Yeah these guys totally look like late summer sun. They're that shade of gold and creams and browns. I was pretty sure I was going after the mushrooms currently know as Prince until you brought up those Almond Agaricus a while back. Since then I haven't been so sure. That love of calcium bit is really good to know. Same as the portabellas huh? I always do seem to find them on edges near conifers for whatever reason. Coincidence?
Yip, it gets reeaally complicated. Nature's not in the business of simple, that's for sure!
John Saltveit wrote:Whip and tongue, bark, cleft grafting is done in late winter and early spring from dormant new branches.
Bud grafting or just called budding, happens in the summer (august and september mostly).
I've been wanting to learn grafting for ages, and basically just never got around to it.
I've always been told that bud grafting is a great 'beginner' technique.
That's not much use to you, as it'd be nearly a year until budding season comes around
If you're in an area with grafting workshops, I think it'd be well worth going;
there'd sure to be all sorts of learning opportunities aside from just grafting.
Jon La Foy wrote:can you actually cut a small branch off then root it?
As John says-it depends. What plant(s) are you thinking about growing from cuttings?
I haven't heard of people rooting cuttings from fruittrees, which are generally grown from pip/stone or grafted onto rootstock.
People here may have.
These are easy though:
Berries like blueberries, gooseberries, currants etc
Also: if you plant seeds from an apple, fruit from the new tree will probably be very different-that doesn't mean not good though.
this thread goes on about it at length!
Stones from fruit like peaches usually grow a new plant that's pretty much the same as it's 'parent'.
Just a little update and need your advice with a bug problem .I did not have time to do the raised beds like I was planning on. Instead I tried container garden . It was already late in the season so I bought some tomatoes, sweet peas,peppers and cucumbers . I planted everything in empty 5 gallon buckets using garden soil I bought with the plants from Home Depot . I mixed in some compost from kitchen scraps and some saw dust. Everything was going great for 3 maybe 4 weeks,than the plants started going yellow and dying. I figured they were drying up from the heat. Today I was dumping the soil from the buckets and noticed what I believe to be the real reason for the plants dying . It happened to me a few years before when I was trying to make a garden . The soil was loaded with some kind of grubs . I believe the grubs are eating the ruts of the plants eventually killing them . There was maybe thirty grubs in a single 5 gallon bucket . Someone told me that the soil is to rich and I need to add lime to it . Is that correct ? My plan is to go as natural as possible . My neighbor has the same problem. How do I deal with it in the future ? Any advice greatly appreciated
Landor LeBaron wrote:"What we throw away in California for cosmetic reasons could end world hunger."
That was the thing that ticked me off the most. The obsession with "pretty food" that tastes like dishwater (and has about the same nutritional value) is killing the planet and everything that lives on it.
And, sure, let's import a gazillion beneficial insects to act as predators and then hose them down with the same insecticidal soap that we use to get rid of the "pests". BRILLIANT!!! (Not :/ )
Favorite way to eat cauliflower:
1) Steam a whole head until almost tender.
2) Cover with sliced or shredded cheese (I prefer a nutty Swiss like Jarlsberg).
3) Place under broiler just long enough to melt/slightly brown the cheese.
4) Cut into quarters & serve with a tasty beverage!
An update per request......The milk jugs didn't make a difference. None of the sweet potato slips grew much beyond a couple feet. The largest vine had a tuber the diameter of a pencil and about 1 1/2 inch in length. I'll try again next year.
Not sure about Oz, but here in the States it's not necessary to purchase new, let alone have one shipped to you. Almost any size and shape cast iron can be found in thrift stores, antique stores or garage sales. They're everywhere! Most people don't know what they're getting rid of when they donate their iron cookware or pile in a box to be sold. As an aside, I'm astounded at the amount of still-good stuff that hangs on the walls of some restaurant chains, but that's another story. It's my observation that the vast majority of the iron cookware found second hand can be made ready with a little TLC or re-seasoning and, voila! a new addition to your cookware selections. I ran across a video of a guy whose actual hobby is finding cast iron cookware and restoring it to good use. If a guy makes that his hobby, it's a good shot there's plenty of pieces out there to bring back to life.
I agree with the need to know about competing ideas in every field. I don't respect the intelect of those who only are knowledgeable about what they are selling. This is true whether they are selling poison, machines, some methodology or religion. For me to take them seriously, they must display an understanding of the ideas that compete with their own.
My wife is a "city girl" but when she had this stew, she said, if venison is this good, I can eat it daily.
South American Venison Cilantro stew
2 pounds venison
1/2 cup vinegar
1 teaspoon cumin
3 cloves garlic, minced
1/4 cup vegetable oil
1 large red onion, chopped fine
1 aji pepper (or other hot chile pepper), chopped fine
4 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 bunch of cilantro (coriander leaf)
1 bottle of beer
1-2 cups chicken or beef stock
5-6 medium yellow potatoes or Yuca
Cut the meat into approximate 2 inch cubes.
Mix the vinegar with the garlic, cumin, 1/4 cup vegetable oil, and some salt and black pepper, and pour over the meat. Let meat marinate at room temperature for an hour.
Purée the cilantro with some water in a blender or food processor until you get a smooth paste. (you can also add 1 cup of spinach if you are not too fond of cilantro, however it will not taste the same)
Heat 3-4 tablespoons oil in a large pot or skillet on high heat. Working in 2 batches, brown the meat on all sides. Remove meat to a plate.
Lower the heat and add the onion and aji pepper to the same skillet with the leftover marinade. Cook until soft and fragrant, about 5 minutes.
Add the meat back to the skillet, along with the beer, the cilantro, and 1 cup of the chicken stock. Cover and cook over low heat until the meat is tender, about an hour.
Peel and quarter the potatoes or yuca, and add them to the stew. Continue to cook over low heat until potatoes are tender, about 30 minutes more, adding more chicken broth if necessary.
That said, I'm kind of stumped by what I've heard about the acidifying effect of Pine. That's the only situation I know of where pH is directly impacted by the influence by one plant (or many of the same plant, as pine tends to dominate).
Some people say it's the enormous quantity of pine needles, but I heard Paul say it's probably the roots that are acidifying the soil. In any case, if you have a few pine trees and underneath you find acid soil, I really don't think you could add other plants and change the pH in any significant way.
It's really hard to jump just 1 pH number. You can do it in a small container pretty well, but when you're dealing with thousands of tons of soil beneath your plant, it's not happening with plants on any short-term basis. Things like pH are shaped over thousands if not millions of years. Amendments like lime work, but I imagine post amendment, like 20 years down the road - even less, everything turns back to what it was before.
I've been thinking about this kind of thing too.
Here's a thread From what I understand, legume species often need really specific inoculants,
and if the plant isn't native-or at least naturalised-
I'd say you're likely to need to inoculate for efficient nitrogen fixation.
As has been mentioned, it needn't from a commercial source;
another way I've heard is to take seedlings from under a healthy 'mother' plant.
I'm pretty sure that if the 'right' rhizobia isn't there already, it needs to be brought in.
Maybe this isn't the best forum for this reply, but it fits in with the thread.
I met a guy in the High Sierras (Lake Tahoe area) who was planning to spend the winter up there with a shelter of two tarps. He'd done it before.
I thought, "Man, that cat is hard core." Wish I'd been old and wise enough to push him to the limits of his patience answering questions.
Years later, I found myself in a cabin on the California Salmon River, about 3,000 feet. The only heat sources were the propane cook stove and
a couple of propane lights. Their contribution was unnoticeable.
Keeping your core temperature up is the the key. And insulation's how to do it. And activity.
At night, when the activity level goes down, it's nice to have the propane stove, because you can boil water for hot drinks, which gets the heat right
down to the center of your core, and you can fill something with hot water to put under your blankets and keep you warm all night.
I tried hot water bottles, but the seals turned out to be untrustworthy. Dealing with a wet mattress when temps don't get out of the 20s becomes a lifestyle.
What really worked was gallon maple syrup containers. I could boil water on the stove and fill that baby, wrap it in a few towels, and it would still be warm in
the morning. And I would be warm enough to go from the covers to the daytime costume (which had been part of the cocoon) with a minimum of self pity.
Catering jobs I have worked on very often had tubs and trays of food placed in the back of a minivan or SUV.
There is always the risk of spills and splashes. In order to help items stay upright, ice bags can be placed beside the cold items, but they don't splash so much. For the hot stuff, ziplock bags half filled with rice. Works like a beanbag.
Since keeping toxic gick out of the equation is desired, some socks filled with acorns would surely do the trick.
Have you considered a "Lasagne" gardening type solution? Cardboard can be attained for free, or very cheaply, and it's good at choking ground cover out. Perhaps you could get a few *straw* bales, or other seedless highly compostable material, a lot of cardboard, and other types of compostables and section by section start choking out the grass.
I'm not sure how things like Creeping Thyme and various Mints would do there, but if they can get established they'll be a great asset for bees and bugs, and they don't really have to be maintained. You could possibly do things like buckwheat as well, or some tall annual grasses, that you can cut later and leave on the "lasagne" mats.
Cardboard would also allow you to cover the bases of the blueberry bushes and it shouldn't harm the roots while it chokes out most of the grass.
I just realized that I should have read all of the replies before I posted this, someone probably already suggested it...but I wrote it so I'll post it! haha.
I think I'm going to go for low carb (with occasional days of very low carb) versus attempted no carb. The drug rep today brought insalata caprese and green beans with ham, along with various sandwiches and a plate of giant cookies. I ate the first two and we'll see if I can stay away from those cookies this afternoon!
(I work in a pediatric office and people bring us food a couple times a week most weeks.)
Swales are typically not a good choice for pastures. They are a tree growing system. Now you could add trees and swales or even just swales to your pastures but you need to fences of the pile of dirt on the downhill side of the swale. That is supposed to be loose packed and animals will compact it. But I think that doing a typical mob grazing setup will fix our problems with less work then swales. Right now we run three cattle, two Jersey cows and a dexter bull. We use a single strand of electric string and move them every couple days. We have a much moister climate then you do, but Allen Savory has done some awesome things with the mob grazing in both africa and texas.
This book was one of the first books on permaculture I got, along with introduction to permaculture by Mollison. Together they clarified what permaculture was. Holmgrens book is more theory and conceptual than Mollisons. It does not go through nuts and bolts of setting up a site, but rather explains each principle in depth and gives a background to the reasoning and function behind the principle.
After reading the book I felt I could look out at my property and apply my own creativity to it. His descriptions of the food chain and resource chain gave me raw ideas about the flows of energy on my property and with my animals. Rather than jumping in and getting overwhelmed with where my hugel goes, what plant will be below my peach tree, best place for a swale etc. i looked at the property and saw how things were moving in and out of the system and how I could make the best use of my own energy to start capturing more and losing less.
I am amazed how small and simple solutions lead to rapid growth and change. I can move slow and be lazy(efficient) and because I made certain choices my trees grow fast and look healthy, my chickens breed on their own and create a yield, and I still have a ton of possibilities for improvement.
I used a non-water based ink (like a laundry marker)
I've tried out loads of markers on blinds/plastic, and I find pencil much more resistant to fading.
But pencil shows up much better on the metal Venetians than plastics
As a bonus, you can actually rub out stuff with an eraser
Free range chickens in my neck of the woods would disappear in a week or two. Predator pressure is very high. EVERYTHING eats chickens. We got scads of raccoons, stray/wild/neglected dogs, stray/wild/neglected cats, hawks, fox, skunks, weasels and coyotes. I probably missed a few.
Mulch is what you see on the forest floor. I'm good with mulch. If you find a living mulch that does even better, good on you. But living mulch is not universally better in every situation. You know, it depends...
I can learn stuff from people who do not share my exact political, or permaculture point of view. I can even learn stuff from the folks doing it wrong and badly, by negative example.
Once you learn how to look at it, everything becomes a knowledge weapon.
Sue Rine wrote:PLEASE, PLEASE do NOT grow comfrey in your garden beds
I'll join in!
As far as I know we only have the sterile Bocking cultivars in NZ
but I'm pretty sure the spreading from root cuttings thing holds if you're growing 'true comfrey'-
plus bonus seeds...
Aside from that, the plants can get really big, and I don't think you'd end up with much room for anything except comfrey
It's one of those maddening "I know it, but..." things
It looks like they're pretty tall plants?
Off topic, but while looking at Lamium images,
I finally got round to finding out that one of my friendly garden 'weeds' is Lamium purpureum thank you-I've been meaning to look it up for years!
It seems that I had forgotten this thread. Sorry guys. I had health issues and had to give up the experiment.
In conclusion, the slugs were still doing well after 3 weeks, when I stopped feeding them. So either the local slugs are particularly healthy, the incubation time was too short or my container was too big (ie. not disguting enough). Either way it didn't work for me.
I did not try spreading the (now dead, thankfully) slugs around the garden. Maybe I should.
Love that you are filming. Song was nice pick. Film them as often as you can. People had by pure chance filmed wonderful things without knowing it. Only after the shots they saw it al in it's true glory.
Anyways I love this guy and I wanted to share it with all of you this video. Enjoy
I had a talk to a bee keeper in the neighbour town, who is producing mead and honey vinegar from his honey. He substitutes a small amount of his own raw unfiltered honey for the commercially availiable vinegar nutrient tablets. He mentioned, that those nutrients are especially important to start the process.
Profound herb to purge the liver. Opens the biliary ducts and pushes outwards into the blood stream. Strong blood cleanser. Laxative to clear out what we hold on to in the gut. High in iron. helps rbc attach to iron. Releases anger so can result in strong emotional outbursts or strong irritability.
Borage – boragia officianus – cold moist and slightly sweet
Calcium potassium and vit C
Adrenal stimulant and duiretic.
Gives courages and releases fear.
Dandalion Leaf - Taraxacum – bitter glycosides
High in potassium. Duiretic, clears out toxins and old wunwanted emotions. Releases fear from the kidneys. Stimulates the hypothalumus in the pituitary gland. Liver and digestive tonic. Vits ABCD.
The best method I know - frugal and low-tech - is a butcher block and two cleavers . Work the cleavers like drum sticks . You can get coarse to very fine consistencies and have fun while your at it . Listen to Benny Goodman and pretend your Gene Krupa or The Who and pretend your Keith Moon . The cleavers could last a lifetime and you might become good enough to start a band .
Each smallish 'silverside' roast is cut in half.
I made a brine ages ago-I evaporated off the water till it was practically a 'saturated salt solution' (ie there's so much salt in the water it won't dissolve anymore)
I have minimal storage and I can always add water when I need it...
I added coriander, pepper corns, whole cloves, bay leaves and allspice.
Topped up the brine with plain water till the meat's covered.
Checked it was waaay more salty than I'd want to eat right now
(my tests are pretty basic..)
Pressed a plate down so the meat's submerged
I leave brine the meat for 5-10 days if I'm freezing it, otherwise it can stay in brine for ages if it's soaked for a day or so to remove salt.