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		<title><![CDATA[permies: "permaculture"]]></title>
		<link>http://www.permies.com/forums/forums/f-2/permaculture</link>
		<description><![CDATA[The newest discussed topics in the forum "permaculture"]]></description>
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				<title>Permaculture Planning for adults and children</title>
				<description><![CDATA[My name is Elia, <br /> <br /> I have been studying and experimenting in Permaculture for about a year now. So I decided to get my hands dirty but without any land to use(I live in a studio apartment in NYC) I asked my parents if I could remodel their backyard. I had drawn many ideas and presented them to my parents but was left unsatisfied by their level of involvement. They seemed a little too ambivalent considering I was totally remodeling their back yard. I knew they had specific desires for plants and designs but the sketches I made, no matter how detailed, where missing something.<br /> <br />  I realized it was their actual physical involvement. <br /> <br /> So as a graphic designer I decided to start making a set of circular planning cards. These cards could be used to dynamically arrange landscape designs. On one side would be an illustration of a plant, structure or animal(s) while on the other would be a little information. I also wanted to make it approachable and accessible for children to use. I wanted designing a permaculture landscape to be a fun game for kids too.<br /> <br /> Let me know what you think. You can see more images and details of the design kit on my website <a class="snap_shots" href="http://legendofthegreek.com/permaculture-planning-pack/" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://legendofthegreek.com/permaculture-planning-pack/</a> <br /> I'd love to get some feedback, comments, critiques from the permaculture community so I can further refine the kit. <br /> <br /> Thanks<br /> <img src="http://legendofthegreek.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/newCards006.jpg" border="0" /><br /> <img src="http://legendofthegreek.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/newCards004.jpg" border="0" /><br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, May 16 2012 22:55:19 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[kyklos McCoy]]></author>
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				<title>What about frogs?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Ok I got to ask this.  Do any of you farm frogs?<br /> <br /> I make my living as an artist and one of the reasons I am able to make a decent living doing it is I chose an area that is so specialized that I know almost all of my fellow colleges working in this field and I even trained many of them.  Painter and sculptors are a dime a dozen so the competition in those areas is massive.  There are not that many fine art quality metal engravers out there (although the number is growing).  That smaller competition with a high demand is why I make my living out of my basement and don't starve as an artist. <br /> <br /> I have to think the same principle holds true of farming and livestock.  I would think the guy with a Shitake Mushroom farm would have an edge over the guy trying to sell 1500 acres of soybeans due to the lower competition in the market.  Even though the demand for shitakes isn't as large as the demand for soybeans nationwide, I bet the supply and demand of the market still weighs int eh mushroom farmers favor.   <br /> <br /> Frog legs are fairly popular in many restaurants in my area and I know all those frogs were not gigged during our limited season here.   So I am thinking someone has to be raising things like frogs and other specialized or exotic animals for market.  Any of you tried to intentionally raise bullfrogs as a livestock?  If so are they fairly easy to raise and harvest and bring to market?<br /> <br /> Ray<br />     ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, May 16 2012 22:12:55 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Ray Cover]]></author>
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				<title>Get Help Paying The Bills!</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Get Help Paying The Bills!<br /> <br /> Everyone I know is struggling to make ends meet. Recently I read an article in Good Housekeeping magazine about a company located at <a class="snap_shots" href="http://savingmorethanbefore.com" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://savingmorethanbefore.com</a>  according to the article they develop and offer unique and consumer oriented savings programs. I decided to join based on the magazine's recommendation. Last night I used the grocery part of the program for the first time as I went to do my weekly grocery shopping. Being a creature of habit I always buy the same brands, quantities and items week after week, my friends say I have OCD. Anyway last night was no different. My weekly bill depending on sale items is always between $ 160.00 - $ 180.00. Last night using this program my final bill was $ 42.26. I saved about 75% off what I normally pay. This is a great program!<br /> <br /> Jennifer]]></description>
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				<link>http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14700/130689</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, May 16 2012 17:15:43 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[jen mystra]]></author>
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				<title>Blueberry polyculture</title>
				<description><![CDATA[What plants have folks successfully planted with blueberries in polycultures?<br /> <br /> I have high bush and low bush blueberries, several varieties to yield a succession blueberries through the season.   There is a total of about 9 plants.  We have a 1/4 acre lot.  I plan to group the blueberries near each other for cross pollination.   I plan to space them so they will fill in the spaces between them, and interplant some plants with them now, or perhaps plan to leave them with mature plants interplanted in a polyculture.<br /> <br /> We live in Porltand, Oregon so I plan to give them as much sun as possible, about 8 hours of full sun in summer.<br /> <br /> I have some nice little mats of white clover that I plan to put in between them.<br /> <br /> I appreciate suggestions.  Please be clear if they are based on experience, research, or wild guess.<br /> <br /> Thank you.<br /> <br /> Plant Blessings.<br /> <br /> Pamela Melcher]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, May 16 2012 16:48:15 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Pamela Melcher]]></author>
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				<title>Hawthorn &amp; Serviceberry/Shadbush/Saskatoon hedge</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Time for a barrage of questions about hedges!  I'm considering the option of a hedgerow rather than a tall fence to keep out deer.  Do hawthorns and serviceberries grow well together in a hedge?  How close together should they be spaced for the mature hedge to effectively keep out deer?  How about blackberries and hazels, will they integrate well with the aforementioned hawthorns & serviceberries?  What trees grow well in the midst of hedges?  Wikipedia mentions holly, oak, ash, beech, and willow, what are your opinions?  Any other species guild well in the understory to help fill in any gaps and make effective use of the edge?  Was thinking about white clover for the ground cover, would it struggle with limited sunlight on the east side?  If so, what's another good ground cover to grow flanking the edges?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, May 16 2012 16:35:35 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Patrick Winters]]></author>
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				<title>Learning to read weeds</title>
				<description><![CDATA[I've heard about the ability to see what soil needs from the weeds that come from it, but only in brief segments and paragraphs.  I've never come across anything in-depth about it so I'm starting to look for some more info.<br /> <br /> Most people on this forum have probably heard something along these lines.  The idea is a "weed" will pull up nutrients from below the soil level and bring it to the top so that it can feed the soil.  There are other components of this, but that's one of the basic things I've heard.  <br /> <br /> Does anyone know of any books that are useful for this kind of identifying?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, May 16 2012 15:22:36 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Chris Dean]]></author>
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				<title>resilience science</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Owen Hablutzel will be making several guest appearances in my upcoming podcasts.  He is part of Geoff Lawton's PRI USA team.  Plus a certified Holistic Management educator (Alan Savory's stuff) and keyline guy.<br /> <br /> <object width="640" height="480">
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, May 16 2012 08:32:16 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[paul wheaton]]></author>
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				<title>Who sells &quot;equisetum hyemale&quot; seeds (a type of horsetail)?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[I'm interested in trying what I've read at <a class="snap_shots" href="http://alternativestodentists.com/horsetail" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://alternativestodentists.com/horsetail</a><br /> <br /> Who sells "equisetum hyemale" seeds (a type of horsetail)?<br /> <br /> I've been searching through online seed company catalogs, and I've not found any place that sells seeds of this variety of horsetail.<br /> <br /> I've found some places that sell "equisetum arvense", but alternativestodentists specifically says "equisetum hyemale".]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, May 15 2012 18:43:34 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Fred Walter]]></author>
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				<title>adapting permaculture talk to your culture</title>
				<description><![CDATA[I've just read a post about how different groups have very different takes on permaculture, and I thought a kind of amorphous thread on the 'culture' part of permaculture could be interesting.<br />  I don't have anything specific in mind, but we're from all over the place and I'd be fascinated to try and get a picture of how people adapt the talk (not techniques) side of it to their location. <br /> In NZ, there seems to be general public acceptance that <i>organic</i> is a good idea. Then the debates start on cost, labour, feeding the world, etc, etc :P <br /> Maybe because we're so close to the Australia, the home of permaculture, a reasonable amount of people have at least <i>heard </i> of it, and tend to think of it as a kind of super-organics, rather than a bunch of hippie moon-worshippers. (for the record, I'd call myself a hippie; I'm not hippie-bashing...)<br /> While I'm not interested in tying permaculture to the term 'organic', which I think is pretty bastardised and meaningless, I'm ok if the average punter thinks of me as being simply extra-organic.<br /> Here's a few permacultur-y things that appeal to local culture:<br /> A couple of generation's ago, many people had <i>serious</i>  gardens, and there's heaps of interest again, but without the 24-D's and hours behind a rotary hoe (tiller?)<br /> NZers have a tradition of small-animal keeping. Not so long ago, many urban families had chickens, bees, rabbits...<br /> Rainwater collection and liniting water is considered a pretty 'normal' idea, although most people don't actually do it.<br /> <br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, May 15 2012 18:30:52 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Leila Rich]]></author>
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				<title>Bill Mollison Permaculture Pamphlet - the light finally came on for me!</title>
				<description><![CDATA[I am reading Bill Mollisons Pamphlet IX, Permaculture Techniques for<b> THE THIRD TIME</b>.<br /> <br /> It takes me a while to ‘get it’ sometimes.  Now I am really getting it.  Starting when I get home tomorrow I will immediately start implementing every single thing that is on the first four pages.<br /> <br /> I have gone through and highlighted areas that I think are important points; I will upload this document later.   These pamphlets are all available for sharing and reproduction is encouraged.  <br /> <br /> I am just so excited about it because I have read this stuff before and the light didn’t really come on until now.  So starting at daylight it will be sleeves rolled up and get moving!<br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, May 15 2012 17:42:25 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Jeanine Gurley]]></author>
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				<title>getting rid of wild chervil</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Anyone here have any success getting rid of wild chervil? (For those who don't know, wild chervil is an invasive species that has no redeeming value that I know of, that nothing seems to kill).<br /> <br /> Is any of the various types of comfrey invasive enough to out-compete wild chervil? At least my free range chickens would enjoy the comfrey...]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, May 15 2012 15:57:52 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Fred Walter]]></author>
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				<title>Maybe what I need is to pay a permaculture design expert.  </title>
				<description><![CDATA[(And check my spelling before I post)<br /> <br /> How much would this cost, and where do I find someone?]]></description>
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				<link>http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14671/130445</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, May 15 2012 11:58:31 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Matu Collins]]></author>
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				<title>Maybe what I need is to pay a permaculture design expert.  </title>
				<description><![CDATA[How much would this cost, and where do I find someone?]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14668/130434</guid>
				<link>http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14668/130434</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, May 15 2012 11:29:16 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Matu Collins]]></author>
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				<title>Using goats to treat seeds</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Okay, I just got some goats for brush clearing (never pay for something that an animal will do for free) and we enjoy the milk / cheese.  Well, being slightly nuts, I came up with an idea that should work really well. We grow Acacia Mangium, among other trees, but Acacia is great where nothing else seems to thrive, and then you can plant between it for a more valuable wood. Acacia though is very good wood. Anyway, the seeds of the Acacia won't sprout without treatment, which is boiling water, taking it off heat, then dump the seeds in it and let sit 24 hours. <br /> <br /> But I noticed when I had sheep that if the sheep ate around the acacia, the seeds would sprout (then then the sheep would eat the seedlings). So, daily, while milking we mix some Acacia seeds in with the little bit of feed we give them so that they will behave while milking. Then we gather up their "pellets". Instant seed balls.<br /> <br /> Once I have a decent sack, I have an area ready to plant in Acacia. I'll let you know how it works.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, May 15 2012 04:25:07 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Fred Morgan]]></author>
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				<title>Apple tree help</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Hey everyone,<br /> <br /> I have these little orange spots on my apple tree leaves. What is it?  Is it something to worry about?  If so how do I correct it? <br /> <br /> <img src="http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll134/RayCover/appleleaves.jpg" border="0" />]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Mon, May 14 2012 19:02:03 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Ray Cover]]></author>
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				<title>illustrated audio tour of urban farm in eastern Kansas</title>
				<description><![CDATA[For International Permaculture Day last week, my wife and I hosted a tour of our urban farm in Emporia, KS.  I recorded audio of the tour, edited it down to an hour, and illustrated it with dozens of photos.  You can listen to the tour and watch the slideshow on your computer, phone, or tablet, or download the audio and listen to it at your convenience.  Enjoy!<br /> <br /> <a class="snap_shots" href="http://interdependentweb.com/content/2012_tour" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://interdependentweb.com/content/2012_tour</a>]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Mon, May 14 2012 13:54:06 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Ben Stallings]]></author>
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				<title>Owl Decoys... do they work?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Hey all,<br /> <br /> I'm looking for an alternative to bird netting to keep the birds (and other pest) out of my garden and berry bushes.<br /> <br /> I have seen all kinds of owl decoys and supposedly if you move them from one post to another a couple times a week they work.  Have any of you tried these? If so do they work to keep birds and rabbits away?<br /> <br /> Ray]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sun, May 13 2012 18:46:06 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Ray Cover]]></author>
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				<title>Persimmon pollination question</title>
				<description><![CDATA[I planted one Japanese Persimmon, Diospyros kaki, Fuyu cultivar.  I intentionally planted only one because I read that if it is by itself, it will produce seedless fruit.  We have many American persimmons (Diospyros virginiana) on and around our property.  So here's my question - can the American persimmon cross pollinate Japanese persimmon?  If so, I'll have seeds anyway in which case I'll go ahead and plant a few more Japanese persimmons.  But if not, I'll stick with one tree and have seedless fruit.  Anybody know?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sun, May 13 2012 17:26:02 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Nick Garbarino]]></author>
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				<title>Special considerations for high water table / flood zone areas?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[I moved in fall of 2010 and now live in a flood zone / high water table area. The yard is mostly flat except for a very slight hill in the middle of the yard. With a very heavy rain, it has the potential to flood and then stay saturated for weeks at a time. I attached a picture of a flood in Feb 2011. The water stood about 8 inches high and it took 3-4 weeks for it to drain away. We had ducks move in during that time! <br /> <br /> Our first reaction to this flood was that all that standing water was a bad thing and we needed to make it go away. We hand dug a small trench (nothing fancy) to allow the water to drain away faster. Now we get puddles that dry up in 3-4 days in the outskirts of the lawn (all 4 sides, with the center of the yard still being the highest and now hosting a raised vegetable garden). Even a small amount of rain causes the yard to be quite soggy and muddy, even if you can't see obvious standing water. <br /> <br /> This was all pre-permaculture discovery. Now, I've been watching some permaculture videos on youtube, especially Geoff Lawton's work, and I'm wondering if there's a more reasonable compromise for an area at risk of this flooding. The water soaks into the ground eventually, just very slowly. Am I messing with the water system too much by draining it away with a trench? <br /> <br /> The flooding also renders half the yard unusable / unplantable (as far as I know) because I can't find any plants that can stand being flooded for one month out of the year, and then experience dry conditions later in the summer. I do not yet have rain barrels in place but I wonder how much they would decrease the flood risk? Swales seem to be for slopes, not for flat land, but can swales be used in this kind of situation?<br /> <br /> It now seems ludicrous that I'm sending the water back to the city when, if I could hang onto it somehow, I'd be able to use it to water my veggies. Any suggestions? Thanks.<br /> <br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sun, May 13 2012 11:13:10 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Kylie Harper]]></author>
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				<title>Mini swale?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[My house is up on a little hill, several feet above street level.  The front (south side) slopes fairly gently to the street, and the east side has a retaining wall between the house and driveway, but the north and west sides are pretty steep, 45 degrees or more.  The north side I'm leaving alone for now because it's covered in raspberries, but I'm wondering if I could dig a little swale on the west side.  It's not really a big enough space for the size swales I've read about, but I'm thinking I could dig a trench, maybe a foot wide, along the contour, pack it with straw and use it as a path, and in doing so increase the water available to the plants I'm putting below it.<br /> Thoughts?<br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sun, May 13 2012 09:55:35 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Thea Olsen]]></author>
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				<title>Atriplex halimus</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Has anyone grown this?  if so, what is your experience with it?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, May 12 2012 21:59:44 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Steve Flanagan]]></author>
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				<title>How far from established tree do I plant hardy kiwi? Other kiwi questions.</title>
				<description><![CDATA[These may have been answered;  if so, I apologize for redundency.  I did a search for hardy kiwi and got 130 threads, and decided to ask directly rather than plow through all of that.<br /> <br /> There is a well established tree to which I am not attached which would be a great place to support hardy kiwi.  This tree is about 20 feet tall.<br /> <br /> How far from the trunk should I plant the kiwi?<br /> <br /> How far away can a male kiwi be from the female?  Can they both be growing up the same tree?<br /> <br /> Thank you.<br /> <br /> Happiness, Health, Peace and Abundance for All!<br /> <br /> Many Thanks and Many Blessings,<br /> Pamela]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, May 12 2012 13:44:46 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Pamela Melcher]]></author>
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				<title>Food Forest Help needed. NE Georgia. </title>
				<description><![CDATA[I'm doing some research for my Mother. She is ready to start building her food forest, but we do have some concerns. <br /> <br /> I'm around zone 7 in North East Georgia. The soil is red clay, I don't know if I should refer to it as soil? <br /> It is hard packed. We are thinking of starting Hugelkulture beds. Any ideas on where to get wood? <br /> There are only 6 trees on her property. She has 1 acre. <br /> <br /> Also, we are trying to figure out what to plant. How do we get started? <br /> <br /> I am finding it very difficult to find information. What is a person to do without knowing to begin with?<br /> <br /> If you have any specific ideas or advice that would be wonderful. I'm also interested in resources to research this information. <br /> <br /> Also, if you need any other specific information about our situation to help, just ask. I don't know what else to include?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, May 12 2012 08:50:59 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Allibeth Cohen]]></author>
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				<title>Durokon tool quality</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Durokon.com offers a wide selection of tools that I would like. Not to mention all of the uncommon tools you don't typically find in your local hardware store. There prices are incredibly low, which leads me to wonder a couple of thoughts.<br /> <br /> Are these tools actually quality like durokon guarantees?<br /> <br /> Where in the world are these tools made? <br /> <br /> I actually feel guilty about purchasing tools this cheap. They have some sickles/ kamas for less than $2. How could you not feel guilty? I can only imagine what the workers were paid throughout every process of these tools (harvesting the materials, transporting, forging the metal, building the tool, stocking, transporting, supplying, etc).<br /> <br /> I searched online for reviews and only found two reviews that were quite poor. The reason seems more like the service than the actual tools. <br /> <br /> Anyone have any reviews on the tools themselves?<br /> <br /> Thanks everyone,<br /> J]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, May 11 2012 23:49:46 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Jason Long]]></author>
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				<title>Peas with flowers but no sign of pods</title>
				<description><![CDATA[This is my first year growing peas, and I planted them in a fairly fresh (aged maybe 3 weeks) sheet mulch bed in a hoop house. They've been flowering for over a week now and there is absolutely no sign of a pea pod growing anywhere. The plants are huge and look really healthy. Any ideas? <br /> <br /> Oddly enough, in the very same bed, I have a broccoli plant that is also huge and healthy with no broccoli head. <br /> <br /> The beets are extremely happy in this bed, as is the spinach.  I'm guessing I'm not going to get any pea pods and that I have a serious nutrient imbalance. Would like to know so I don't repeat this.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, May 11 2012 12:37:58 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[mud bailey]]></author>
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				<title>Sepp Holzer's &quot;shock method&quot; of transplaning fruit trees?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Any experience with this?  <br /> I've recently moved from the house we were sharing with my in-laws for 4 1/2 years, and want to move my peach trees here, but they're a bit big.  They just started bearing fruit last year.  One is about 4' tall, and the other is maybe 6'.  I was thinking the idea of transplanting them was a lost cause until I was rereading Sepp Holzer's Permaculture and came across his advice for moving fruit trees.  I'm wondering if I could do that and how much of the root system I'd need to dig up.<br /> Now that we've moved out, my in-laws are going to get rid of my garden and return it to lawn.  They may keep the fruit trees, but then their lawn care company will girdle them with their weed-whackers.  My plum tree already died because of that.  <br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, May 10 2012 19:57:46 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Thea Olsen]]></author>
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				<title>Roselle, true or false?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[I have converted some of the front lawn to mulched bed, now I need to plant something ornamental, preferably edible, and evergreen in Zone 9A and I am leaning toward cranberry hibiscus and day lillies, the latter of which of course would not be evergreen.  Turns out true roselle (Hibiscus sabdariffa) and false roselle (Hibiscus acetosella) are both called "cranberry hibiscus".  Well my understanding of these two is very tenuous, but here it is:  Could it be that true roselle is the better of the two for culinary purposes but false roselle is considered by most to be more ornamental, while also being edible?  Please, anyone who knows anything about either of these, share what you know and let me know which one you would choose.  Or would you use both?  Our bed is big enough for 5-7 full grown hibiscus say about 6 ft x 6 ft.  I bet the answer is going to be, as usual, more complicated because each one has different varieties and so forth and so on.  Oh well, I asked for it.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, May 10 2012 18:49:17 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Nick Garbarino]]></author>
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				<title>Sunlight and &quot;full sun&quot; in a food forest</title>
				<description><![CDATA[I'm slowly, but surely, turning my back yard into a food forest. I've run into trouble, though, with shading. Much of my 1/4 acre is shaded by much larger trees to the south and west. Consequently, most or all of my area is shaded, even more so in the winter when the sun's path is farther to the south. I know in nature, there are stories or layers of a forest, but I'm having trouble recreating that in my yard. For example, 7/10 of my blueberry plants died from too much shade. I moved the remaining three into full sun and they are growing sure and strong.<br /> <br /> How does one do "close plantings" of various sized plants and trees and still ensure that each gets enough sun?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, May 10 2012 17:35:22 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Dan Jones]]></author>
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				<title>Gotu Kola?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Is anyone growing Gotu Kola outside?  if so, how?  Where? and what growing zone are you in?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, May 10 2012 14:12:20 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Steve Flanagan]]></author>
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				<title>Chickens + Hugelkultur</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Brand new to the forum, and brand new to permaculture.  :)  Am closing on 10 acres at the end of this month, and have been digesting books and videos on permaculture design for the last few months.<br /> <br /> I like the idea of building multiple connected keyhole beds, that are built up as hugelkulturs.  I also want free range chickens for eggs/meat/manure.  I can't figure out how these two things can work together.<br /> <br /> I would like to have the chickens do their work in certain beds, but will they destroy the hugelkulturs?  Will they climb up them?  <br /> <br /> Anyone have any design ideas that would work well for chickens + hugelkulturs?  I live in Indianapolis, IN.<br /> <br /> Thanks!<br /> <br /> Branch]]></description>
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				<link>http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14580/129654</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, May 10 2012 12:35:42 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Branch Gordon]]></author>
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				<title>Key Hole Huglekultur with a Cold Trap and Herb Spiral Center ;-)</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Hey Guys/Gals<br /> <br />  I hope this is where I'm supposed to post this. Anyways... This is a link to my pics and 2 videos of the huglekultur me and a friend built this winter. I would love any feedback/critiques that any of you might have!!!<br /> <br /> <a class="snap_shots" href="http://apporganics.com/blog/" target="_new" rel="nofollow">my blog</a><br /> <br /> <br /> thanks!  ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, May 10 2012 10:52:00 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Jack Taylor]]></author>
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				<title>advice for 10+ acres to be left alone for a year?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Finally found some land to buy and get started realizing our market gardening and permaculture plans/dreams and … work is taking me to the other side of the country for most of a year.<br /> <br /> So now I wonder what to do. <br /> <br /> The land is in zone 4, a total of 18 acres, of which about 10 are usable. (Most of the rest is wetlands and swampy riparian area -- better left alone as a dedicated mosquito ranch; we also need to leave space for the future domicile etc.) <br /> <br /> The soil is sandy and long ago was farmed. The place has been left alone for the last thirty years or so, according to the neighbor, and is overgrown with long grass, brush, and brambles, with quite a few small trees (birch, Norway pine, some willow). This is not a place that would be amenable to cutting sod. <br /> <br /> Our long term plans are still to set up large gardens, and of course to plant fruit and nut trees. But I don’t know what to do this year. We only just bought the property and it’s too late to get and plant trees, and plus we’ll be leaving in late June and not around to irrigate all summer anyway.<br /> <br /> Planting crops etc. happens in May around here, so that’s still possible. <br /> <br /> Do folks think we should do some clearing of the brush now and plant some cover crops? Maybe even do some serious tilling to help them get started? Or would it be better to just wait and leave it be until we’re going to be around to take care of things? <br /> <br /> If we put anything in, it’s going to have some tough competition from the brushy plants. I was thinking maybe buckwheat, sunchokes, and clover. And maybe some patches of cosmos (for my wife) and black-eyed susan (for me), as both will re-seed themselves around here.<br /> <br /> Any other and maybe better suggestions? ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, May 10 2012 08:13:22 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[chip sanft]]></author>
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				<title>Latest stage succession.</title>
				<description><![CDATA[What is the value of it? I admit I'm new to all of this but it just seems like a lot of shade to me.<br /> ]]></description>
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				<link>http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14565/129541</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, May 9 2012 20:34:34 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Kevin MacBearach]]></author>
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				<title>Getting nuts - squirrels do, I don't. Solutions?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[I've got hazels and filberts (one might be a "filazel") that are probably teenagers now. They make nuts. I've never gotten one - the squirrels make off with them all, generally when they are still quite green.<br /> <br /> I'm having difficulty envisioning what might keep squirrels off, other than a huge and expensive metal cage all around and over the trees/bushes. I don't think I'm going there.<br /> <br /> I already have great horned owls and red-tailed hawks working the area, and I'm rooting for them (since I gave up on chickens, at least for now - having chickens made a change in how I felt about seeing the hawks hanging around, especially since they did poof several birds, and did not have the good taste to stick to the extra roosters when doing so), but really, nothing much dents the squirrel population.<br /> <br /> Meanwhile, butternuts of the same vintage are proving to be a difficult tree to keep alive, though resprouting from the roots has happened a few times. I think I've read of grafting them onto black walnut roots, and I begin to see why you might want to. I'm rather wishing I'd just planted black walnuts at the time. The butternuts have never gotten themselves sorted out far enough to make nuts for anyone to get.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, May 9 2012 20:15:26 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[L. Jones]]></author>
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				<title>bindweed and quackgrass holding me back</title>
				<description><![CDATA[I am slowly trying to convert my farm to a permaculture food forest.  In the orchard and berry patches things are going well, but in the field... I am at a bit of a loss.  The previous use of the land for an intensive organic farm run by a dear friend followed by a couple of years where we were busy getting married and then having twins and growing disillusioned with conventional organic farming (and mowing the thing twice a summer) have brought to light some problems that have been there for a while.  Bindweed and quackgrass are rampant.  I want very much to plant lovely fruit tree guilds and  hugelkultur my heart out, but I am daunted by the speed at which the weeds, especially the bindweed, envelop everything.  <br /> <br /> I have come up with a plan to plant mounds of cucurbita maxima, mainly long island cheese, along with a few others and sunflowers to shade out the bindweed.  Broadcast clover has helped a bit, but I really am intimidated by the fragile dep roots, abundant flowers dropping abundant long-lived seeds, and agressive growing habits.  Bindweed mites are not available in my state.  <br /> <br /> Does anyone have any experience with bindweed abatement?  I love many weeds for many reasons, but cannot find much use for this one.  Any advice will be most welcome.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, May 9 2012 19:38:05 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Matu Collins]]></author>
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				<title>Interview with Maddy Harland of Permaculture Magazine</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Paul's <a class="snap_shots" href="http://www.richsoil.com/permaculture/1758-154-maddy-harland-books/" target="_new" >latest podcast</a> - the blurb says...<br /> <br /> Paul Wheaton and Maddy Harland of Permaculture Magazine talk about how many people they reach. They talk about Skeeter, aka Michael Pilarski. Maddy shares about a digital Permaculture Magazine app on iPads. They talk about printing on paper. Maddy talks about what will be in the next issue. They compare Permaculture Magazine to Permaculture Activist Magazine. Maddy has three new books: Designing Ecological Habitat: Creating a Sense of Place, Permaculture Design Step by Step Guide, and People in Permaculture Caring and Designing for Ourselves, Each Other, and the Planet. They talk about the permaculture concept of fair share, and the three permaculture ethics. Maddy shares about restoring an old Navy base into an educational center for permaculture. They are in the process of translating another Sepp Holzer book on water. They talk a bit about spirituality, in particular Sepp Holzer‘s spirituality. They talk about DVDs put out, including Natural Swimming Pools and Ben Law‘s Roundwood Timber Framing.<br /> <br /> And just to annoy Paul, I wanna say that I've had a sneak preview of the new Sepp Book because the German version is already available and I had a good peek through one in Tamera.  Loads of colour photos, and right up there on top of my Christmas list!<br /> <br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, May 9 2012 14:37:17 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Burra Maluca]]></author>
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				<title>Developing guilds- using what is on hand</title>
				<description><![CDATA[I am working on developing guilds around the existing apple trees on our property, as well as the newly planted bushes and trees.  Obviously the biggest obstacle for most of us is cost- While I think every penny I spend on moving towards permaculture is money well spent, I still have to have money to feed my family and not piss off my husband too much:)  <br /> <br /> So guilding and sheet mulching around the trees has been put off while I work on my zone one (as I should...), but I have been thinking and observing and have noticed a few things.  We have two big clumps of lilies growing on the edge of our property.  From what I have gathered from neighbors the previous owners used to mow down there, then they stopped and let it get all wild, and we are just now (well, my husband is, if it were up to me we would have left it as our zone 5- he did leave part, just not as much as I would have liked...) getting around to reclaiming it, which is how we discovered these lilies (we did know there was something orange blooming down there last summer, but didn't know what it was until my MIL identified it for me).  We also have clumps of old fashioned iris, also from the previous owner.  There are also lots of wild plants that I would like to move and/or encourage, like wild strawberries, violets, and blackberries.<br /> <br /> So my question is, is there value in taking these resources I have on hand and making up the good part of most of my guilds with them?  Like could I dig up the lilies and use them where daffodils would normally go in an apple guild?  I also am working on a walnut guild, and I've heard wild strawberry makes good ground cover.  The mix is lacking in N fixers, but we also have lots of clover growing mixed in with the grass, and I could add some others.<br /> <br /> Any advice or feedback?  Would I be missing out on certain benefits if I do this?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, May 9 2012 10:10:06 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Brandis Roush]]></author>
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				<title>Broken Glass and Waste Plastics in a Permaculture System</title>
				<description><![CDATA[What can you do with broken glass and waste plastics in a permaculture system? I have read about using glass as decoration and whole plastic bottles, etc. as building materials. But what other things? Are they good wall fillers? Can you ground up the glass smaller? I heard on Paul's podcast about how chickens like broken windshields.<br /> <br /> I broke a bottle the other day and I threw it in the recycling, but I couldn't think of another use for it. I am also in an urban environment. And it was also the bottom of the glass container that I broke. I thought about collecting it up into a metal bucket, but then what do you do with glass scraps?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, May 9 2012 07:58:24 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Lee Morgan]]></author>
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				<title>Free Reading Material For PDC - great for People New to Permaculture</title>
				<description><![CDATA[The permaculture design institute has TONS of free reading material for those of you who are new to Permaculture.  I'm still new, only been at this for a year.  At the bottom of the page of this link there are a few Bill Mollison pamphlets that I have already read and am going to re-read.  His writing can be a bit difficult to get through but there are some real nuggets of information in there - that's why I'm re-reading them.  I may have missed something the first time.<br /> <br /> I have already given up taking a PDC on the east coast that deals with my climate - all of the instructors that I want to take from are on the west coast.  So I have been looking a lot at Scott Pittman.  I have noticed that he posts a lot of reading material that he wants you to have read before you come to class.  I have already gotten quite a lot out of reading these 'freebies'.<br /> <br /> Here is a link <a class="snap_shots" href="http://www.permaculture.org/nm/index.php/site/class-8/" target="_new" >Reading Materials</a><br /> <br /> I downloaded most of it to my laptop to read while waiting for appointments, lag time at work, or while hubby is watching TV.  ( I just put on my headphones to drown out the TV)]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, May 9 2012 05:23:30 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Jeanine Gurley]]></author>
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				<title>converting orchard to food forest</title>
				<description><![CDATA[We planted trees 3 years ago before we knew about permaculture. Also We have freinds who have 60 acre well established peach and apple orchard farmed <br /> coomercially for 2 generations and are making attempts at switching to organic. Any information sources for converting standing areas to permaculture You all could steer me to? Thank You]]></description>
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				<link>http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14544/129412</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, May 9 2012 04:39:32 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[wayne stephen]]></author>
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				<title>Failed Jerusalem Artichokes</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Dammit, I thought these sunchoke things were invincible, invasive, a nuisance. I was looking forward to all of that. I planted about 30m, 4 to a metre (same in yards roughly) of them last Autumn and I've been waiting for my lovely Summer fence to start sprouting and providing bee food. How many have come up? THREE  :x  Anyone got any ideas what might have gone wrong?]]></description>
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				<link>http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14542/129404</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, May 9 2012 03:16:39 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Alison Freeth-Thomas]]></author>
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				<title>desert plant history and tastes</title>
				<description><![CDATA[from the founder of Native Seed/search<br /> <br /> <a class="snap_shots" href="http://www.nativeseeds.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=808" target="_blank" >http://www.nativeseeds.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=808</a>]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14532/129346</guid>
				<link>http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14532/129346</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, May 8 2012 19:21:33 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Morgan Morrigan]]></author>
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				<title>(IM)PERMANENCE Film Episode 1 online!</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Hi All,<br /> <br /> The first episode of our global family Permaculture adventure is here <a class="snap_shots" href="http://www.impermanencefilm.org/blog.html" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://www.impermanencefilm.org/blog.html</a><br /> <br /> Please let us know what you think, and help spread via your networks if you enjoy it!<br /> <br /> For the Earth!<br /> <br /> Richard]]></description>
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				<link>http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14518/129219</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, May 8 2012 06:07:28 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Richard Perkins]]></author>
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				<title>Patterning my food forest</title>
				<description><![CDATA[I'd like to explane what patterns I'm using designing my food forest, and would appreciate any comment. My land Is already devided into logical parts, I'll skip that part, and try to draw only patterns itself.<br /> <br /> I started with planting tall tree layer. Distance between them is (7m) 23 ft, and they will be pruned to fit in that space, and to let enough light to lower layers. And they are in triangular pattern:<br /> <img src="http://upload.slike.com/slike/IOhTs.png" border="0" /><br /> <br /> I devided tall trees into some groups, mostly based on the size and growt habit, and genus also. I spread each group evenly across the garden so that I have apple tree in all parts of the garden, plum near every apple, cherry near every apple and plum etc. <br /> <img src="http://upload.slike.com/slike/r04Pk.png" border="0" /><br /> <br /> Next I planted tall n-fixers. 3 n-fixers around each fruit tree, or 3 fruit trees around every n-fixer :) They are here only temporarily, as a supporter for my young food forest, and will be cut down after several years. Maybe they will be used as coppice, but probably will be replaced with short trees.<br /> <img src="http://upload.slike.com/slike/BSFz.png" border="0" /><br /> <br /> Empty spaces will be filled with short trees. I consider short tree every fruit tree that I can pick from the ground or using small ledder, but at the same time the one that I can stand under it. The ones I can not stand under it, I consider shrubs. So, after filling empty spaces and replacing tall n-fixers with short trees, I have pattern like this:<br /> <img src="http://upload.slike.com/slike/75Wmt.png" border="0" /><br /> <br /> Since a lot of short trees can be supporting ones, I decided 1/2 of short trees will be supporting trees like carragana (n-fixer), mulberry and elderberry (dynamic accumulators). Hope you still see triangles in lower image, I found out that as long I stay with triangles, each tall tree will get one carragana, one mulberry and one elderberry, and 3 fruiting trees around it, without any mistake.<br /> <img src="http://upload.slike.com/slike/fpmVe.png" border="0" /> <br /> <br /> Now I started to draw paths. I used leaves veins only as an idea. I can not just copy that pattern since I'm not water drop that needs to be delivered to one point of my garden. I want to walk through my garden, give a tour to my friends, when I'm picking elderberry flowers I want paths that are connecting them in time saving pattern, but also I don't want to use all available area for pathways. I drew some pattern like this, It has one big "road" running through the center of garden, big enough for a couple of people to take a walk without forming a caterpillar. Then, since terrain is sloped, I have main "branches" following contour lines. Size would be just enough that I can pass with a wheelbarrow without any problem. And then small branches connecting main branches, maybe just enough for a person to walk through without scraching against shrubs.<br /> <img src="http://upload.slike.com/slike/DSmy.png" border="0" /><br /> <br /> Then I would add shrub layer, without any plan yet, and a keyhole paths for servicing this shrubs, but I expect terrain itself will show me how to handle this once I come to that point. <br /> <br /> What you think? This is just a pattern, this is not a plan of my garden (it is much bigger) but I found out that similar pattern can be applied to any size of garden, with some individualization, like ponds, playground, bigger spacing between trees etc.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, May 8 2012 04:01:50 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Milan Broz]]></author>
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				<title>Feedback and Ideas for my Garden</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Here is the lowdown on my garden...  I live in the central California foothills at about 2600 Feet in USDA zone 9a, bordering 8b.  My Property is on five and a half acres and is mostly sloped, facing west and sometimes south west.  When we moved in last July there were only two landscape plants planted on the property, Albizia and a privit.<br /> <br /> Here are the natives on my property:<br /> California Buckeye<br /> California Bay Laurel<br /> Manzanita<br /> Live oak<br /> White oak<br /> Elderberry<br /> A few different Ceanothus species<br /> Blue Dicks<br /> Sierra Gooseberry<br /> Miners lettuce<br /> Chickweed<br /> Poison Oak<br /> <br /> Since I moved I built a little 20 by 30 foot garden area with three 4 by 8 raised beds on the south side of my house.  Two of my raised beds are for annual crops.  <br /> In the other raised bed I planted:<br /> Three Artichoke<br /> Three Tree Kale<br /> Chives<br /> Geranium<br /> Ground Plum<br /> Sea Kale<br /> <br /> Around the edge of the Garden I've planted:<br /> 4 Chilean Guava<br /> 1 Red Currant<br /> 2 Golden Currants<br /> Many Strawberries<br /> 3 Maypop<br /> 1 three leaf Akebia<br /> 1 five leaf Akebia<br /> 2 Serviceberries<br /> 2 Aronia<br /> 3 Oregon Grape<br /> 5 Raspberries<br /> 2 Grape<br /> 1 Mission Fig<br /> 6 Goji (wolf) Berries<br /> Yarrow<br /> Alyssum<br /> 2 Day Lillies<br /> 3 Society Garlic<br /> 3 Asparagus<br /> 1 Rhubarb<br /> 1 Mexican Tarragon<br /> 1 Oregano<br /> 1 White Sage<br /> 2 Lavender<br /> 1 Muscadine Grape<br /> 1 Issai hardy Kiwi<br /> 1 eastern prince Schisandra vine<br /> <br /> On the West Side of the House I Planted:<br /> 1 kadota Fig<br /> 5 Pineapple Guava<br /> 5 Greek Myrtle<br /> 1 Kumquat<br /> 1 Chaste Tree<br /> 6 Lavender<br /> 1 Rosemary<br /> 2 Coprosma<br /> 1 Ice Cream Banana<br /> 3 Sourberries (Rhus trilobata)<br /> 3 Strawberry Trees (Arbutus unedo)<br /> 2 purple sage<br /> 2 Black Hawthorn<br /> 1 White Mulberry<br /> <br /> On the North Side:<br /> 2 Sweet Pomegranates <br /> 2 Rosemary<br /> 4 Black Satin Gooseberries<br /> <br /> On the East Side:<br /> 3 Goumis<br /> 1 Santa Rosa Plum<br /> 1 Che Fruit<br /> 1 Jujube<br /> 1 Persimmon<br /> 1 Trifoliate Orange (poncirus)<br /> 2 Butterfly Bush<br /> 2 Lemon Verbena<br /> 4 black satin blackberries<br /> <br /> In a shady area south of my home:<br /> 4 Pawpaws<br /> 4 May apples<br /> 4 Partridge Berries<br /> <br /> North of my Home going to my well:<br /> 2 Japanese Quince<br /> 2 Yellowhorn<br /> 2 Seaberries<br /> <br /> On the side of my Driveway:<br /> 3 Redbuds<br /> some various opuntia<br /> 3 Cleveland sage<br /> 1 Russian Sage<br /> <br /> On the west facing slope east of my parking area:<br /> 1 Nopale Opuntia<br /> 1 Lemon Verbena<br /> 1 Beautyberry<br /> 1 Jelly Palm<br /> 1 Loquat<br /> <br /> <br /> Now I have an area below my parking area, to the west of it, that I want to clear and put in a food forest garden.  The area is probably 50 by 200 Feet.  The north end has three massive white oaks.  Otherwise there is poison oak and live oaks occupying the area.  I am focusing on growing edibles and higher end medicinals.  I am up to experimenting and trying new things.  I am striving to do everything organic.  I am open to any feedback and ideas.  I hope that I was detailed enough.  Thank you for reading this and replying.<br /> <br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Mon, May 7 2012 23:11:14 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Steve Flanagan]]></author>
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				<title>Honeyberry</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ I've planted about 20 blueberries on the property and added honeyberries a couple of years ago they really started producing last year. The blueberries are just beggining to bud but the honeyberries, even with the occasional dips we still have down into the freezing range, are not only in full leaf but are blosssomed out, other than rhubarb this has to be one of my hardiest plants.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Mon, May 7 2012 21:43:38 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Robert Ray]]></author>
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				<title>New Food Forest plant list for USDA Hardiness Zones 8-10</title>
				<description><![CDATA[The plant list for our food forest was posted 4 days ago, and so far it has been downloaded 33 times.  Since there appears to be some interest, I have posted our newest version, which now includes fields for water, sun, pH, and root structure.  The selection of plants has also been improved, with many additions and a few deletions.  This list is particularly designed for Zone 9A, where the soil is sandy, dry, and acidic, however many of the plant selections could work in other zones, particularly zones 8 and 10.<br /> <br /> There are many other plants that could be grown in our area, but which I left off for various reasons, especially if I suspect those species would need baby sitting in order to flourish here in central Florida.  We are willing to use some well water for the critical and highly prized members of the food forest, such as citrus and blueberries for example, but we are trying to design a fairly drought tolerant community overall.  So, there are many sub-tropical species that could grow here, but we're leaving them out because they're too thirsty.<br /> <br /> I want to encourage any feedback that would improve this list, such as corrections, additional plants, removal of plants, etc.  I could use all the help I can get.  So, for those of you who downloaded the old list, throw it away and use this one instead.  It's a lot better list.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Mon, May 7 2012 19:45:35 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Nick Garbarino]]></author>
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				<title>Multi Grafted Fruit Trees</title>
				<description><![CDATA[I came across some apple trees at Canadian Tire that have 4 different kinds of apples grafted together. I was wondering if anyone has seen or has experience with these. I want to dedicate about 1/2 acre to fruit production and think these would really give me more diversity if they actually produce. Ideas? ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Mon, May 7 2012 18:18:26 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[John Gratrick]]></author>
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				<title>Sandhill plums</title>
				<description><![CDATA[We are just starting out and there are a lot of wild sand plums on the sides of the roads around here. Would like to plant some in our yard as a break between use and the road but have no idea how to go about it and when would be the best time to do it.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Mon, May 7 2012 17:22:21 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Richard Hoffman]]></author>
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				<title>Trying to save a tree in my orchard</title>
				<description><![CDATA[In my quest to make my new life in the country I planted a small orchard.  I did this before I knew much what permaculture was.  Now, I'm attempting to add more biodiversity to the orchard.  It's a fun process.  In this video you can see one tree that I'm trying to fix after a light wind storm.<br /> <br /> <a class="snap_shots" href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cFIGzQqYkGg" target="_blank" >http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cFIGzQqYkGg</a><br /> <br /> Here's the original video of me planting the orchard:<br /> <br /> <a class="snap_shots" href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6abAOF9PW6g" target="_blank" >http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6abAOF9PW6g</a>]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Mon, May 7 2012 14:24:30 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Blake Kirby]]></author>
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				<title>Zinc deficiencies in desert</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Was reading a study last night that all the desert soils are naturally low in nitrogen, about 30:1 carbon/nitrogen.<br /> The low nitrogen content helps keep out invasives that aren't desert adapted.<br /> <br /> What really stood out tho, was the levels of zinc deficiency. From .5 to 1.5 ppm, where a farming soil might have 30-80 ppm.<br /> <br /> This affected the actual nitrogen fixing abilities of these desert plants, because the zinc is required for mycorhizal and bacterial cell wall production. <br /> Plants tend to be zinc accumulators, and since there is very little duff on desert ground, very little gets redeposited in the soils.<br /> Might also be a reason the animals pies are such good breeding beds, it's the additional zinc, and myco !<br /> <br /> If you are having trouble getting your desert plants to thrive , give em a zap of zinc, then a shot of innoculant, might really make a difference.<br /> I just ordered some good looking broad spectrum innoculant, but now i will try and get a zinc booster first. The micro-nutrient sprays may not be enough.<br /> <br /> I just saw how getting plants to increase their magnesium uptake can make for healthier foods, now zinc. should i just plant a multivitamin with each seed?<br /> We don't have any plantable biomass here, that does not re-sprout (vinca), is alleopath (tree of heaven), or seriously invasive (horehound/mint)<br /> <br /> <br /> This stuff is spendy, but looks like the best i have found, for everything but trees. See what they say about some of the strains.<br /> <br /> <a class="snap_shots" href="http://www.beneficialbiologics.com/index.php?optio...5&aff_id=16&vmcchk=1&Itemid=22" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://www.beneficialbiologics.com/index.php?optio...5&aff_id=16&vmcchk=1&Itemid=22</a><br /> <br /> anybody know of anything else this broad spectrum?<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Mon, May 7 2012 12:45:49 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Morgan Morrigan]]></author>
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				<title>Texas Cedar Elm guilds</title>
				<description><![CDATA[I'm beginning to design some guilds for planting around our native Cedar Elms  <i>Ulmus crassifolia</i> in an area behind the house where the Live Oaks are dying of oak wilt.  I'd like to replace the oaks with an understory of edible plants.  Thanks to Chris Cromeens, who posted a link to the Texas Plant Information Database  <a class="snap_shots" href="http://tpid.tpwd.state.tx.us/index.asp" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://tpid.tpwd.state.tx.us/index.asp</a>  I can look up Cedar Elm and see what species grow in association with it.  Obvious edible plants from the list are Elderberry, Common Persimmon, Texas Persimmon, Plum, Black Cherry and Blackberry.  For my first guild I'm thinking of using Asian Persimmon in place of the native persimmons, because it does well in Texas and is an attractive small tree.  For the shrub layer I want to use Elderberry and Blackberry cultivars.  Still pondering the herbaceous, vine, groundcover, and root layers.  Not sure if to concentrate on natives, or do a mix of natives and others.  In either case, I want to have several edible species.<br /> <br /> This guild will be planted in a hugelkultur placed between the driplines of two large elms behind the house, so I will be able to irrigate it during establishment of the trees.<br /> <br /> Overstory:  Cedar Elm<br /> Understory:  Asian Persimmon (probably "Fuyu")<br /> Shrub:  Elderberry, Blackberry<br /> Herbaceous:  ?<br /> Groundcover:  ?<br /> Vine: ?<br /> Root: ?<br /> <br /> Any suggestions for plants to use or other input is appreciated.  :)]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Mon, May 7 2012 12:06:53 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Tyler Ludens]]></author>
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				<title>Could my Apricot tree have been totally killed by late frost?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[While perusing the orchard yesterday, I made a sad discovery.  My Chinese Sweet Pit Apricot, seemingly the happiest and fastest-growing tree on the property, looks totally zapped.<br /> <br /> It was blooming when we had some late frosts, and I know that can hinder fruit set and zap the blossoms, but all the leaves are brown, dead and dry.  It looks completely dead, minus some suckers making their way up from the bottom (even before this happened, it was very "suckery").<br /> <br /> It's sitting amongst a bunch of plum and pear trees that are completely unfazed, and is about 15 feet from a Hunza Apricot that was also in bloom at the same time but is in full leaf with no apparent issues.<br /> <br /> Is it possible that the frosts we had actually killed the tree above the ground?  The temps during that time were hardly ever more than a degree or two below freezing, and we never had a truly hard frost.  Does a tree become less cold-hardy overall when it blossoms?  Do you think it will come back?  I'm confused.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Mon, May 7 2012 09:13:57 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Matt Smith]]></author>
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				<title>You can see</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Real Happiness In front of you: <a class="snap_shots" href="http://tiny.cc/k2h8bw" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://tiny.cc/k2h8bw</a>]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Mon, May 7 2012 03:04:52 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[catherine frawd]]></author>
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				<title>New resource for kids and educators</title>
				<description><![CDATA[In honor of International Permaculture Day, the Children's Permaculture Guild is proud to present Kurent: A Journal of Permaculture for Children.<br /> <br /> Kurent is a monthly journal featuring activities, games, articles, reviews, crafts, and more! Each issue will feature permaculture-based curriculum for young kids, older children, and adults (including resources for parents, educators, and teachers).<br /> <br /> Kurent aims to provide hands-on activities and inspiration to encourage youth involvement in permaculture and earth skills.<br /> <br /> Each issue of Kurent will be available in pdf or print format. For more information, contact <a class="snap_shots" href="mailto:kurentjournal@hotmail.com">kurentjournal@hotmail.com</a><br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sun, May 6 2012 23:40:23 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Kurent Journal]]></author>
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				<title>Mice in the hugel bed</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Comment by Lisa Humphreys on Wednesday <br /> <br /> Hi All - I did some hugelkulture beds last summer and they have returned great strawberry plants except where the shrews/voles agte the plants and built a big colony in there.  Any ideas other than a cat (my son is allergic) that can help me keep them out of my hugel beds?  did I do something wrong?  Help!<br /> (This is a repost looking for help in lots of places!)]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sun, May 6 2012 14:30:36 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Helen Sullivan]]></author>
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				<title>Help with identification</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Hi, these two plants sprung up in my back yard.  Any idea what they are?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, May 5 2012 14:51:46 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Arthur James]]></author>
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				<title>New Member - Asheville, NC - Introduction and Some Starting Questions</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Hello everybody,<br /> <br /> I've been reading this forum for a few days now and have been researching permaculture for about six months (Gaias garden, youtube videos and various other books). My wife and I are about to move into our newly built house which was constructed in place of an old house that just had to come down.<br /> <br /> The lot slopes slightly down from North to South (right to left as you look at the house from the road), has an old oak tree in one corner, and apart from a young maple the whole yard has nothing but a thin layer of mulch at the moment. To the front and right of the house the soil looks pretty soft (sent for lab tests) and to the left of the house it is good in areas but there is hard clay in other areas (especially where the old house footprint used to be). At the moment the entire yard has been mulched (not sheet mulched), with some weeds popping up in certain areas.<br /> <br /> <b>The Plan</b><br /> <br /> I have sketched out a rough plan of various guilds (mini food forests using dwarf trees, or in smaller areas, just shrubs as the canopy layer). There is room for larger trees in certain areas but I'm not too sure if we will put those in. I have also sketched out the various other features including the paths, the shed, compost area, patio, clothes line, temporary dog area / main dog area, potential pond, potential greenhouse, pergola, wood storage and a host of other small areas for functions. We have an idea of what we want to grow but the specific placing hasn't been allocated yet.<br /> <br /> I am just about to start a 40 hour video course and also I have just ordered the volume "Edible Forest Gardens." These will help me finalize my sketch and help me with some of the more practice questions.<br />  <br /> <b>Implementation</b><br /> <br /> Before I throw myself into the project I want to make sure that the soil is free of lead and other contaminants (the old house most likely had lead paint and was demolished), and that the soil is well prepared. In certain areas there isn't a lot of organic matter and just an inch or two of mulch covering pretty dry clay.<br /> <br /> If the lead results come back clean then this is how we will most likely proceed:<br /> <br /> <li>1. Put in the paths and start a few small raised beds.</li><li>2. Build the organic matter in the soil so that it is ready for next spring.</li><li>3. Put in the temporary dog fencing the patio.</li><br /> <br /> The areas where I'm struggling in terms of implementation is knowing when to introduce the trees, shrubs and cover crops and how best to create organic matter over this summer and the winter. <br /> <br /> <b>So, here are a few questions:</b><br /> <br /> <b>1.</b> Should we get the dwarf trees in as soon as possible (i.e. this fall) or wait until spring?<br /> <b>2.</b> What is the best way to use some temporary winter cover crops (nitrogen fixers) that will be replaced with some perennial cover crops next spring? Or, should we just start the cover crops that we want to use in our various guilds.<br /> <b>3.</b> When should we think about implementing the different shrubs and berry bushes?<br /> <br /> I really want to do local compost and use the compost bins mainly for emergencies and seedling starters (advice taken from Gaia's Garden).<br /> <br /> <b>A Bit More About Myself and Our Aims</b><br /> <br /> I'm willing to do as much or as little as I need to (both in the implementation and over the long term). I don't feel the need to get things in right away just for the sake of it. I want to make sure that I'm doing the right things at the right time to benefit each guild and the area as a whole and set things up so that each mini forest garden is as self-sustaining as possible.<br /> <br /> I've been dreaming of owning my own area of land for years and I am really excited that the time has come to get started and learn all about permaculture from actually doing it (and not just from reading books) and to create something that benefits everything and everyone in our vicinity.<br /> <br /> Any answers and comments are really appreciated and I look forward to getting to know you all on this forum.<br /> <br /> <br /> Jack.<br />  ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, May 5 2012 10:16:44 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Jack Askew]]></author>
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				<title>Hay For Sheep Without Big Equipment?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[I'll be buying some sheep for my future land even though I know nothing about keeping them :) A farmer told me I must bale hay to feed them in the off season (winter I guess?) but the question I have is how do I do this without big farm equipment? Is baling hay necessary for keeping sheep?]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14465/128804</guid>
				<link>http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14465/128804</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, May 4 2012 23:03:41 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Brandon Griffin]]></author>
			</item>
			<item>
				<title>cob questions??</title>
				<description><![CDATA[I have made a small batch of cob and wondering how long it takes to dry. Also, I plan on putting a cob hearth below and behind a wood stove. Can I go on top of wood floors if i use backer board? same question for sheetrock....I have been looking around for others who have done this but so far no luck, would love to hear any and all ideas!!]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14462/128781</guid>
				<link>http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14462/128781</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, May 4 2012 20:06:23 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[John Seaver]]></author>
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