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		<title><![CDATA[permies: "organic / sustainable practices"]]></title>
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		<description><![CDATA[The newest discussed topics in the forum "organic / sustainable practices"]]></description>
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				<title>suggestions for fruit tree guild seeds, ordered from Richters Herbs?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[I'm going to ordering a bunch of seeds from Richters Herbs (we're both located in Ontario).<br /> <br /> Last year I planted a bunch of fruit trees, and I'm looking for suggestions for fruit tree guild seeds.<br /> <br /> I've generated a list, based on what I've read here on permies and elsewhere.<br /> <br /> Some of the postings on this topic don't go into enough detail. For example, several people have mentioned yarrow, plaintain, dill, mint, but don't say what variety they used. (Does the variety matter?)<br /> <br /> Here's what I'm thinking of ordering:<br /> <br /> S1870 Comfrey, Common Bulk Seeds<br /> S1630 Calendula Bulk Seeds<br /> S1630-001 Calendula SowNatural(tm) Bulk Seeds<br /> S5170 Sage, Garden Bulk Seeds<br /> S5290 Savory, Summer Bulk Seeds<br /> S1570 Burnet, Salad Bulk Seeds<br /> S1793 Chives, Garlic Bulk Seeds<br /> S2420 Fennel, Sweet Bulk Seeds<br /> S2055 Cumin, Black Bulk Seeds<br /> S4494 Plantain, Chinese Bulk Seeds<br /> S4493 Plantain, Greater Bulk Seeds<br /> S1740 Chicory, Wild Bulk Seeds<br /> S8016 Artichoke, Globe Bulk Seeds<br /> S2141 Dill, Bouquet Bulk Seeds<br /> S7000 Yarrow, White Bulk Seeds<br /> S7005 Yarrow, Red Bulk Seeds<br /> S7007 Yarrow, Sneezewort Bulk Seeds<br /> S4902 Rhubarb, Gansu Strain Bulk Seeds<br /> S4060-001 Mint, Korean SowNatural(tm) Seeds<br /> S4064 Mint, Mountain Seeds<br /> S4041 Mint, Menthol Bulk Seeds<br /> S7610 Amaranth, Globe Bulk Seeds<br /> S6140 Sunflower Bulk Seeds<br /> <br /> If there is anyone near me that wants to go splitzies on some of these, let me know. I'm sure that I'm going to end up with a lot more seeds than I need, for at least some of what I've listed above.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, May 16 2012 09:52:27 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Fred Walter]]></author>
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				<title>Sterilizing soil on asphalt?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Hey everybody,<br /> <br /> When sterilizing forest topsoil to kill the dormant seeds, or to make seed starting/fern spore potting soil, it's recommended that you put the soil out in a sunny place and cover with clear plastic sheets (which heats the soil even better than black plastic).  Does anyone know to what extent this process is sped up by setting the soil out on the driveway?  Asphalt in the hot summer sun could really improve this system methinks, but I'd love to hear from anyone else who has tried this before!]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Mon, May 14 2012 14:15:21 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Patrick Winters]]></author>
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				<title>Final Hours of Kickstarting the Butcher Shop</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Final Hours of Kickstarting the Butcher Shop are here! We're almost to $32K. We met our original goal for funding the final construction of the meat cutting and sausage making (butchering) and the extra is going towards finishing off the abattoir for on-farm slaughter.<br /> <br /> Check it out. See the video of our family, farm and animals.<br /> <br /> <a class="snap_shots" href="http://smf.me" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://smf.me</a><br /> <br /> I added new rewards of farm tour and butcher shop tour DVDs, book and now there is a final couple of special rewards. All this in addition to the meat, ivory tusks and original rewards for helping make our project happen.<br /> <br /> Any thing you can do to spread the word in these final hours is appreciated. Show down is the evening of Tuesday, May 15th.<br /> <br /> Cheers,<br /> <br /> -Walter Jeffries<br /> Sugar Mountain Farm<br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Mon, May 14 2012 09:46:56 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Walter Jeffries]]></author>
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				<title>Bacterial Canker of Cherry Trees, Anyone with orchard experience?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[<b>The situation:</b><br /> <br /> In my orchard there is 1 five year old cherry tree, 2 2yr old cherries, and 2 seedling asian pears. The orchard is located in wonderful sandy loamy soil that is near a creek, and fairly low on my land. However, I've never found it to be overly damp and placed the orchard there because temp/moisture levels seem to be more regulated there than anywhere else.<br /> <br /> Im looking forward to planting a large number of fruit trees this next spring, but am wary because many of the trees Ive planted over the last couple of years have died, and the ones that survived are now suffering from what appears to be a similar disease.<br /> <br /> The largest cherry has bad bacterial canker covering all of it's smaller branches and new growth, thankfully it doesn't seem to have gotten on the trunk or any main scaffold branches. The younger cherries have 6inches of die-back this year and each have 1 small canker on them. Last year I planted 3 asian pears that all died, and this year, within a month of planting asian pears I now have one with a branch turning black.<br /> <br /> <b>My hypothesis:</b><br /> <br /> 1) The soil's not great, these trees hadn't really been mulched properly, or ever fertilized in any way. They are surrounded by grass. Really they've been neglected up until now. Damage from frost, borer moths, lack of nutrition, and competition from sod all create stresses which can lead to disease.<br /> <br /> 2) It seems like the disease has spread REALLY quickly, and effected many of the trees I have planted. This could be because the oldest cherry tree is badly infected and spreading innoculum. I've also read that pathogenic nematodes, such as the ring nematode, can be a vector for these types of fungal diseases in stone fruit, and that they like rougher soils. It could be that there is a high population of these critters in my sandy orchard and that is helping spread disease.<br /> <br /> <br /> <b>Solution:</b><br /> <br /> 1) Take care of the trees. I've mulched large rings around all of the trees, fertilized with compost, and am beginning to plant benificials and dynamic accumulators/nitrogen fixers in the tree understory (even for the young trees that dont really have an understory yet). Also I'm trying to create good wildflower habitat to draw beneficial insects to reduce pest pressure, this will help reduce stress on the trees and prevent damage that can lead to infection. I think transitioning the area surrounding the tree to different bulbs, flowers, and perennials MAY have some effect on pathogenic nematode populations if they exist. They seem to have relationships with certain plant root systems (such as grass).<br /> <br /> 2) Prune out infected growth during dry summer months. This is difficult on the large tree as SO much of it is infected. Thankfully no real trunk or scaffold branch infection but I'm leery of cutting off so much growth. I'll be applying a tree paste to the cuts that is made of clay, effective microbes, neem oil, calendula, and garlic. This will hopefully allow the cuts to breath&heal while still protecting points of possible infection.<br /> <br /> 3) Biodynamic sprays w/ the following ingredients..... For nutrition: Seaweed, comfrey, nettles, molasses. For competitive colonization of trunk and canopy: effective microbes. For canker supression: Garlic, nasturtiums, broad leaf dock, calendula. Also all of these sprays will contain neem oil, to help deter pests &disease and feed the effective microbes.<br />  <br /> I'll also be spraying with copper this fall and next spring when the canker is active and spreading. I don't really want to, as this isn't really a holistic option, but I think it will help me gain an edge on the disease.<br /> <br /> 4) Paint trunks white to help prevent any winter frost damage. Also, rub a paste of Garlic, calendula, nasturtium, & Burdock directly on any canker spots that don't get pruned. I've read that these herbs are generally anti-microbial/fungicidal and can be specifically used to treat canker.<br /> <br /> <br /> <b>In The End...</b><br /> <br /> As you can see I'm pulling out all the stops to help these trees and create a healthy orchard environment. Really though, I've read a lot of books and have no real-world experience or mentor to help me with this. I'd appreciate advice, or any experiences people could share about similar problems they've dealt with in orchard environments.<br /> <br /> I just really don't want everything I plant to die and loose an enormous amount of time & money because I chose a poor location for an orchard, or because somehow my soil is secretly infested with pathogenic apocalyptic nematode critters.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sun, May 13 2012 19:50:27 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Austin Verde]]></author>
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				<title>El cheapo Drip/Bucket systems</title>
				<description><![CDATA[found this from a link from one of our posters from W Aus.<br /> Some great ideas in here, like the drywall screw drippers !<br /> '<br /> <a class="snap_shots" href="http://ezemvelo.blogspot.com/2009/07/bucket-drip-irrigation.html" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://ezemvelo.blogspot.com/2009/07/bucket-drip-irrigation.html</a><br /> <br /> and here is how they set them up in the bottom of the bucket with a PVC/drip combo pic<br /> <br /> <a class="snap_shots" href="http://www.bigpictureagriculture.com/uncategorized/guest-post-a-plan-for-food-security-in-a-climate-with-weather-volatility/" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://www.bigpictureagriculture.com/uncategorized/guest-post-a-plan-for-food-security-in-a-climate-with-weather-volatility/</a>]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sun, May 13 2012 15:05:32 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Morgan Morrigan]]></author>
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				<title>can a sunflower befriend a long island cheese?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[How allelopathic is sunflower?  I want to plant it with cucurbita moschata, but I can't find info on whether they are friends.  I have had great success with growing sunflowers with pole beans before.<br /> <br /> I do notice that the places where the seed hulls have fallen heavily from the birdfeeder is pretty bare, but the areas where it was scattered more thinly are lush.  Hulls are not the same as plant roots either.<br /> <br /> Does anyone have experience with planting sunflowers and squash together?  ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, May 12 2012 20:19:53 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Matu Collins]]></author>
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				<title>black swallow wart</title>
				<description><![CDATA[This scourge has been trying to kill everything in our garden, and I just found out this spring that I was using totally wrong methods to get rid of it.  For years, I'd pulled it wherever I saw it, and sometimes, where it wasn't too close to rose bushes, etc., I tried digging down to get at the very bottom of roots, but even after digging down at least a foot, and getting to lots of rocks, etc., there was still more root, so at that point I'd give up.  This spring at our local flower show, someone explained that when we pull them, we stimulate root growth and they multiply.  They suggested cutting instead, so that's what I've begun to do.  Also, I got these guys to remove our ugly chain link fence (for free -- they wanted the metal for scrap), so now it's much easier to get at weeds from more angles, so I'm hoping this may be the year we begin to turn it around.  Does anyone have other suggestions, besides weekly cutting of this stuff?  Our yard seems so small, but we're on a corner, which gives more edges for the black swallow wart to grow along.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, May 12 2012 13:41:04 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[edy rees]]></author>
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				<title>Pest ID</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Let me preface this by saying that if there is a more appropriate "beginner's" forum somewhere where I ought to be posing these questions, please tell me. I almost feel like people in the permies forum have much more advanced things to discuss than my first, and failing, shot at planting kale...  ??? But there's so much knowledge here, I'm just going to stick my neck out anyway. <br /> <br /> I found holes in my kale today, and this was the one leaf that had any evidence of the culprits. What are they and how do I get them to leave some kale for me?? I will also say that there is a lone white moth/butterfly (totally white, as far as I can tell, no spots) that has been looooving landing on my kale for weeks. I'm highly suspicious that it was laying eggs. Hmph. <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, May 11 2012 10:07:53 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Kylie Harper]]></author>
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				<title>olive production in southern tuscany</title>
				<description><![CDATA[greetings from sunny, spring-y italy!<br /> <br /> we have 3.5 hectares of terraced land on a southern facing hill in southern tuscany, about half of which is devoted to growing olives.  i was very much taken with the ideas of mr. fukuoka and was wondering if any of them could be applied to olive cultivation.<br /> <br /> has anyone ever tried - or could recommend - covering the area around the base of the olive tree with prunings?  the cost of fertilizer continues to mount and it seems logical that if the prunings were arranged in such a way as to inhibit weed growth as they decompose, they would also nourish the tree.<br /> <br /> i made a video of us harvesting the olives a few years ago and posted it to youtube, if you'd care to see how we are situated:<br /> <br /> <a class="snap_shots" href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0AD9klDgc2c" target="_blank" >http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0AD9klDgc2c</a><br /> <br /> i think "do nothing" agriculture is a bit of a misnomer but any advise or recommendations you might have to make it a little easier and less expensive would be very much appreciated.<br /> <br /> grazie! - bill]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, May 10 2012 04:36:01 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[bill kilpatrick]]></author>
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				<title>Finals Week of Kickstarting the Butcher Shop at Sugar Mountain Farm</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Hi Everyone!<br /> <br /> We're in the final week of our Kickstarter project to raise funds for finishing off the butcher shop at our farm. <br /> <br /> There were some new rewards levels added including:<br /> <br /> Sugar Mountain Farm and Butcher Shop Tour DVD, <br /> <br /> Meat Cutting DVD set from master butcher Cole Ward,<br /> <br /> Quarter Pig, Half Pig and Whole Pig value levels,<br /> <br /> Small Roaster pigs<br /> <br /> Shipping is included.<br /> <br /> Anything you might do to help spread the word one final time is greatly appreciated. We're having a big push with the chance to win T-shirts, mugs, DVDs, books and other things. See update #41:<br /> <br /> <a class="snap_shots" href="http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/sugarmtnfarm/building-a-butcher-shop-on-sugarmountainfarm/posts/223585" target="_blank" >http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/sugarmtnfarm/building-a-butcher-shop-on-sugarmountainfarm/posts/223585</a><br /> <br /> Short link <a class="snap_shots" href="http://smf.me" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://smf.me</a> and then select the update's tab near the top.<br /> <br /> Cheers,<br /> <br /> -Walter Jeffries<br /> Sugar Mountain Farm<br /> Pastured Pigs, Sheep & Kids<br /> in the mountains of Vermont<br /> Read about our on-farm butcher shop project:<br /> <a class="snap_shots" href="http://SugarMtnFarm.com/butchershop" target="_blank" >http://SugarMtnFarm.com/butchershop</a>]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, May 9 2012 07:53:08 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Walter Jeffries]]></author>
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				<title>One choice for herbs extract</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Now more and more herbs have utilized by the human. Even there are some rare plants. <br /> Some herbs to be ate directly. Some have been refined into powder, they are used in cosmetics, health care products and medicine. Herb extract was <br /> <br /> used in more and more fields. So how to choose herbs extracts with high performance/price ratio is a problem.<br /> and the following is a way to chooce herbs extract. <br /> They are the superior extracts. and they are used in many fields. You can have a look first. <br /> <br /> 1, Tea sapoin 95%(used in shampoo / washing field)<br /> <br /> Details:<br /> Product Name: Tea saponin<br /> Grade:  95% (decolor - white)<br />              95%(brown yellow)<br /> CAS NO.: 8047-15-2<br /> Molecular formula: C57H90O26<br /> Melting point:198 °C<br /> Botanical origin:Camellia Oleifera <br /> Monthly production capacity: 100 Tons<br /> Type of extraction: Ethanol/water<br /> Solubility : Easily soluble in hydro-alcoholic solution<br /> <br /> <br /> 2,Rutin 95% (usded in medicine / Meal nutrition agent)<br /> <br /> Details:<br /> Grade: rutin 95%( NF11, DAB )<br /> CAS NO.: 153-18-4 <br /> Molecular formula: C27H30O16 <br /> Molar mass: 610.5175 <br /> Botanical origin: Sophora japonica L.<br /> Appearance:  Fine yellow powder<br /> Monthly production capacity: 15 Tons<br /> Type of extraction: Grain Alcohol<br /> Solubility : <br /> Practically insoluble in chloroform and ether<br /> Infinitesimally soluble in cool water<br /> Sparingly soluble in boiling ethanol and boiling water<br /> Dissolves in solution of alkali hydroxides<br /> <br /> 3,Grape seed extract - OPC(usded in medicine / Meal nutrition agent)<br /> <br /> Details: <br /> Grade: 95% OPC (natural )<br /> Other name: procyanidin, oligomeric proanthocyanidin (OPC), leukocyanidin, leucoanthocyanin and condensed tannins<br /> CAS NO.: 274678-42-1<br /> Botanical origin: Vitis vinifera<br /> Appearance: Fine brown red powder<br /> Monthly production capacity: 20 Tons<br /> Type of extraction: Grain alcohol/Water<br /> Solubility: Good solubility in water<br /> <br /> 4, Pine bark extract (usded in medicine / Meal nutrition agent)<br /> <br /> Details：Grade: 95% Proanthocyanidins (natural grade)<br /> Other name： procyanidin, oligomeric proanthocyanidin (OPC), leukocyanidin, leucoanthocyanin and condensed tannins<br /> CAS NO.： 274678-42-1<br /> Botanical origin：Pinus pinaster<br /> Appearance： Fine brown red powder<br /> Monthly production capacity: 10-20 Tons<br /> Type of extraction: Grain alcohol/Water<br /> Solubility: Partially soluble in hydro-alcoholic solution<br /> <br /> 5, Boswellia Sorrata Extract  (usded in medicine / Meal nutrition agent)<br /> <br /> Details：Botanical origin：Boswellia carterii Birdw.<br /> Grade: 60% Boewellie Acids (natural)<br /> Appearance： Fine off-white powder<br /> Monthly production capacity: 10 Tons<br /> Type of extraction: Grain Alcohol/Water<br /> Solubility : Partially soluble in hydro-alcoholic solution<br /> <br /> 6, Cinnamon  Extract  (usded in medicine / Meal nutrition agent / Food additive)<br /> <br /> Details：<br /> Botanical origin：Cinnamomum cassia<br /> Grade: 10:1, 20:1<br />              5% cinnamon polyphenols &10% cinnamon flavones (natural) <br /> Appearance： Fine brown yellow powder<br /> Monthly production capacity: 10 Tons<br /> Type of extraction: Grain Alcohol <br /> Solubility : Good solubility in Hydro-alcoholic solution<br /> <br /> 7, Grapefruit Extract (usded in medicine / Meal nutrition agent / Food additive / Beverage industry)<br /> <br /> Details: Botanical origin: Citrus paradisi Macf<br /> Grade:  10:1, 50%  flavonoids (natural)<br /> Appearance： Fine brown powder<br /> Monthly production capacity: 10 Tons<br /> Type of extraction: Grain Alcohol/Water<br /> Solubility : Good soluble in water<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Supplier information:<br /> Contract: Merial<br /> Changsha Nulant Chem Co., Ltd<br /> Address: No.47 Kaiyuan East Road,Changsha,Hunan,China,410100<br /> Tel: 0086-731-86788076  Fax:+86-731-84084185<br /> Email: <a class="snap_shots" href="mailto:sales@nulantchem.com">sales@nulantchem.com</a><br /> MSN: <a class="snap_shots" href="mailto:nulantchem@gmail.com">nulantchem@gmail.com</a><br /> Skype: nulantchem<br /> www.nulantchem.com<br /> <br /> <br /> Wish the information can help you.<br /> <br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, May 8 2012 20:30:19 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Merial Mu]]></author>
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				<title>American Scythe</title>
				<description><![CDATA[My mother was feeling generous last week and surprised me by ordering me a scythe. I'd been talking about it for awhile, and so while she was in a local hardware store, she had them special order one.<br /> <br /> ...the only problem is that neither she nor the hardware people were very scythe-savvy. They ordered "a" scythe. I'd had my mind set on a European, but this scythe is an American style. <br /> <br /> And in my excitement, I never verified which style it was, and already ordered an extensive peening/sharpening collection of tools meant for a European style from Scythe Supply. Oops.<br /> <br /> Soooo... your opinions, please. I've not heard good things about American scythes. Do they have any redeeming qualities?? I feel like I need to start all over again in learning how to use and care for this scythe - but are they really that much different from the European style? Will the peening anvil that I bought still be of use? And, are they used in the same manner as European scythes? The only difference I am currently aware of is that they cover a smaller range per stroke, but is there any other difference I ought to be aware of?<br /> <br /> And finally, if it turns out I'm totally disgusted with this scythe after trying it out for a bit, does anyone know of an American scythe enthusiast that would be interested in a discounted one?  :-P Or, someone willing to trade for a European scythe would be pretty awesome, too.  :wink:  But, maybe I am getting ahead of myself here.<br /> <br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, May 8 2012 18:36:13 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Kylie Harper]]></author>
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				<title>I want a wheel hoe !</title>
				<description><![CDATA[want<br /> <br /> <a class="snap_shots" href="https://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/the-wheel-hoe-a-modern-weed-slayer.aspx" target="_blank" >https://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/the-wheel-hoe-a-modern-weed-slayer.aspx</a>]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, May 8 2012 16:39:12 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Morgan Morrigan]]></author>
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				<title>How do I out-compete a mono crop of Tansy?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[I have several acres of Tansy and the occasional hawkweed and knapweed.  Yes, I am aware that Tansy has certain benefits with insects.  It has however, become difficult to encourage any other growth.  What do people recommend for reclaiming a Tansy field into a garden? ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Mon, May 7 2012 14:35:10 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Jason Kootenai]]></author>
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				<title>Trees not holding fruit</title>
				<description><![CDATA[I am seeking help diagnosing possible problems with our fruit trees. We planted apples , peaches , pears  3-4 seasons ago. Bought from local nursery provider. <br /> Since then I have attempted to establish mulch around trees and have been thwarted in my attempts by earthmoving free range chickens. The trees are in 2 different areas of our farm and have recieved different rates and combonations of horse , chicken , and rabbit manure. Some have recieved more grass /forb<br /> mulch - top dressed , some have recieved more leaf mulch - mostly oak. The peaches in both areas have had fast leaf growth , this year they set alot of fruit and dropped most of it. The pears mostly alot of green growth few flowers and dropped most fruit. The apples are 2 Galas and one each of Arkansas black and one Granny Smith - they are sparsely leafed this year - no fruit.We are wondering if the chicken activity with constant manuring around trees and daily excavation of mulches may have produced over nitrogenation of soil.  We have decided to paddock chickens in poultry net from now on - letting them in occasionally. The soil was pretty bad to begin with. Also the weather is unstable - we had false spring this year with late frost and then 2 weeks of dry during normally wettest time of year.  Maybe it is just the age of the trees ? I know this is a rambling type of question but anyone who could shed a little light would be appreciated.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Mon, May 7 2012 06:07:08 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[wayne stephen]]></author>
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				<title>ORMEs/ ORMUS</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Hello! Ive been reading these forums for awhile now but I have yet to post anything. <br /> So here goes: I stumbled across something a few days ago that seems pretty interesting but I can't tell if there is any truth to the matter or not. It's called "Orbitally Rearranged Monoatomic Elements." Apparently some people have been using this substance (which I believe is a small amount of powder dissolved in water) once or twice a season on their farms and have seen extraordinary results. <br /> <br /> <b>http://www.subtleenergies.com/ormus/tw/ormusplants.htm</b><br /> <br /> There is a lot of mystic "mumbo-jumbo" floating around about this product. However, I have found some articles that attempt to explain what happens to plants with the introduction of this "superconductive m-state material." (google brings up several right away)<br /> <br /> I was considering buying some of this to experiment with in my garden. I figured some investigation was appropriate.<br /> <br /> Apparently plants aren't the only things showing positive results. People have been taking it for some time almost always claiming positive results for a seemingly unending list of ailments. I was hoping someone more intelligent than myself might be able to confirm or deny any of these claims either through experience or some other knowledge.<br /> Any help looking into to this would be really appreciated.<br /> <br /> -Brandon]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, May 4 2012 15:50:12 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Brandon Minch]]></author>
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				<title>Help with tuliptree infested with scale, aphids, and mealybugs</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Dear permies,<br /> <br /> I wanted to introduce myself and request any help or perspective on this problem below. I'm Patty and I've had some exposure to gardening, organic farming, and permaculture ideas from a natural living forum I participate on but no experience or training of my own. I'm new to all of this, and what I could most use help with is understanding permaculture ideas for how to approach the following problem. I'd appreciate any gentle insight and education, and resources anyone has to share about this situation below ...<br /> <br /> The tree in front of our house is a beloved tuliptree which has given many children shade while they play. We are very attached to this tree. A little bit naively, and wanting to be green and live sustainably, we stopped watering and maintaining our lawns for several years. We are new to gardening and lawn care (much less sustainable lawn care), and we didn't mind the dandelions and oxalis, and the original grass dying -- but we never anticipated that the trees would be affected. With some dismay, we detected an infestation late last year and thought it disappeared over the mild winters (in California here). But this year it seems to have progressed. We've been told that a water stressed tree will yield to an infestation so I make a causative link here between stopping watering and the infestation. We have resumed watering regularly, and have switched to a less frequent deep watering (learned about this from the lazy lawn care links that I found on permies.com).  <br /> <br /> My husband has posted some photos here:<br /> <a class="snap_shots" href="http://aguayophoto.com/tree/" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://aguayophoto.com/tree/</a><br /> <br /> You'll see that there is a "hole" in the canopy of the tree now and there are some close-up shots of infested branches, as well as shiny leaves coated in honeydew. You'll also see the size of the tree (just in case this might help with ideas for how to intervene, it's such a tall tree).<br /> <br /> Just wondering from a permaculture perspective what you might consider when faced with this. When to let it go, when to intervene, and how? What principles do you consider when doing this?<br /> <br /> If you've read this far, thank you.<br /> <br /> And thank you in advance for any help,<br /> Patty<br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, May 3 2012 19:08:15 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Patty Aguayo]]></author>
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				<title>I know you all already knew this but....</title>
				<description><![CDATA[I was pointed to this article today from a blog I read. I know it's old hat to everyone here but I'm encouraged to see that some main stream research is being done and is actually showing a positive result.<br /> <br /> <a class="snap_shots" href="http://ucanr.org/repository/cao/landingpage.cfm?article=ca.v066n02p55&fulltext=yes" target="_new" rel="nofollow">University of California</a>  ]]></description>
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				<link>http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14429/128447</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, May 3 2012 03:50:07 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[John Crawford]]></author>
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				<title>Flame Weeding</title>
				<description><![CDATA[I'm curious to hear people's take on using a propane torch as a method of weeding. The benefits and downsides I'd imagine are:<br /> <br /> <u>Possible Benefits</u><br /> - Less soil disturbance than pulling<br /> - Fast, Easy and Fun.<br /> - Leaving the vegetation to crumble in place with goal being to boil the water in the leaves, not burn the plants.<br /> - Ability to be selective, at least more so than a weed wacker or scythe.<br /> <br /> <u>Possible Downsides</u><br /> - Cost and Dependence on Fuels. Unless one made their own gas.<br /> - Heat damage to soil or insects?<br /> - Risk of fire. It's suggested to have a hose and extinguisher nearby.<br /> - Bylaw issues in urban setting<br /> <br /> I haven't bought one yet, but they seem to make sense from my perspective as I struggled to make the list of downsides. I'd like to use it to control grasses and for selective weeding in my garden/row area. Would the flame weeding maintain the benefits chopping and dropping the weeds on the spot, as the leaves become brittle and disintegrate? Perennial grasses and tenaciously rooted plants would need repeated flaming to eliminate them, but this could be useful in the cause to cause disturbance and root shedding. <br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, May 3 2012 01:08:29 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Jason Tomblin]]></author>
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				<title>Growing Wheat Without Buying Fertilizer</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Hi, I'm curious how I could grow wheat in North Texas without buying fertilizers. Is it possible to get fertilizer from the land somehow than from the store? I'm new to this so any advice will be well-received!<br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sun, Apr 29 2012 23:26:41 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Brandon Griffin]]></author>
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				<title>Root Production Method: RPM, do you know it?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[ So, basically from what I can surmise: RPM involves raising trees in containers that allow for air pruning of roots. When the roots come into contact with the air, they stop growing/die back and this encourages new root growth.<br /> <br /> Check it out here: <a class="snap_shots" href="http://www.fs.fed.us/rm/pubs/rmrs_p024/rmrs_p024_020_021.pdf" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://www.fs.fed.us/rm/pubs/rmrs_p024/rmrs_p024_020_021.pdf</a><br /> <br /> It seems like they just use pots that dont have bottoms and are shallower & wider than normal. This nursery: www.fknursery.com raises seedling trees using RPM here in MO.<br /> <br /> I guess I'm curious to learn more about the air pruning technique. Does anyone have any knowledge on the subject? There are a lot of products out there that claim to air prune such as at <a class="snap_shots" href="http://www.rootmaker.com" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://www.rootmaker.com</a>. But it seems that at forrest Keeling nursery and in the RPM pdf that the bottoms are just cut off of regular pots.<br /> <br /> I'm interested in this because I order hundreds of seedling trees every spring and their bare-root systems are as sad as can be. Over the past few years I've had barely a 60% survival rate and those that do survive grow slowly. I'd love to be able to spend a year nursing these seedlings into having vigorous developed root systems before planting and then not loosing so many trees.<br /> <br /> So far all Ive figured out is <br /> step 1: put seedlings in pot without a bottom<br /> step 2: put seedling in bigger pot without a bottom.<br /> <br /> There's got to be more to it than this.]]></description>
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				<link>http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14354/127853</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sun, Apr 29 2012 13:43:03 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Austin Verde]]></author>
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				<title>Blueberry plant time bomb!</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Hi folks,<br /> <br /> That title was a bit dramatic. I recently ordered 6 blueberry plants (2 or 3 year old transplants, basically look like whips) and they arrived earlier than I expected. I don't have a place prepared for them (I know, I should have had soil tested and conditioned it much earlier). <br /> <br /> I was wondering if it would be a good idea to plant these plants into pots, with a store bought soil mix, and then be able to pick out a good spot on my property and test/condition the soil over the next few months and transplant them either this fall or next spring?<br /> <br /> Any thoughts?<br /> Thanks,<br /> Joseph]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, Apr 28 2012 19:22:29 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Joseph Hatfield]]></author>
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				<title>summer urban farmstead buddy</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Howdy! I'm looking for a sister who'd like to move into our little rental  for the Summer with me, my 2 teen boys, 8 chicks, 1 dog, 2 cats, (and possibly an 8 week old buddy's pup I'm watching) at our growing urban education farmstead I got started in Cda. I would love someone who is jazzed about permaculture, gardening, building, being kind and earth concience. Small rent/ and or exchange for helping me out around here. Especially cooking meals, planting, watering, sharing stories, and friendship. Please let me know, I can answer questions. Thanks and happy planting!]]></description>
				<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14336/127707</guid>
				<link>http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14336/127707</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, Apr 28 2012 10:15:19 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[t lakatos]]></author>
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				<title>Inoculant hunt for desert site</title>
				<description><![CDATA[<br /> Biggest list. Best prices for non-Ag<br /> <br /> <a class="snap_shots" href="http://www.rinconvitova.com/inoculan.htm#Inoculantsc" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://www.rinconvitova.com/inoculan.htm#Inoculantsc</a><br /> <br /> This looks like the best one <br /> <br /> <a class="snap_shots" href="http://www.beneficialbiologics.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.product_details&product_id=3&textad_id=5&aff_id=16&vmcchk=1&Itemid=22" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://www.beneficialbiologics.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.product_details&product_id=3&textad_id=5&aff_id=16&vmcchk=1&Itemid=22</a>]]></description>
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				<link>http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14325/127643</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, Apr 27 2012 19:06:31 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Morgan Morrigan]]></author>
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				<title>Top ten autism chemicals</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Interesting.<br /> <br /> <a class="snap_shots" href="http://ehp03.niehs.nih.gov/article/info%3Adoi%2F10.1289%2Fehp.1104285" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://ehp03.niehs.nih.gov/article/info%3Adoi%2F10.1289%2Fehp.1104285</a><br /> <br /> <br />    1.<br /> <br />       Lead (Jusko et al. 2008)<br />    2.<br /> <br />       Methylmercury (Oken et al. 2008)<br />    3.<br /> <br />       Polychlorinated biphenyls (Winneke 2011)<br />    4.<br /> <br />       Organophosphate pesticides (Eskenazi et al. 2007; London et al. 2012)<br />    5.<br /> <br />       Organochlorine pesticides (Eskenazi et al. 2008)<br />    6.<br /> <br />       Endocrine disruptors (Braun et al. 2011; Miodovnik et al. 2011)<br />    7.<br /> <br />       Automotive exhaust (Volk et al. 2011)<br />    8.<br /> <br />       Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (Perera et al. 2009)<br />    9.<br /> <br />       Brominated flame retardants (Herbstman et al. 2010)<br />   10.<br /> <br />       Perfluorinated compounds (Stein and Savitz 2011).<br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, Apr 27 2012 13:11:07 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Morgan Morrigan]]></author>
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				<title>bugs-pick-up-pesticide-resistance-from-pesticide-eating-bacteria</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Here is the next stage of insect infestation<br /> <br /> <a class="snap_shots" href="http://arstechnica.com/science/news/2012/04/bugs-pick-up-pesticide-resistance-from-pesticide-eating-bacteria.ars?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+arstechnica%2Findex+%28Ars+Technica+-+Featured+Content%29" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://arstechnica.com/science/news/2012/04/bugs-pick-up-pesticide-resistance-from-pesticide-eating-bacteria.ars?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+arstechnica%2Findex+%28Ars+Technica+-+Featured+Content%29</a>]]></description>
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				<link>http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14285/127305</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, Apr 25 2012 15:38:01 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Morgan Morrigan]]></author>
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				<title>I want a scythe like Brian Kerkvliet's</title>
				<description><![CDATA[WOW!  I've never seen a scythe in action.  That was amazing!<br /> <br /> Another problem with string trimmers not mentioned in the video is the permanence of the bits of 'string' that break off.  I used a string trimmer several years ago and am still finding little bits of flourescent green plastic in my yard.<br /> <br /> Oh, yeah, another problem:  my working (as opposed to dress) cowboy boots were dyed green for months after that little ear-splitting, nerve jangling experience.<br /> <br /> Thanks for the great video, Paul!  And please thank Brian Kerkvliet for his demonstration.  I'll be looking for a good scythe now.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, Apr 24 2012 19:47:10 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Marla Kacey]]></author>
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				<title>Organic insecticide?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[My lettuce looks like it's being eaten. Is there something I can make to keep the insects away? I've read that insects only eat unhealthy plants, so maybe my plants are just unhealthy? =/]]></description>
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				<link>http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14271/127163</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, Apr 24 2012 15:03:09 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Annah Rachel]]></author>
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				<title>first time cover crop questions?? Advice please</title>
				<description><![CDATA[I'm sowing a cover crop of buckwheat in some garden beds that Im leaving to fallow for the season. Also planning on planting a winter cover crop over the whole garden this fall. <br /> <br /> What is the best way to sow these cover crop seeds?<br /> <br /> Right now I have a 5" layer of hay mulch set down on the beds. My question is this:<br /> <br /> Can I just broadcast these cover crop seeds directly into the mulch? Or do I need to pull back the mulch in order to plant the seeds?<br /> <br /> I don't really want to leave the soil bare for weeks while I wait for the cover to grow in, and I don't really want to remove all of that mulch as it is in the process of decomposing and enriching my soil.<br /> <br /> What's the best thing to do?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Mon, Apr 23 2012 21:28:49 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Austin Verde]]></author>
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				<title>What to do with a lot of fresh horns?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[<br />    Hi all-<br /> <br />       A farm hand friend has just given me a bag of very stinky fresh horn from young cattle, and I'm not sure what to do with them all! I've got a couple of dozen ranging in size from about 3 - 8". Most still have the squishy, marrowy stuff in them, and hair attached. <br /> <br />    A google search just brings up instructions for the biodynamic manure horn technique, not something I'm up for, I can't imagine how I'd get them cleaned out to get the manure in. (Did I mention they're really stinky?)<br /> <br />     The local raven sure was interested in them, and if I hadn't buried them there'd be turkey vultures circling - I like vultures but not sure my neighbours would appreciate it.<br /> <br />    Any advice/suggestions?<br /> <br />     Oh and by the by, thanks for all your help last spring re my young fruit tree guilds, they're all doing really well!]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Mon, Apr 23 2012 12:45:00 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[christine lawson]]></author>
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				<title>cartier love bracelet</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Nowadays, individuals become more and more fashion-conscious. They are always on the way of looking trendy components to increase their overall look. Most of them pay special benefit towards Replica <a class="snap_shots" href="http://www.cartierjewelryus.com/cartier-jewelry-bracelets.html" target="_new" rel="nofollow">cartier bracelet</a>, jewelry, income, <a class="snap_shots" href="http://www.cartierjewelryus.com/cartier-jewelry-necklaces.html" target="_new" rel="nofollow">cartier necklace</a>, jewelry and other style jewelries with unique styles, top excellent as well as incredible elegance. While, unfortunately, most of these trendy <a class="snap_shots" href="http://www.cartierjewelryus.com/cartier-love-bracelet.html" target="_new" rel="nofollow">cartier love bracelet</a> from top high-class manufacturers are expensive and out of the range of common individuals with restricted funds. Luckily, excellent replica <a class="snap_shots" href="http://www.cartierjewelryus.com/" target="_new" rel="nofollow">cartier jewelry</a> designed by experienced dealers are presented.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Mon, Apr 23 2012 03:01:13 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[kiddy smith]]></author>
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				<title>Planting Guilds for PAwpaw, Cherry, and Asian Pear</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Hi there, I'm looking for good ideas and help creating tree guilds/companion plantings for the trees listed above. If anyone has advice or experience it would be much appreciated. Below I'll try to give you an idea of what I'm already doing. Basically gradually trying to convert the sod around my fruit trees into an expanding circle of forest floor-like growth and cover.<br /> <br /> PAWPAWS:<br /> Everyone in my area that I know of (NE Missouri), has had difficult times getting these to survive their first few years because of their requirement for shade and a specific environment. We planted some last year in a forested bank of a stream and they survived with no attention. <br /> <br /> This year I designed a guild specifically for them. The pawpaw saplings are planted right underneath large Autumn Olive bushes on the shaded side and close around them I've planted gooseberries and elderberries. Once they are old enough the autumn olive will get cut down, giving them mostly full sun for fruit production, and the large elderberry and gooseberry thickets around them will provide trunk shade and prevent grass.<br /> <br /> <br /> ASIAN PEARS:<br /> So far the only pear-specific guild plants I know of are Currants.<br /> <br /> SOUR CHERRIES:<br /> Don't Know a thing.<br /> <br /> ALL TREES:<br /> will have comfrey planted around them as well as various flowering bulbs for grass suppression. <br /> <br /> Also I'm seeding a mix of buckwheat, yarrow, clover, parsley, chervil, alyssum, baby's breath, fennel, calendula, alfalfa, carrot, dill, radish, coriander, and daikon.  This is just a seed mix that I will direct sow on one side of the trees to suppress sod and attract beneficial insects.<br /> <br /> So....<br /> <br /> Anyone out there with some specific plants/shrubs/ etc. that they know of going well with any of these trees?<br /> Thanks!]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sun, Apr 22 2012 16:49:19 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Austin Verde]]></author>
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				<title>Water Wicking (capillary action)</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Hi! First post from a longtime lurker. :)<br /> <br /> I am trying to figure out a way to create a slow release water system using rain barrels and drip lines. The default config would be a valve at the bottom letting water exit slowly via gravity into the drip lines. Problems are that at high flow, the water runs out quickly. At low flow, emitters at the beginning of the drip line get more water than those at the end. Would inserting wicking material through the length of the drip line help for a more even distribution of water during slow releases? (Mainly looking into this to keep soil wet during vacations!)]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sun, Apr 22 2012 11:48:45 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Jay Man]]></author>
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				<title>Sharpening Shovels</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Do you all sharpen your shovels? It might seem like a dumb question . . .  but<br /> I ask, since it seems I have run across a large number of people who don't know one can, and in my opinion should, sharpen almost any tool used for slicing into dirt.<br /> Like one of those simple skills that has been misplaced in a number of areas.<br /> I had an old farmer show me how once.  He sharpened both sides with the front of the spade having a very steep edge and the back of the spade a less steep edge.<br /> I like a bench vise the most, but it can be done by sitting on the handle too.<br /> It makes digging, in any soil I have dug, ten times easier.<br /> And really only takes a few minutes/moments with a hand file (or dremel if you have).<br /> Anyway, I am just interested since I see a lot of dull shovels out in the world.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sun, Apr 22 2012 10:30:02 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[M Marx]]></author>
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				<title>Have Colorado Potato Beetles?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Hi.  I am new to permaculture but have been a lifelong organic gardener.<br /> My husband loves potatoes and insists on planting potatoes in our garden every year.  Well, we have  those bleeping Colorado Potato Beetles every year.  I use the old search and destroy method. (Squeeze the eggs on the underside of each leaf and pick off the adults.)  Have any of you planted companion plants  like catnip, tansy and sage?  Did it work?<br /> <br /> What methods would you use to get rid of CPDs?<br /> <br /> BTW, I'm starting a new permaculture garden in  my <i>actual</i> Zone 1 area because my garden and compost pile are so far away. (More like the Zone 3 area of my land.)  I have lots of bush wackin' to do and the soil needs serious building up.  Also, I may wish to dig up  a berm and swale to capture the water that seriously pours out of the hillside each spring!!<br /> <br /> Wish me luck!!]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sun, Apr 22 2012 10:09:24 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Peony Jay]]></author>
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				<title>Pppppotatoes for soil building.</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Have seen mention several times about using sweet potato as a soil building crop. What about regular potatoes? And if so what would be the best way?<br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sun, Apr 22 2012 06:19:44 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Alan Foster]]></author>
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				<title>potaoes </title>
				<description><![CDATA[In the spirit of fukuoka I'm trying to eliminate unnecessary steps.  They say to leave your white potatoes out in the sun to develop eyes before planting them.  I've done this the last 2 years but also noticed something.  The potatoes that I missed when digging show up in the spring anyways.  So the question becomes, is this step needed at all?  I'd imagine fukuoka saying no :). Making things easy is important because I'm always busy with work ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sat, Apr 21 2012 12:00:33 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Chris Holcombe]]></author>
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				<title>Tips for the Ruth Stout method</title>
				<description><![CDATA[So last fall I decided to try the Ruth Stout method.  I dressed our rows with about 9 inches of leaves, kelp, and a little bit of topsoil mixed with composted cow manure.  From time to time I would check in on the pile, and try and keep about a 5 inch layer of mulch on the garden beds. As of now I'd say this method has built about half an inch of humus, and there are now a bunch of earthworms and other bugs running around everywhere, which is pretty encouraging. <br /> <br /> HOWEVER<br /> <br /> Even though its been pretty warm here for the last few weeks, the piles just aren't warming up.  I planted some kale and broccoli and they are clearly suffering from not enough nitrogen. So I took off most of the dry, uncomposted mulch (lots of the leaves are black, slightly gooey, and seem to be pretty close to being humus so I left that) and put down a lot of composted horse manure.  I only put the thinnest layer of dry leaves on top of this.<br /> <br /> So my question is- how long will it take for this composted horse manure to actually give off nitrogen? Will it kick in significantly within a week or so? That's how long I think my kale and broccoli has.<br /> <br /> Also for anyone who has tried the Stout method before- any general tips/suggestions?<br /> <br /> I'll try and add pictures if I can obtain a camera.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, Apr 19 2012 20:50:43 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[jesse markowitz]]></author>
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				<title>How long will it last </title>
				<description><![CDATA[I have a worm farm and I and takeing thR water from it and I want to use it how long will it last be four it is no good ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, Apr 19 2012 17:36:57 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Jamie McKenna]]></author>
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				<title>hoop-house Roll Up Sides</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Anyone have any expertise or advice on how to make your own roll up sides for a hoop house (a poly covered metal framed greenhouse)<br /> The hand cranks are really expensive from what I have seen<br /> There must be organic-permies who have/need a cheap efficient way to ventilate their greenhouse using roll up sides.<br /> ideas?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, Apr 17 2012 20:37:20 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Organdy Hatfield]]></author>
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				<title>Earthship's Exterior Botanical Cell</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Earlier last year I posted an idea for an alternative to a septic using plants in an enclosed box to biodegrade waste product.<br /> <br /> I knew then that Earthship had something very similar and, in hindsight, I should have posted a link to the Earthship page outlining their "Exterior Botanical Cell" here:<br /> <br /> <a class="snap_shots" href="http://earthship.com/Systems/sewage.html" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://earthship.com/Systems/sewage.html</a><br /> <br /> That said, why isn't this idea more applied and developed?<br /> <br /> It's basically a biosphere for waste management. The waste products in entirely controlled and contained with no contact with the surrounding environment through the whole process. It would seem to me the principle could be applied in varying degrees and scales to fit anyone's needs minus the emptying buckets.<br /> <br /> I realize the bucket method is very efficient and inexpensive and what not, but, if one has the means, wouldn't a system that eliminates the bucket system be the ideal? (Also, the bucket system, in which the waste product is put in a compost pile is not exactly sealed off from the surrounding environment, btw.)<br /> <br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, Apr 17 2012 15:15:08 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[farful Hatfield]]></author>
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				<title>Making over a shady lawn</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Have a small front yard that is mainly bahia and weeds. There is a large oak tree in it that I am keeping for shade. Yard faces west, kind of sandy soil but has had years of leaves didintegrating into it along with the clippings from mowing. Want to do it over into something more useful and sustainable than water wasting grass but research says too hot here for clover as usually suggested. Zone 9 with very little rain so far this year but usually heavy when it comes. Any help is appreciated.]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, Apr 17 2012 10:54:31 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Alan Foster]]></author>
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				<title>Small hugelkultur bed</title>
				<description><![CDATA[This photo of a small hugelkultur planting area was posted on FB so I had to share it on my page.  For someone who is daunted by the idea of trying to move giant tree trunks and front end loaders full of top soil - this is perfect.<br /> <br /> Anyone can do this with out heavy equipment and by just gathering fallen limbs.  <br /> <br /> Also, here in my area of South Carolina, keeping it low to the ground helps maximize moisture retention and keeps the beds cool.  We have already had some pretty hot days here and when I put my hand down below the surface of my hugel bed is is moist (not wet) and cool.<br /> <br /> <a class="snap_shots" href="https://www.facebook.com/SumterSustainableLiving?ref=tn_tnmn" target="_blank" >https://www.facebook.com/SumterSustainableLiving?ref=tn_tnmn</a><a class="snap_shots" href="https://www.facebook.com/SumterSustainableLiving?ref=tn_tnmn" target="_new" >pic of small hugel bed anyone can do.</a>]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, Apr 17 2012 07:31:18 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Jeanine Gurley]]></author>
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				<title>What plants can outcompete lawn grass?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[I'm trying to get rid of the grass on a slope.  I've ordered some groundcover raspberries and need to know what else to plant with them.  Digging all the grass out would invite erosion.  It's too steep to sheet mulch.  Many years ago I tried smothering it with cardboard pinned down with big wire stapes, but the city deemed that unsightly and made me take it off.  It's in part shade.  What can I plant here?<br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Sun, Apr 15 2012 10:56:07 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Thea Olsen]]></author>
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				<title>Just read Masanobu Fukuoka's The One-Straw Revolution. Couple questions...</title>
				<description><![CDATA[1. He talks about not tilling the soil. If I don't till the soil, should I just spread the compost on the top layer?<br /> <br /> 2. Also, is there a way to get my fruit trees to the point where I don't have to prune them anymore? Or can I only do that if they're young?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, Apr 13 2012 20:18:45 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Annah Rachel]]></author>
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				<title>How To Keep Mounded Beds From eroding?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[This is my first post on this forum and I'm looking for some advice about my garden beds. Glad to have joined this community and be part of this great wealth of knowledge. <br /> <br /> I've got a 2000 or so sq ft annual garden that consists of mounded beds. The beds don't have any side support (frames). This spring I had to spend a huge amount of time rebuilding as much of them had washed away. I'd like to hear peoples thoughts on keeping them from eroding and helping decrease the maintenance required to keep them in shape. We get really heavy and sometimes violent rains here in northern missouri.<br /> <br /> I've done much heavier straw mulching this year and am planting cover crops of buckwheat in unused parts of the garden this summer as well as planting legume and rye covers over the fall and winter. <br /> <br /> During the growing season I'm thinking about planting creeping thyme and other ground covers along the bottom edges of the beds as well as letting "weeds" grow here. The idea would be that the root structures of these plants would help keep the soil on the sides from washing away better than just mulching. <br /> <br /> Any thoughts on what plants would be good for this ground cover (preferably flowering perennials)? Also any other ideas about how to keep these beds in shape would be much appreciated.<br /> <br /> I'm not really interested in framing the beds at all , and would like an alternative solution to accomplish a similar thing.<br /> <br /> Thanks!]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, Apr 13 2012 14:34:45 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Austin Verde]]></author>
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				<title>akebia pollinators</title>
				<description><![CDATA[I like akebia fruit. last year I hand pollinated the vines here, and it worked fine, but it isn't my favorite thing to do. anybody know which critters pollinate these things in their native habitat?]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, Apr 13 2012 12:33:18 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[tel jetson]]></author>
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				<title>Diaper gel (sodium polyacrylate) for water retention?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[This is something I've been thinking about for a while.  My family of four produces little waste with the exception of diapers and some plastic packaging.  I used to use cloth diapers until we moved here, but the water here has so much mineral content that the kids started getting rashes from the diapers.  Plus it began to get very time consuming.  <br /> <br /> SO... The disposable diapers have a sodium polyacrylate fill that soak up 200 times it's weight in liquid.  If it were feasible to remove that sodium polyacrylate + Urine from the diaper shell would it be at all useful to amend soils for water retention?  I know the urine would be helpful but sodium polyacrylate is a salt so I don't know if it would mess with the salinity of the soil in such a way that would cause problems growing plants.  I'm not sure it would OK for food production but maybe in beneficial insect gardens.  <br /> <br /> Does anyone have any input on this?<br /> <br /> A LOT of waste in landfills is disposable diapers and it would be nice to find a use for them.  <br /> <br /> I know there are compostable diapers out there and there are a lot of opinions about diapers but this question is more about the sodium polyacrylate and Permaculture uses for it.<br /> <br /> <br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, Apr 13 2012 06:52:24 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Craig Dobbelyu]]></author>
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				<title>The Myth of Sustainable Meat?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Interesting article, maybe some of you mythical meat farmers can write to the author?<br /> <br /> <a class="snap_shots" href="http://www.nytimes.com/2012/04/13/opinion/the-myth-of-sustainable-meat.html?_r=1" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://www.nytimes.com/2012/04/13/opinion/the-myth-of-sustainable-meat.html?_r=1</a>]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Fri, Apr 13 2012 06:28:06 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[M Marx]]></author>
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				<title>Electricity free way to cool a home?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[What are things that you do? We don't have air conditioning, but do have ceiling fans which I would prefer to not use. We live in a garage and it gets HOT. Hopefully we will be insulating the ceiling soon, but I doubt that will help much with the heat... ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, Apr 12 2012 13:24:36 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[hannah ransom]]></author>
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				<title>Allelopathic Mustard</title>
				<description><![CDATA[I've seen recommendations in several books and other places for using mustard as a soil builder and cover crop, but as I was looking for a source for seed I ran across several sources that indicated it was strongly allelopathic, and even exudes broad spectrum biocides (killing many soil microorganisms).  That brought me up short, so I was wondering what others' experience has been using this plant for soil building.  Has anyone used mustard and found it to be generally beneficial?<br /> <br /> Here's a link to the site that talks about the biocidal properties of it: <a class="snap_shots" href="http://www.hearneseed.com/product-info.php?Pacific_Gold_Mustard-pid57.html" target="_new" rel="nofollow">Mustard stuff</a>  They're mostly talking about how awesome their variety is for its high concentration of this stuff, but it sounds like it's applicable to other varieties as well.<br /> <br /> Quoting from the page:<br /> <blockquote class="uncited">
			<div>    <br /> Bio-fumigation Potential- Ida Gold Mustard and Pacific Gold Mustard have very high levels of glucosinolates. The interest in glucosinolates, which are allelochemicals that occur throughout the Brassica family, has been generated because of the possibility of using plant tissues as a substitute for or supplement to synthetic chemical pest controls. Glucosinolate degradation produces biologically active products, the most significant of which (for potential biofumigation) are isothiocyanates, which behave as general biocides and have broad-spectrum activity on soil microorganisms.  Some commercial soil fumigants use Methyl Isothiocyanate as the chief fumigant or as the active pesticidal agent produced from the degradation of other constituents.<br /> </div>
		</blockquote><br /> <br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, Apr 12 2012 11:16:47 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Erik Lee]]></author>
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				<title>Learning from ancient experience </title>
				<description><![CDATA[This may be of some interest. <br /> <br /> <br /> <b>This article appeared in AM Cost Rica, today, April 12th, 2012. AMCR is an Internet news daily providing news in English about Costa Rica. </b><br /> <br /> Before European settlers arrived, farmers on the rainforest savanna grew crops in raised beds, a practice which would be forgotten for 500 years.<br /> <br /> Pre-Columbian raised beds<br /> may save vanishing Amazon<br /> <br /> By the A.M. Costa Rica wire services<br /> <br /> The Amazon region of South America, the largest tropical rainforest and river basin on Earth, is disappearing at a rate of around 800,000 hectares a year, but a new study finds one possible strategy for reversing this trend in ancient Amazonian farming methods.<br /> <br /> Analysis of a 1,000-year-old ecological record in the Amazon provides a rare glimpse at early farming practices before European explorers began arriving in the Americas more than 500 years ago.<br /> <br /> The study, published in Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences, finds the ancient farming methods could slow the destruction of the Amazon rainforest.<br /> <br /> The rapid expansion of agriculture and cattle ranching, road and dam construction, and illegal logging are the biggest drivers of this massive deforestation.  <br /> <br /> Lead author Jose Iriarte, a paleoethnobotonist at the University of Exeter in England, focused on a coastal wetland savanna in present-day French Guyana, on South America’s northeastern coast, where ancient farm beds and canals remain, unaltered, on the landscape.  In pre-colonial history, Iriarte says, this was a period when farmers reclaimed these seasonally flooded savannas into raised-field agricultural landscapes.<br /> <br /> A sediment core from the site provided the team with an unusually intact archive of how farmers farmed these fields. It shows pollen, plant species and charcoal before and after the European colonization in the late 15th and 16th centuries.<br /> <br /> Geographer Mitchell Power, curator of the Natural History Museum at the University of Utah, studied charcoal in the core. He says while evidence shows that naturally-occurring fires began decreasing globally around 1500 — a period of documented climate cooling — that’s not what they saw in the Amazonian record.<br /> <br /> “When we went to the French Guyana site to try to understand the record, the most surprising thing to me was that it was the opposite trend.  Fire was very low and then after 1500, fire increased," he said. "That was contrary to what 90 percent of the rest of the records around the world are telling us.”<br /> <br /> Iriarte says the native farmers understood how fire could harm the land and agricultural production.<br /> <br /> “We know that fire results in the loss of crucial nutrients for crops, fallows without fires are most effective in restoring soil organic matter and preserving soil structure," he said. "So we interpreted that they were limiting fires because it was better to grow crops in these raised field systems.”<br /> <br /> Iriarte says use of this fire-free method by the pre-Columbian farmers helped them transform the seasonally-flooded savanna into productive cropland.<br /> <br /> “Raised fields provided better drainage, soil aeration, and also moisture retention during the dry season. These raised fields were constructed mainly with the muck from these seasonally flooded savannas," he said. "So they are really fertile and they can be recycled every season.”<br /> <br /> Mitchell Power says this labor-intensive approach ended abruptly when as much as 95 percent of the native population died from a variety of Old-World diseases brought by the European settlers.<br /> <br /> “Once the Columbian encounter happens, we don’t see that type of agriculture any more," he said. "We start to see increased burning and a shift toward dry land farming. So people were then clearing forests and making their raised beds in the forests. And what we think is happening was a huge demographic collapse in this region.”<br /> <br /> Slash-and-burn agriculture — introduced to the Amazon not by the native farmers but by European colonizers — remains today a major threat to the rainforest. Experts say if such practices continue at the current rate, more than half of the Amazon’s tropical rainforest could be gone by 2030.<br /> <br /> Iriarte says pre-Columbian farming methods offer a tried-and-true alternative.<br /> <br /> “It has the capability to help curb carbon emissions and at the same time provide food security for the more vulnerable and poorest rural populations of rural Amazonia,” he said.<br /> <br /> The authors say bringing back these labor-intensive but productive farming systems to serve today’s and tomorrow’s  food needs will require extensive farmer re-training and the political will of the region’s governments. And they believe that if the Amazon’s current stewards can reclaim the wisdom of their ancestors, the damage to the world’s greatest rainforest can be slowed.<br /> <br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Thu, Apr 12 2012 07:01:08 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Al Loria]]></author>
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				<title>where, how and when to plant asparagus?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[hi,<br /> <br /> I am wwoofing in New Zealand at the moment and my host (not really any knowledge about organic/permaculture planting and stuff though) would like to plant asparagus. The plants are in a pot at the moment and about 30 to 40 cm high. She want's them to transplant into a bed. The bed is shady and doesn't get much sun during the day. The soil is a bit sandy. The property lies directly at a big river, so it is humid as well. We don't have good own-made kompost here but bought two bags of organic compost. <br /> <br /> My question is, how does asparagus like to grow, what does it need, is it a plant which needs a lot of nutrients? Does it like sun or shade? When is the right time of the year to plant it? Also I would like to know, how to transplant it - how deep has the hole to be, how deep does it want to sit in the soil etc.... <br /> <br /> Thanks a lot :) <br /> <br /> Lena]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, Apr 11 2012 15:22:22 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Lena Zett]]></author>
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				<title>Banana tree removal</title>
				<description><![CDATA[I have finally dug up the last of the group of banana trees in my backyard. It was producing little or no fruit and was brown and diseased for the most part. Because it was occupying and shading valuable space in my small garden area it needed to be removed. I am at the point where I have a bunch of dirt and 3 large holes. These are my concerns:<br /> <br /> 1. Will back shoveling the dirt potentially cause the trees to re-sprout? Should I put different dirt in to refill the holes?<br /> <br /> 2. I got to the bottom of all trees but the roots that were previously attached to the bottom of the trees are still seen in the dirt. They are small roots, not the big ones that were connected on 4 sides of each tree. Do I need to dig deeper to get to all these roots or is the corm of the tree attached to the bottom of the tree with a hunk of dirt and roots?<br /> <br /> This was a laborious task but it beat the idea of pouring kerosene or chemicals on the tree. Any advice would be greatly appreciated as I'd rather leaves the holes unfilled then digging the holes again in a week when I see new shoots growing up. Cheers.  ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Wed, Apr 11 2012 11:01:55 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Andy Weilbaecher]]></author>
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				<title>Is it okay to use a Douglas Fir in hugelkultur?</title>
				<description><![CDATA[???]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, Apr 10 2012 16:50:43 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Annah Rachel]]></author>
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				<title>New</title>
				<description><![CDATA[When's the best time of year to lime my padocks ]]></description>
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				<link>http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13990/124974</link>
				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, Apr 10 2012 05:55:32 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Jamie McKenna]]></author>
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				<title>New</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Just watched the google clip of Joel saltine hope that's right it's the best I have seen yet ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, Apr 10 2012 05:53:48 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Jamie McKenna]]></author>
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				<title>Hugelkulture - Giant cane / Arundo donax</title>
				<description><![CDATA[Hi all,<br /> <br /> I'm new here and I stay very interested in the hugelkultur sistem and wanted to give it a try. <br /> <br /> I have 2 questions for the experts:<br /> <br /> 1- is it a good idea do use giant cane (Arundo donax) in hugelkultur beds?<br /> <br /> 2- How thick should be the top layer of soil in the hugelkultur bed?<br /> <br /> <br /> Thanks in advance, <br /> <br /> Raquel in Azores islands]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, Apr 10 2012 04:03:15 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[raquel martins]]></author>
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				<title>Harvard University study links pesticide 'imidacloprid' to Bee Colony Collapse</title>
				<description><![CDATA[I've been very concerned about this issue for a long time now- interesting article from research at Harvard University:<br /> <br /> <a class="snap_shots" href="http://www.hsph.harvard.edu/news/press-releases/2012-releases/colony-collapse-disorder-pesticide.html" target="_new" rel="nofollow">Harvard School of Public Health Use of Common Pesticide Linked to Bee Colony Collapse</a><br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Tue, Apr 10 2012 00:39:32 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[J Kunkel]]></author>
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				<title>clover as nitrogen fixing living mulch</title>
				<description><![CDATA[So I have just been getting my garden going, after moving on to this old soy field.  Lots of weeds to combat.  I put raspberries and asparagus in last spring and laid down a thick layer of white clover seeds around the plants. so far so good, growing in thick and holding the weeds at bay as best as possible, but allowing for intended plants to grow well. My question is- Is the nitrogen being held by the clover since they are living, and not being released to the plants? or are they sharing? I am hoping they create a beneficial environment for each other, but now Im begging to question my self. Thanks for any thing.  J]]></description>
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				<pubDate><![CDATA[Mon, Apr 9 2012 12:33:59 MDT]]></pubDate>
				<author><![CDATA[Julie BE]]></author>
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