http://www.permies.com/forums/forums/f-10/alternative-energy JForum - http://www.jforum.net
One thing I'd like to do with a rocket stove is to use cold, outside air for the combustion, rather than drawing indoor air. This creates a very accessible cold-side for a Stirling motor, as cold air passes in through a duct, with the hot-side being at the chimney. One side-effect of this, too, is that the Stirling motor could be hand-cranked to generate heat in the chimney before lighting the stove, to start the convection process and produce less smoke.

One other design modification to the rocket stove I see is in using used fry-grease from restaurants as fuel. I read that the bronze-age Minoans perfected an olive-oil fueled bronze forge where an oil reservoir was channeled into a drip system, dripping drops of oil into the fire. The drops are small enough that their surface-area to volume ratio was high, and burned quite nicely. They used their lowest-grade pressings to fuel these systems, reserving the higher grades for food and lamp-oil. In our day, used fry-grease can be painstakingly filtered, dehydrated, and processed into bio-diesel; but in a much simpler process, straight used fry-grease (with some filtration) could be channeled into the combustion chamber of a rocket stove to power an external combustion "engine", such as a rocket stove paired with a Stirling motor. This could provide a fair amount of electricity along with heat during Winter months and at night when solar is much less available.

The biggest problem I see is the lack of a decent commercially-available Stirling motor generator.]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14666/130401 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14666/130401
Still working on my methane digester idea and trying to self educate along the way. I have been watching a lot of You Tube vids and trying to glean as much as I can from online sources. While there is valuable info there I still have pieces of info missing. While a lot of the videos are very helpful, the ones I have found have assumed you already know all about biogas. The basic concept and digester mechanics I understand. I am having trouble finding good info on scrubbing the methane once it leaves the digester. I see some folks using water, some using steel wool, some using lye water, etc. but I don't exactly get what is going on in these scrubbers and why.

Can you kind folks recommend a "methane digesters for dummies" book that will help me fill in the gaps on the scrubbing end of the process?

Thanks,

Ray

]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14615/129995 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14615/129995
I made these vids to help people install their own small system:

Solar and Wind Installation

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ajp0VkWZ9Jk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wrkyMKb73co
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1EylS_Kt0gQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8n7e9ttcmlM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ji7cuASm3ds

I hope that will help and I am always happy to answer questions and share ideas!

LaMar]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14547/129423 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14547/129423
2-day intensive biogas workshop with a working biogas digester.

Participants will enjoy hands-on experience with a 600-gallon biogas digester. This is not a demonstration model, but a working digester that converts organic waste from approximately 25 people at Maitreya Ecovillage in Eugene, Oregon into clean-burning biogas for year round cooking fuel and high-quality fertilizer and soil amendment for gardening.

Home Power • Permaculture • Peak Oil • Gardeners • Farmers • Renewable Energy Contractors
Entrepreneurs • Public Officials • Wastewater Professionals • Educators • Students

Workshop will include everything needed to successfully build and operate a biogas digester, a basic introduction to the microbiology taking place during the anaerobic digestion process with an emphasis on troubleshooting problems.
Participants are GUARANTEED to come away with the skills needed to consistently produce flammable biogas wherever they are, day or night, rain or shine!

Workshop cost: $225

Includes: Copy of Warren Weisman’s full-color “Energy from Organic Waste: Vol. 1. Introduction to Biogas” booklet; complete building plans, material list and step-by-step instructions for building a heated, 600 gallon home biogas digester; organic, vegetarian meals provided.

Space is limited to maximize your educational experience! Reserve today!

Payments can be made by following the WePay link on the website…

https://sites.google.com/site/eugenebiogasworkshop/home

Or by clicking here…

https://www.wepay.com/events/2-day-biogas-workshop-with-a-working-biogas-digester

Workshop instructor Warren Weisman owner of HESTIA Home Biogas is an internationally-recognized expert on biogas and anaerobic digestion with over 20 years experience as a builder, heavy equipment mechanic and power plant operator. He has written articles for Renewable Energy World, Post-Carbon Institute Energy Bulletin and Permaculture Magazine.

Email: w.weisman@hestiahomebiogas.com or call +1 (541)337-5690 for more information
]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14522/129256 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14522/129256 first time i saw it, it was a leaky , hydro setup that ran a pump for town water supply.

looks like he has upgraded it.

1hp motor can run a 30hp load.

http://peswiki.com/index.php/Directory:_Fernando_Sixto_Ramos_Solano:_Force_Multiplier_System

]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14503/129111 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14503/129111
I happen to have two plastic barrels in the 55 gal size range that fit one in the other. SO I am going to build a digester to run my gas BBQ grill with. The grill is outside on the back porch so carbon monoxide should not be an issue.

This will tell me a few things like...

How much of a pain in the butt is it to run such a system for home cooking.
What its like to run an actual appliance with it.
The smell factor
How sanitary can such a system be run
Is it really a cost/time effective system

As we all know there are a lot of things that look good on paper that become a real headache in real life application and different people have different tolerances for such headache. This small scale experiment will give me a good idea as to whether this would be a good system for me down the road.

I pretty much have the design worked out using bungees for compression (pulling down on the floating barrel) to create pressure.
My first question for you guys is this.

Will I have to get a different regulator for my propane grill or will I be able just hook to the current regulator and run it? Are there any mods to the burner system that I will have to make?

Ray]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14477/128933 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14477/128933
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oNuL5wAc8vg&feature=youtu.be

or visit our website at http://www.hestiahomebiogas.com

and feel welcome to ask me any questions related to biogas or anaerobic digestion. 100% natural, clean-burning biogas generates more energy than solar panels day or night, rain or shine while producing higher quality fertilizer than compost. Our home digester generates 70 cubic feet of biogas per day, enough to cook 3 meals per day for 10 people or run a 1 kW electric generator at full load for 3 hours or power a 200-watt 55-inch flat screen TV for 15 hours per day our of 12-15 lbs. of completely ordinary household and garden waste. ]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14439/128551 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14439/128551
My question is about biomass gasification. I have seen it mentioned in several places so I went looking to read up on it and I understand the basic process of heating dry biomass to create syngas. Here is the gap I cant seem to find the answer to.

Lets say I build my house and I want to use a gas stove in the kitchen rather than a wood stove and I definitely want to save my electricity for other things. SO I'm going to run my cook stove on syngas made from biomass form the property.

In a home set up does the gas have to be used as it is being made or can it be stored in bulk like propane in a 500 gal tank for future use? I know propane is under pressure in liquid form when we use it for home use. Can the same or similar thing be done with syngas? Or would I have to go out and make a batch of gas every time we wanted to use the kitchen stove?

Watching some of Dan Rojas you tube videos leads me to beleive that if it can be stored, large batches could be made using a large Fresnel lens as a heat source on a sunny day.

Another question I have is just how labor intensive is this process? I mean are you expending $20 of labor to save $5 of LP gas for the stove?

Again thanks for your help and patience with a new guys many questions.

Ray]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14425/128424 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14425/128424 http://biomassmagazine.com/articles/1674/solar-powered-biomass-gasification/). This particular idea involves using solar concentrators to drive the pyrolysis of biomass and to achieve the high temperatures necessary for producing syngas (H2 and CO). The benefits of this approach appear to be (1) greater thermal efficiency because some biomass does not have to be combusted to provide the heat required, and (2) a fuel gas that is not diluted by nitrogen. This latter feature allows for the production of liquid hydrocarbons through the Fischer-Tropsch process discussed here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fischer%E2%80%93Tropsch_process. Solar thermal energy can also be used in the process heat required. The former article also discusses the prospect of culturing algae as a feed stock. This idea seems appealing to me because most research into using algae for the production of biofuels focuses on selecting (or engineering) a strain for high oil production directly. Unfortunately, when organisms are selected to express specific traits it often comes at the expense of the general viability of the organism. Gasification might allow for using the hardiest strain. ]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14347/127798 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14347/127798
From there it just seems a matter of electronics to stabilize things at 60hz and 220v.

The only problem would be floods. I can see if you had a flash flood like the Missouri hills are prone to, that you could get the whole system potentially sped up to fast. From what I have seen the old timers handled that by either putting the mill in a diversion channel where they could regulate the flow and the main flood would pass on by in the main channel of the river or on smaller water put the wheel in the main channel and crate a diversion channel to handle the overflow flood water.

I really think the mechanics of this type system would be pretty easy to build. I would just need to learn how to regulate the power to 60hz 220v.

When we talk about the expense of such power regulation, are we talking $2,500 or are we talking $50,000?
Ray


Argh!!! disregard this. THis was supposed to be a reply on another thread and somehow I ended making a new thread I think.]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14345/127780 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14345/127780

http://www.treehugger.com/gadgets/powerpot-generates-electricity-your-campfire.html]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14324/127606 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14324/127606
There's No Tomorrow, video

This doesn't have to be a bad thing, but I think it's important to start thinking about how we live on the far side of the curve in a time of energy descent. ]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14316/127545 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14316/127545 Few people realize solar panels are only around 22% efficient. To them solar panels cost nothing to operate so their thinking is they must be 100'% efficient.
Scientists who specialize in such things have determined just how much sunlight energy reaches the Earth's atmosphere.
They have further determined that after losses due to atmospheric absorption only 1000 watt per square meter reach the earth's surface with the sun directly overhead.
At higher latitudes sunlight comes through the atmosphere at an angle thus resulting in more losses. Clouds or thin films of dust on the panel also result in losses. Most users rarely allow for this.
Somewhere in one of the posts on these forums I saw mention that an alternator is less than 50% efficient. Not exactly true but it is true that a typical generator ( which uses an alternator) is about 37% efficient. However, than same alternator driven by water flow can be around 80% efficient sometimes better.
It all depends on where you measure your values and under what operating conditions the measured device is run.
A solar panel has zero % efficiency at midnight. Do not let misleading sales brochures mislead you.]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14268/127144 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14268/127144
http://nextbigfuture.com/2012/04/brillouin-had-los-alamos-and-sri.html#more

http://pesn.com/2012/04/19/9602078_Brillouin--Understanding_How_LENR_Works_Will_Enable_Us_to_Be_First/

]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14256/127052 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14256/127052 http://www.thesurvivalpodcast.com/tag/steven-harris

NOTE: Scroll down to the bottom of the page to access the first interview of 7. ]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14240/126907 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14240/126907 taylormade r11 driver wedges and a putter. When purchasing the golf set, one would hope the golfer wouldn't be shopping for what is the least expensive, rather what the best fit for the golfer is. Each club must fit the golfer to a tee, taylormade burner 2.0 iron set I figured it was just a matter of time before the concept spread to other clubs. That time has come. TaylorMade's Burner line of metalwoods for 2011 also will have white heads. If both the R11 and Burner show up dressed in white, it makes sense. White is cool in golf right now. So TaylorMade could become a show pony for white. left handed callaway x-24 hot irons "People aren't afraid to consider a little of risk nowadays with fit, color, style therefore it is type of neat to determine, stated the Edmonton Country Club's mind professional Greg Kincade. Orange, pink and eco-friendly are the 2010 hot colors. ping g20 driver the R11 is one of the easiest drivers to align at address. Also, its unique technological features ensure the proper fit for every golfer, allowing you to maximize distance through proper loft, face angle, and flight path customization. left handed ping k15 irons The ping k15 should be on anyone's short list who is looking to replace their current driver. The K15 surprised me so much and impressed me that much more that I'm going to do some serious pondering about head to head testing with my current driver which may entail a change at the top of my bag for 2012.
----------------------------

TaylorMade R11s Driver
Callaway X-24 Irons

]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14217/126849 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14217/126849 On August 13,2011, GWHE was crowned with success at the China Import & Export Fair Pazhou Complex. There are total 137 exhibitors, about 500 booths. Thanks all the exhibitors and visitors to supporting GWHE, especially the famous enterprises, like MEDIA, Msrite, SHIM CHEN,M.UNIVERSE, Himin, Aigete, Linuo Ritter, Chigao ,New Times , 4smicoe,Solartech and so on.

Succeed to the brilliant achievement of Water Heater Exhibition 2011, many exhibitors expressed they would continue to be exhibitors of GWHE 2012.and some exhibitors booked their booths on the scene of GWHE2011, such as Boen, Louis, Aitoson, Yingtu Energy-Saving, Shim Chen, Weiji Energy-Saving,Jinjia, Chuancheng, Guo Hong, Tianzhixing,Yibo, etc.

More new products and technology will be displayed. You will see the following exhibits: heat pump product and equipment, Solar water heating equipment, Electric water heater, Gas water heater, Boiler water heater,related accessories and equipment, ect.

Contact Person: Jacob Kong
Tel: +86 20-22074185
Fax:+86 20 82579220
E-mail: Marketing4@grandeurhk.com
Website: http://www.whstgz.com
]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14168/126414 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14168/126414


The segment starts at 3.18.

Does anyone have any experience of doing this? Any links to share? Or any knowledge of other low-tech fire-lighting techniques?]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14155/126304 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14155/126304
PS: me and my 2 passengers did walk away from the crash with no harm.]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14144/126247 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14144/126247
I was using this page as a guide to shop for freezers based on power usage
http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?fuseaction=refrig.search_refrigerators

options
20%
Chest Freezer
<16 cu ft
No Icemaker
All Brands

Will these three panels power up a chest freezer that needs nearly 200 KWH/Year?

I assume that I am producing 164.64 KWH/Year (2940 x 56), which means no or find a chest freezer the size of your chest. Someone tell me my math is incorrect, please. I did purchase two sets of these panels as the hope was one for the freezer, the other for the wofati. I guess I'll have to combine the two sets into one somehow.]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14140/126223 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14140/126223
IF I bought property like I would like to in the future I would definitely insist on property with a spring branch or decent river. Missouri has more natural springs than any other other state and they are fairly common here. It is very possible to find such land.

I make my living as an artist and would not only need to power my home but also my machine/wood shop. Without the shop I am working at McDonalds.... Now I only use one machine at a time but I am often running a lathe or milling machine, etc.

Anyway, If a person had enough head and flow to make themselves a decent dam to run a few generators is it realistic to develop a system that will power both a home and a workshop and be totally off grid? And I mean average electrical use. I understand the average house uses about 1000KWH per month I could probably get a way with less than that through conservation habits, high efficiency lighting, etc. I just don't want to have to be so miserly that I feel like I live in a post apocalyptic world with rabid zombies at the door.

My big problem is I am having a very hard time getting all the small pieces of info I find put together into a big overall picture. How much power can you expect to get out of a generator/s if you can build a decent size turbine or a few decent size turbines to run them from a dam? Is there a way to store and convert the electricity to AC to run a home with 150 amp service and a shop with 50 amp service?

Let me add that even if it cost me more to set it up that buying electricity for he rest of my life from Ameren UE I would be willing to do that. If I could set up a system that would allow me to spend the rest of my life off grid and pass that down to my kids it would be WELL worth it costing more initially.

I understand the basic principles of how a turbine and generator work but there are a lot of missing links in my info as far as taking that principle and using it in a practical application. ]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14078/125652 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14078/125652 My question is should i just stick with rigid panels?
webpage]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14064/125500 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14064/125500
And on the other side, I am one of the cheapest Dutchmen you will ever meet. So after waaaaaaay to much internet searching, and calls to far too many dealers, I have hit a gold mine.

180 watt panels for $190.

I found these guys on the dallas/fort worth craigslist page, and Jay, the company rep, sold me 4 panels for $760.

He apparently has 400 of these mothers to get rid of being that the commercial companies want the most wattage per square inch - 240 or 250 watt. The company he is selling these for has been sitting on them for 6 months now.

If you're looking to build an off grid system or add to your existing one, give Jay a call. He's based out of California, has stock sitting all over north america and has new stock coming in daily.


Jay Granat
Wholesale Solar Technology Broker & Liquidator
Dallas Phn. 214-613-0498
California Phn. 530-303-3260

p.s.

I was not paid or asked to do this, I just can't pass up a good deal, and neither should you ;)]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14002/125076 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/14002/125076
Building energy management system


]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13915/124466 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13915/124466 ]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13901/124375 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13901/124375 battery_specs.htm]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13862/124041 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13862/124041
i was thinking of making my own has anyone done that?

I am either going to use a deep cycle or bicycle.

If anyone has metal working skills or black smithing skills. to help me figure out how to make a grinding disc that is pretty strong.]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13801/123559 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13801/123559
quick numbers:
60 amp MPPT controller - $500
2 240 watt 24v panels - $980
vs
60 amp PVM controller - $200
4 120 watt 12v panels - $1600

2 240w 24v panels in series to produce 48v can run through the same wire as a single 120w 12v panel - so that's 1/4 panel wiring cost right there, not to mention simplified installation.

anyway. Any permies using MPPT in their off-grid solar system? can you report on longevity/reliablity? recommend a brand or model?

Anyone have experience using MPPT for microhydro? i've got about a 1/4 mile run from hydro potential. it would simply be impossible to get any decent amperage that far at 12v. of course the microhydro would require a dedicated controller, and thousands of feet of wiring, not to mention the cost of turbines/penstock etc...probably cheaper to just get more solar panels? still up in the air on this one...

currently i've got about 400 amp hours of battery and 3 60w 12v panels. Plenty for lights, water pump, and a computer charge, and even light power tool usage on sunny days (cutting firewood with an electric chainsaw anyone?). but i'm soon gonna be adding a DC fridge to my system and it's 400w daily draw is going to put me right at the edge of what my system can handle during the sunny months. i've also got a much larger water pump (21 amp draw v. 7 amp draw on my current pump) i'd like to install and use for irrigating (my main tank has about 4 feet of head, my gravity tank only about 12 feet - very little pressure!). and for these luxuries, i gotta have the POWER!

i switch my inverter on only when it's in use, 3-4 hrs a day. i'm working on getting everything possible to be DC. anyone got a reccomendation for a small inverter with VERY LOW idle load?

Aloha and Mahalo! ]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13595/122000 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13595/122000 I have 2 fast moving streams about 100ft from my house so the system I’ve come up starts with a series of trompes(http://www.permies.com/t/4665/alternative-energy/alternative-energy-appropriate-tech-stuff#40416) to act as the forced air, initial cooling and drying. The compressed air would then flow threw a manifold contained into a passive soda bottle freezer(http://www.permies.com/t/4401/homestead/build-energy-efficient-walk-cooler#54714) in the basement. The freezer would be positioned under the cold cupboard in the kitchen and the now even colder air would be pushed threw another manifold in the cupboard. Finally the cold air would be released into the house providing cold air conditioning. i also thought of using a solar chimney to help things along. I’m figuring the freezer might be a cooler by the end of the season but that is something I’m willing to deal with. I would love any feed back from you guys.
]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13565/121733 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13565/121733


Next, I'm kinda curious: would it not be possible to have a MUCH smaller engine and get far superior mileage? Granted, there would be less acceleration power, but this guy is already doing lots of stuff to go easy on acceleration.

I know that I had a pretty beefy diesel tractor that seemed to run for weeks with ten gallons of fuel. It had a three cylinder engine.

What about the stuff with engines that sometimes use 4 cylinders and other times use 6 or 8?

And then there is all the stuff about hybrids: they tend to almost double mileage, but they seem to still use central motors. Digging ... here is a video from 2006



and from 2007:



If nothing else, this seems like it would vastly cut the weight of the car.

Here is a freaky fast non-hybrid car that gets 100mpg that comes from wikispeed.com



I know that I cannot seem to get away from using a car. And I think that is true for most of us. I would like to better get my head wrapped around the spectrum of solutions for getting better mileage. I know that there is a lot of push these days for all electric vehicles, and as much as I loved my all electric golf cart for farm use, and i think when it comes to tractors, nothing beats an all electric tractor, a lot of my driving has me going long distances that are beyond the range of electric vehicles. Also, for myself, I seem to constantly run into situations where all wheel drive is a big help.

As I peruse youtube, I think about two passengers, room for gear/supplies, AWD and the ability to go 600 miles in a day. I like the idea of fleshing out ideas on how to improve mileage with an existing vehicle (like in the first video) and getting a better understanding of what is available now and what might be on the horizon.







]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13473/121029 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13473/121029 I found a 700 watt Stirling engine generator that should be for sale in a next few months.
I have played with aquaculture and aquaponics in the past and now as I get ready to start to upgrade my home to a sustainable one and possible build a home for my family in the tropics I am looking at other ideas.
I am looking at adding an addition to my house with the entire south facing wall to be green house glazing. The southern eight feet would be a green house area for in ground aquaculture. I would grow salad vegetables above and NFT beds.
The aquaculture tanks should make great heat sinks to stabilize the green house temperature.
I am thinking of using a cream separator as a means of harvesting algae. I found research of using the idea in Australia as a centrifuge for the purpose. I also found algae research being used as Biogas feed stock also. I am not a big fan of algae as an energy source due to the trouble extracting oil but I think this would be doable as biogas feedstock.
With an ARTI biogas plant the turn around time is less than two days so the plant is not that space intensive.
By harvesting algae from the aquaculture tanks I can remove nutrients at a mush faster rate than using aquaponics directly. The heat used to power several Stirling engines hooked up through a charge controller to multiply capacity I could make the green house self supported in heat and energy. The effluent from the gas plant then could be PH balanced with egg shells, Limestone or sea shells and then used as nutrient solution for a hydroponics system. Since the nutrients would be concentrated it could easily be used for heavy fruiters such as tomatoes or bell peppers.
In researching for a paper for school I came across studies using spent mushroom media as livestock feed. With the nutrients in the waste product being high in carbohydrate the media would also be a useful feed stock for a biogas plant.
When everything that can reasonable is extracted from the input in the house/green house has transpired then what is left is still something that can feed the surrounding food forest/garden.
I have played with almost everything I plan in my house. I just never put them all together at one time. Now I am just planning and extrapolating it out. I am under estimating return and over estimating problems and hopefully it should work.
]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13359/120146 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13359/120146
Sunon was founded in 1980, Sunonwealth Electric Machine Industry Company Limited has always adhered to the business philosophy of “Brand, Innovation, and Value”. Step by step, Sunon has now become a global leader in the fields of precision motors, mini fans, and thermal modules. . In 2004, Technology Review ranked SUNON as the 48th in the world and the 4th in Taiwan in terms of technology strength. In Business Weekly’s list of Top 100 companies in terms of patents granted, SUNON was ranked 4th in the category of Parts and Modules in 2005 and 1st in the category of Power Equipment/Transportation Equipment in 2007, In 2009 & 2010,SUNON was ranked No. 1 market in worldwide DC/AC Fan suppliers by the precision motor market research of Japan Fuji Economic.
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SUNON developed the Super Silence Fan series, with its persistent attention to detail and acoustic quality, where we have incorporated mini motor technology into the fans to maximize the space between the fan blades and the airflow passage. Low starting voltage is a characteristic feature of the Super Silence Fan, which enables it to run at a low speed without losing its excellent cooling efficiency.
]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13182/119229 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13182/119229 SUSUMU
GNN COMPONENTS CO., LTD[/url]
1. Introduction :
SUSUMU International U.S.A., Inc. is a sales and marketing arm of The SUSUMU Company, the world’s leading specialist in thin film components for over 40 years. The SUSUMU line of products includes highly reliable thin film resistors with an extremely low failure rate for severe environments. SUSUMU’s miniature low resistance value current sensing chip resistors feature the highest power rating in the industry, excellent performance in resistance tolerance, noise, long term stability, and heat dissipation.
2. Product Line :

Susumu | Speakers & Transducers (1)
Susumu | Attenuators (25)
Susumu | Capacitor Kits (2)
Susumu | Current Sense Resistors - SMD (1031)
Susumu | Inductor Kits & Accessories (2)
Susumu | Metal Foil Resistors - SMD (285)
Susumu | Power Inductors (69)
Susumu | Resistor Kits (11)
Susumu | Resistor Networks & Arrays (1)
Susumu | Thin Film Resistors - SMD (30040)
Susumu | Delay Lines / Timing Elements (163)

3. Featured of product :
Susumu KRL Series Precision Current Sensing Resistors
The Susumu KRL Series Precision Current Sensing Resistors extend the resistance range from the existing RL / PRL series down to 1mΩ. The KRL series has improved TCR that is as low as ±50 ppm/ºC and is available in two geometries - longer side and shorter side terminal type - ranging from 1/3W to 5W power rating. Also available are types for high temperature applications (up to 170ºC) and for low thermal emf applications. TheSusumu KRL Series Precision Current Sensing Resistors offer a face down mounting for accurate sensing. RoHS compliant, the protective coating is halogen-free.

Susumu PRL Series Current Sense Resistors
The Susumu PRL Series Current Sense Resistors are very low resistance value chipresistors with long-side electrodes for high-precision current detection. Featuring excellent performance in resistance tolerance, noise, long term stability, and heat dissipation, the PRL series is useful in many current sensing applications. The Susumu miniature PRL series Current Sense Resistors are offered in 1/3, 2/3, 1, and 2-watt power handling thin film resistors (PRL1632 are realized as 1W for 3.2x1.6mm [1206]).

Susumu RG Series Ultra Precision Thin Film Chip Resistors
The Susumu RG Series Ultra Precision Thin Film Chip Resistors feature high reliability and excellent stability at different environmental conditions with resistance tolerances from ±0.02% to ±0.5%. With low noise, THIN FILM (NiCr) construction, the RG series is ideal for automotive, test and measurement, optical, telecommunication, medical, and industrial equipment.


]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13181/119228 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13181/119228 Why Light Bulb Bans don't save Coal or CO2 emissions

The incandescent ban and pushed CFL switchovers, as well covered by Paul here in the forums,
has its main campaign origins by Greenpeace and others (happily latched on to by profit seeking manufacturers!)
asserting that switching light bulbs helps save the planet.

As the Greenpeace image says...



The environmental argumentation is also behind the 2012 UN "en.lighten" campaign with large World Bank and intergovernmental funding,
allowing Philips and Osram to offload their otherwise unwanted CFLs in developing countries, that I might come back to later.

Coal,
is by far the main fossil fuel environmental concern with electricity use,
with around twice the CO2 emissions of either natural gas or oil in equivalent electricity generation.

Whatever the relevancy or not of CO2 emissions:
Light bulbs don't burn coal, and they don't release CO2 gas.
Power plants might - and they might not.
And if they do, then coal and its emissions can be treated in various ways.

Effectively the same coal gets burned regardless of whether your light bulb is on or off:
Relevant domestic lighting is mostly used from 5pm onwards.
Coal plants are on all the time at basically the same output level.
Slow and cheap.
They can't really be turned down at night, as it takes too long to power up in the morning,
and to some extent this is true of other base loading power, like nuclear energy.
Hence much fuel burned that noone uses. Hence cheap electricity at
night. Hence the lighting causing no energy use and no CO2 or mercury
emissions, that would not have occured anyway.

Even at peak times (centering around 5-7 pm temperate zones),
limited coal use and emissions are caused relative to any electricity used.
Peak times brings on quicker responding electricity generation, such
as gas or hydro powered turbines, because of heating, cooking stoves
and kettles coming on (rather than any lighting).
Therefore at such times, the light bulbs proportionally use sources with much less emissions than from coal.

So the idea that even (generously, see US Dept of Energy etc stat refs http://ceolas.net/#li171x) the 1-2% of grid electricity saved
from banning the incandescents translates into 1-2% less of any fuel burned, does not hold.
It may seem tongue-in-cheek to suggest that no coal savings at all apply:
But in a context of just 30-35% efficient plants overcoming 6-8% grid transmission losses (USA, UK and elsewhere) it is in practice true.

But of course, it is much more fun (and profitable) to indoctrinate kids to switch bulbs to save the planet!

As it happens, CO2 and other gas emissions may increase by switching away from incandescent light bulbs,
especially in cooler climates, as shown by Canadian, Finnish etc research, independently of one another (http://ceolas.net/#li11x)
That is, when the electric light bulb heat from a low carbon emission (like nuclear, hydro, solar, wind) power plant source,
is replaced by CO2 emitting heat fuel (like coal, gas, oil).

More about the deceptive arguments behind banning light bulbs,
with a referenced rundown of why the arguments don't hold
http://freedomlightbulb.blogspot.com/p/deception-behind-banning-light-bulbs.html
.]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13127/118739 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13127/118739 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13042/117963 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13042/117963 Still being winter, Im just not sure that there is enough sun to heat the water with passive solar. I DO have a dark green metal roof and think I will try putting a 100 foot hose up there and piping the water through after we get some sun and seeing if any heated water comes out.
Another option is wood fired heat. I have a good woodstove, puts out good heat. I do most of my cooking on it. Seems like it SHOULD be easy to heat something on the woodstove and pipe water through it.
I am also considering the compost pile heating method. I have access to heaps of manure and already have a little compost pile going.
Any ideas greatly appreciated!!]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13032/117855 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13032/117855 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13020/117737 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13020/117737 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13008/117622 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/13008/117622
1、Let led lamps placed in a-15 ℃ environment;
Testing method: light testing, through the relay control lamps and lanterns in this environment impact test;
The test set to: 20 s, light lights out 20 s, circular 100 times;
According to the object: led lamps and lanterns (including leddriver finished product lamps) test requirement.

2. Test box in the low or high temperatures keep 0.5 h, circular 8 times; Test requirement: consult standard: industry experience, switch on the power, light the lamps 24 h, and observe whether have damage, material lamps heated deformation anomaly; According to the object: led lamps and lanterns (including leddriver finished product lamps), Test cases of the temperature change of the range from 10 ℃-set to to 50 ℃, the temperature variable speed rate is greater than 1 ℃ / min, but less than 5 ℃ / min.

3. Let led lamps package placed in samples of vibration test on the stage; Lamps and lanterns in low temperature low pressure test after, cannot happen surface take off paint, changing color, material deformation crack, abnormal phenomenon; According to the object: led lamps and lanterns (including leddriver finished product lamps) led lamps test method, High temperature and high pressure and its impact test: in the object: led lamps and lanterns (including leddriver finished product lamps) test requirement: consult standard: industry experience.

There are also have many other LED test methods,but I think these three ways are most convenience.With the help of these ways, we can know wethear the LEDs we buy is qualified.Like LED wall lamps,G4 LED bulbs, LED spotlights, LED downlights ,LED bulbs ect.]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/12981/117380 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/12981/117380 http://www.gizmowatch.com/entry/sun-will-finally-shine-in-viganella-during-winter/

So there is a town that sits in a valley and gets zero direct sun for 84 days of the year. And now they have installed a 25 foot mirror to mend this problem.



Awesome!

Apparently, a computer controls the position of the mirror throughout the day. I think that the whole idea could have heaps of awesome use in alternative energy solar stuff.



]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/12973/117346 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/12973/117346 At the end of 2010, nearly all said the winter was passing, the spring was coming over, but the result is , the colder days followed. At the end of 2011, nearly all, whether they focusing on epitaxial wafer, LED packaging , G4 LED bulbs,LED down lights, LED landscape projects, etc , said, 2011 should be the coldest days, 2012 will be better, the company should increase investments, ok, bodies, please don’t impulsive, just stop a moment to do research about LED industry, about the field you are concentrating on, do you have the ability to face the coming venture. This do not mean you should to stop development, this means that you should assess the risk and get ready to overcome it.
]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/12937/117202 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/12937/117202
The latter idea sounded terrific. Is there any way to sync some of the heat from the fuel barrel into a house. I was thinking, maybe you could somehow weld some piping and a radiator to the unit and install it inside a house to transfer the heat. Is this a good idea or bad idea? Has this been done before?]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/12914/116929 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/12914/116929
Biogas Car]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/12805/116044 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/12805/116044 From what I have been able to learn, on one hand, fryolator/waste oil is a great potential resource.
However, there are also complications with just getting the stuff:
#1 Just getting it:
(A) As the biodiesel movement grows, added to by our wonderful new economy, this stuff is getting bought up by companies that make biodiesel, and "animal rendering" outfits.
(B) As the same movement grows, many sources - restaurants, etc. are adopting a grim view of those private individuals who seek it as being "Scavengers", and that is the most complimentary term I have heard. They don;t want to deal with the private individual so much anymore, except where they have to pay to get rid of it, and that factor is getting less common all the time.
(C) A check of the 'Grease Car' forums shows many actual resulting problems with using this as a fuel for vehicles, and with getting it at all.
#2: Technically, but very realistically, there are legal complications:
(A) It may, in many areas, be technically illegal to have/use the "Caustic" materials used to refine it, or otherwise separate it from resulting glycerine "at home" or at all.
(B) It may, in many areas, be illegal to essentially process or refine (pick a word) fuel "at home" or in general - without permit/licensing/regulation/etc. (see next)
(C) Such activity, in many areas, requires permitting/licensing/regulating/etc. and private individuals may not even qualify to do so at all, - legally.
(D) The IRS has an issue with people essentially not paying fuel tax on a "fuel" - most likely when intended for fuel for a vehicle, but possibly also for heating fuel, as I would like to use it for.

There may be 'counter-technicalities', or Loopholes regarding if it is not used for heating a dwelling, but a greenhouse or "outdoor" use.

Thus, in many places, it is simply not practical to get it or do anything with it at all. There are of course exceptions, and I am sure someone could say that "They really don't care", which is much like the 'New York' phrase "What could go wrong, eh?" - but if there is one poor sucker out there who gets some book thrown at them, it will likely be me or you.

I would really like to get into this stuff for heating a greenhouse or other things, but I'm afraid this is quickly turning into another one of those things that sounds good, but is in the end a red herring and a problem waiting to happen.

I welcome and appreciate any factual, reliable, first-hand information to the contrary, especially related to the State of Oregon and the Klamath County area.
]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/12781/115809 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/12781/115809 I'm new to using olive oil as lamp fuel so if anyone would like to relay their experience I'd appreciate it.

Thanks]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/12735/115331 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/12735/115331 http://www.forevershakeflashlights.com/technology.html) or put coils like you would find in an axial coil generator (look down the page http://www.otherpower.com/steamengine.shtml) on a straight base instead of the normal circular one. If it is the shake flashlight configuration I assume it would use axially magnetized magnets (see http://www.kjmagnetics.com/magdir.asp) however I would not know how to space the coils relative to the thickness of the magnet. Would it be based on the length of the magnet or 1/2 its length (ie the length of 1 pole). I understand the axial coil build but not the shake flashlight coil build. The primary build criteria would be energy density per unit length assuming wire gauge and magnet strengths are the same. Yes # of coils and magnets will differ but energy density not how much material's used is the primary design consideration. I can of course experiment but am hoping to wisely use knowledge other have,]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/12472/113106 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/12472/113106
Digital Billboards: New Regulations for New Technology--LED display
State, county, and municipal leaders across the SHENZHEN CHINA are finding themselves with a new issue on their agendas: the latest generation of outdoor advertising signage, the digital billboard. Also known as LED or electronic billboards, dynamic signage, constantly variable signs, and other names, these signs are a whole new ballgame in outdoor advertising.

The digital technology features two major changes from the old "static" signage, which is graphics painted or printed on a surface. The image in the digital sign is displayed by a myriad of colored "lightbulbs" (light-emitting diodes, or LEDs, actually). So while the static sign is visible from daylight reflecting off it (or artificial lighting at night), the digital image shines out, akin to a television set. In the digital signs, the image is supplied to the sign by a computer; the image can be varied at will, right up to functioning as a Hi-Def television display. These two properties -- potential for both intense surface brightness and motion -- pose questions to safety and esthetics issues beyond those raised by the old static signs, and require new analysis by agencies tasked with regulating outdoor advertising.

It makes sense to start off this discussion by addressing the topic of digital billboards and the future. The large outdoor advertising companies have embraced this technology as the replacement for static signage; in their book, it is the technology which is here to stay. Space on the electronic signs is marketed as being superior to that on static signs; it can cost as much or more to run your company's sign on the digital billboard as to rent a static one, even though your sign may only be shown a small percentage of the time on the digital display, alternating with as many as eight or more others. While the investment in a digital sign is a large one (often quoted as $250,000 - $500,000), the anticipated return is great. Overhead costs are also cut for the advertising companies; when signs are designed, they no longer need to be printed, and then installed by a crew in the field; at the click of a computer mouse, the sign graphic is wired or radioed to the digital billboard for display. The companies in the multi-billion-dollar outdoor advertising field have a large financial incentive to change most outdoor signage from static to digital over the coming years.

Why is our coalition for responsible outdoor lighting discussing the subject of digital billboards? There are a few issues which directly involve questions of illumination which we address. The signs emit light into the nocturnal environment, potentially including residential and natural areas and the sky; they consume large amounts of electricity; their presence can affect public safety, most commonly by distracting drivers (which, after all, is the signs' precise intent and purpose). To understand these issues, and consider ordinances which should regulate the placement and operation of these signs, we need to understand the details of how the various effects are measured. Unfortunately, this is not common knowledge; state and local managers may not be familiar with principles and metrics which apply. Our intent in this paper is to provide some practical definitions, and cite sensible, logical and defensible levels of regulation

LUMINANCE

Luminance is a measure of the perceived brightness of a surface. This differs from illuminance, which is a measure of the amount of light falling onto a surface. Luminance is a key measurement when analyzing surfaces which emit light, like a computer or television screen, or a digital billboard. Luminance, with this sort of light-emitting device, is controlled by the settings of the device itself. Illuminance is what allows us to see items which don't emit light; light (illumination) coming from other sources reflects off the object, rendering it visible to us; illuminance is determined by the brightness and location of the external light source(s). But any object which we can see has a specific level of surface brightness or luminance. A computer screen turned up to high brightness puts out more light per square inch of its surface than when it is set to low; a piece of paper in the full sun reflects more light per square inch than one in candlelight. The two billboards in the photo above each present a certain surface brightness to the observer's eye, whether they emit light like the digital one on the left, or reflect light like the "static" one on the right.

Illuminance (illumination) is usually measured in units of foot-candles or lux; luminance (surface brightness) is most often measured in nits or candela per square meter (cd/m2), which are equivalent.

Luminance plays a critical role in how a sign like a billboard interacts with the environment around it. During the daytime, a static billboard lit by the natural daylight will appear to the eye to have a brightness which "fits in" with its surroundings; it will not cause excessive distraction because of an unusual level of luminance. (Perception studies show that having something in our field of vision which is either much brighter or darker than its surroundings causes an involuntarily shift of our vision to the object.) A digital sign which is set to a luminance level higher than that of the other objects around it, which are lit by daylight alone, can potentially draw a driver's eyes to the sign when they need to be looking elsewhere to safely operate their vehicle; levels can even be so high as to cause vision-disturbing glare.

The luminance level which a digital sign needs to be set at to be visible in the daylight is far above that needed at dusk or night. This effect can be seen with other luminous displays, such as on cellphones and laptop computers; brightness levels which seem high indoors are totally inadequate outside in the much brighter direct sunlight. The eye of the driver at night compensates for lower light levels by becoming more sensitive to light; it is even more easily distracted, dazzled, and even disabled by an overly luminous object than the daytime eye is.



SAFE AND SENSIBLE LIMITS FOR LUMINANCE

While an advertiser's desire might be to draw everyone's attention, for as long as possible, in the most potent methods possible, logic dictates that it is not in our best interest to have people who are at the moment operating motor vehicles (and hopefully practicing defensive driving, monitoring all the other vehicles and activity around, ahead, and behind their vehicle) be inordinately distracted from that task by advertising or anything else not related to safe driving. While this goal does not in itself dictate specific limits to the luminance level of electronic signs, it suggests a logical course for deriving such limits.

For daylight hours, the maximum luminance level for digital signage should be similar to what the luminance of an identical sign would be if it was printed out and installed on a static billboard. In other words, the digital sign would appear no brighter, no more intense, that the printed sign next to it, or the landscape surrounding it. In practice, setting a limit of 5000 nits (setting the sign's intensity so that an area on it displaying full-brightness white has no higher luminance than that figure) ends up delivering a surface brightness similar to landscape illuminated by sunlight





Digital display technology (as in this artist's conception) allows for much greater surface brightness than old "static" signage, and sudden changes in display.



It makes sense to start off this discussion by addressing the topic of digital billboards and the future. The large outdoor advertising companies have embraced this technology as the replacement for static signage; in their book, it is the technology which is here to stay. To quote a promotional video from the Trans-Lux company, "Nothing’s as eye-catching as an electronic LED display. The brightly-lit text and graphics can be seen from hundreds of feet away, drawing the attention of everyone within view.” Space on the electronic signs is marketed as being superior to that on static signs; it can cost as much or more to run your company's sign on the digital billboard as to rent a static one, even though your sign may only be shown a small percentage of the time on the digital display, alternating with as many as eight or more others. While the investment in a digital sign is a large one (often quoted as $250,000 - $500,000), the anticipated return is great. Overhead costs are also cut for the advertising companies; when signs are designed, they no longer need to be printed, and then installed by a crew in the field; at the click of a computer mouse, the sign graphic is wired or radioed to the digital billboard for display. The companies in the multi-billion-dollar outdoor advertising field have a large financial incentive to change most outdoor signage from static to digital over the coming years.

Why is our coalition for responsible outdoor lighting discussing the subject of digital billboards? There are a few issues which directly involve questions of illumination which we address. The signs emit light into the nocturnal environment, potentially including residential and natural areas and the sky; they consume large amounts of electricity; their presence can affect public safety, most commonly by distracting drivers (which, after all, is the signs' precise intent and purpose). To understand these issues, and consider ordinances which should regulate the placement and operation of these signs, we need to understand the details of how the various effects are measured. Unfortunately, this is not common knowledge; state and local managers may not be familiar with principles and metrics which apply. Our intent in this paper is to provide some practical definitions, and cite sensible, logical and defensible levels of regulation.


LUMINANCE

Luminance is a measure of the perceived brightness of a surface. This differs from illuminance, which is a measure of the amount of light falling onto a surface. Luminance is a key measurement when analyzing surfaces which emit light, like a computer or television screen, or a digital billboard. Luminance, with this sort of light-emitting device, is controlled by the settings of the device itself. Illuminance is what allows us to see items which don't emit light; light (illumination) coming from other sources reflects off the object, rendering it visible to us; illuminance is determined by the brightness and location of the external light source(s). But any object which we can see has a specific level of surface brightness or luminance. A computer screen turned up to high brightness puts out more light per square inch of its surface than when it is set to low; a piece of paper in the full sun reflects more light per square inch than one in candlelight. The two billboards in the photo above each present a certain surface brightness to the observer's eye, whether they emit light like the digital one on the left, or reflect light like the "static" one on the right.

Illuminance (illumination) is usually measured in units of foot-candles or lux; luminance (surface brightness) is most often measured in nits or candela per square meter (cd/m2), which are equivalent. (For further discussion of these units or any other technical terms used in this paper, see our website's .)

Luminance plays a critical role in how a sign like a billboard interacts with the environment around it. During the daytime, a static billboard lit by the natural daylight will appear to the eye to have a brightness which "fits in" with its surroundings; it will not cause excessive distraction because of an unusual level of luminance. (Perception studies show that having something in our field of vision which is either much brighter or darker than its surroundings causes an involuntarily shift of our vision to the object.) A digital sign which is set to a luminance level higher than that of the other objects around it, which are lit by daylight alone, can potentially draw a driver's eyes to the sign when they need to be looking elsewhere to safely operate their vehicle; levels can even be so high as to cause vision-disturbing glare.

The luminance level which a digital sign needs to be set at to be visible in the daylight is far above that needed at dusk or night. This effect can be seen with other luminous displays, such as on cellphones and laptop computers; brightness levels which seem high indoors are totally inadequate outside in the much brighter direct sunlight. The eye of the driver at night compensates for lower light levels by becoming more sensitive to light; it is even more easily distracted, dazzled, and even disabled by an overly luminous object than the daytime eye is.

SAFE AND SENSIBLE LIMITS FOR LUMINANCE

While an advertiser's desire might be to draw everyone's attention, for as long as possible, in the most potent methods possible, logic dictates that it is not in our best interest to have people who are at the moment operating motor vehicles (and hopefully practicing defensive driving, monitoring all the other vehicles and activity around, ahead, and behind their vehicle) be inordinately distracted from that task by advertising or anything else not related to safe driving. While this goal does not in itself dictate specific limits to the luminance level of electronic signs, it suggests a logical course for deriving such limits.

For daylight hours, the maximum luminance level for digital signage should be similar to what the luminance of an identical sign would be if it was printed out and installed on a static billboard. In other words, the digital sign would appear no brighter, no more intense, that the printed sign next to it, or the landscape surrounding it. In practice, setting a limit of 5000 nits (setting the sign's intensity so that an area on it displaying full-brightness white has no higher luminance than that figure) ends up delivering a surface brightness similar to landscape illuminated by sunlight.

]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/12456/113021 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/12456/113021 Simple - Low Cost - Manual Solar Tracker For Solar Panels
Summer + Winter Angles

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aiNZKHU0jTM

I thought I should pass on for anyone interested...

Regards,
Monte Hines]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/12410/112599 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/12410/112599 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/12287/111624 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/12287/111624 http://www.richsoil.com/permaculture/640-podcast-103-eco-poser-test/

]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/12285/111617 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/12285/111617 http://lurkertech.com/water/pump/tailer/ ) now for those of you who do not wish to read that entire article I will summarize. It is basically a set of coils with decreasing diameter mounted to a water wheel with the output running through the center of the wheel, every time the wheel spins (slowly as it is powered by the river) it picks up water as well as air which is compressed as it journeys into the ever smaller diameter of coils. The air then decompresses as it travels out the output tube adding extra distance. So basically you get a low RPM high lift system capable of moving a lot of water (depending on the size of the wheel/tube) a fair distance. So getting ahead of myself as usual I did a bunch of spreadsheets for various sizes of wheels/pipes to calculate the lift/flow of water with various RPMS. Now I'm thinking that if you happen to own land near a river (which is an eventual goal of mine anyway) there is great potential there. The basic Idea is to run a pump or two' output hose way up a hill and then back down to the turbine where afterwards it will re enter the river. Now I've done plenty of calculations in regard to the actual pumps themselves and their capabilities (basically everything you can do short of building one, and I may decide to do that this summer as well), but I would like input as to potential ideas/problems ect. Specifically if anyone has had experience with hydroelectric power generation, regarding how to size turbines ect, and a lot of the electrical know how.


I have a few considerations (perhaps foolish, do tell!) in regards to pooling the water. But for the moment I'd like to hear any feedback/interest before I go blathering on ;D. Oh I should also mention that apparently there are large ones of these that have been built in Africa to serve the purpose of irrigation. ]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/12246/111327 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/12246/111327
I've seen on here where someone calculated the overall energy inputs required to manufacture things in general and it seemed to totally disregard the fact that a solar panel could conceivably generate much more engery over time than what it took to create it, giving us a net gain in energy.]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/12182/110663 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/12182/110663 pump like this might do the job? What does anyone think about this idea in general. If I try it out, I'll definitely report back. It'd be pretty nice to be able to eat greens from the backyard through the winter, eh?]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/12163/110550 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/12163/110550
Luckily I have my water boiler in the basement right next to the chimney , so I think it shouldn't be too much of a problem to install a wood heated water reservoir between the water intake and the boiler? The question is how it should be designed...

Maybe some kind of water reservoir inside the mass of a rocket stove connected to the chimney could work? Of course, it doesn't have to be rocket stove as I could use an old wood stove with a reservoir on top.
What is most "thermal efficient" when it comes to the size of the reservoir? A smaller reservoir (like an "on demand" system) would mean that a higher temperature is needed, while a bigger reservoir would mean lower but more stabile temperatures...

Any thoughts?
--------------

I'm also thinking about making a central heating system. Until I started writing this I was stuck on making a small metal cylinder to put on top of the stove in my living room, with circulation to a water barrel next to it, pumping the water further away to a water barrel in the next room. But now I'm thinking I might as well pump the water from the reservoir in the basement up to the first barrel, as long as this don't compromise the temperature of the water going to the boiler..?
But I guess that depends on what solution I go for in the basement? Also, it would mean that I have to go outside and down in the basement to feed the whole thing. Maybe it would be more convenient to heat the water on my living room stove.. I would also be better able to regulate the temperature with two separate systems..

Maybe I'm trying to reinvent the gunpowder here, but google hasn't given me anything so far...

Any thoughts?

edit: I might add that I live in a more or less dilapidated house on a 5 year perspective before I'm moving on and hopefully building a cob house, so I don't mind the solutions being odd and temporary looking.. my main goal is to experiment and learn before I build my perfect home within 10 years.. =o)]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/12093/109793 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/12093/109793
Links, compiled

http://www.builditsolar.com/Projects/SpaceHeating/Space_Heating.htm

Thanks,
Dave]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/12079/109669 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/12079/109669 Having seen all the alternative energy posts here,
I just came across an interesting well illustrated online magazine
(Chinese wheelbarrows etc! as well as "gasbag" vehicles, solar power, pedal power with unusual takes...)
done by someone in Barcelona, Spain
http://www.lowtechmagazine.com

also has section on eco-tech myths
http://www.lowtechmagazine.com/ecotech-myths.html


Recycling animal and human dung for sustainable farming
Long article here:
http://www.lowtechmagazine.com/2010/09/recycling-animal-and-human-dung-is-the-key-to-sustainable-farming.html#more




Also with long articles and more illustrations, topic examples


"Wood gas cars were not the only answer to the limited supply of gasoline in World War One and Two....


....an even more cumbersome alternative came in the form of the gas bag vehicle.
The old-timers on these pictures are not moving furniture or an oversized load. What can be seen on the roof is the fuel tank of the vehicle - a balloon filled with uncompressed gas."

Solar power, use in factories, the concentation of solar power etc...



wheelbarrows

wind powered example (!)

pedal powered solutions


the velomobile


etc..
]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/12072/109606 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/12072/109606 I guess this could cross with alternative building as well, so think along those lines as well

I am about to acquire some rather Large Mirrors, 3 of them are 12'x2.5' and 4 are 6'x3'. there free and where going to be thrown away anyway so i figured i should try to save them. i was thinking about taking them to a glass shop or maybe trying to cut them my self to a more manageable size to use as a backing for some homemade solar panels. and no i don't need them on my bedroom ceiling, (you know someone one would suggest it if i didn't say it don't you :) ).

So what other uses could you think of for them??? im just looking for ideas seems a shame to let them be wasted :(

edited due of stupidity on my part
]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/12047/109458 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/12047/109458
http://community.cartalk.com/discussion/2282901/a-woodchip-mobile]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/12043/109383 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/12043/109383 http://affordablemedz.com/]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/12024/109275 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/12024/109275
The idea is that you are shunting a lot of noise that is otherwise getting into everything that uses electricity around you.

Ideally this would be placed somewhere pre-sitting/sleeping area on the same circuit. However so long as it comes before the items you have plugged in around you, or at the same power strip, it will work.

I sleep better as far as I can tell even though I am not doing a controlled test. My nightstand has a fan, alarm clock, and light on it (all AC ran).

The filter consists of a 25uf capacitor (AC rated), and a 2 million ohm resistor across the switch so it will discharge the capacitor when you turn it off. Without the resistor it would discharge when you remove it, causing an arc (I had a crude version and it arced real easy). I also earth grounded the case for safety.



]]> http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/12001/109142 http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/preList/12001/109142