Anni Kelsey wrote:Off the top of my head:
1. Fennel because it looks great and attracts so many insects and birds eat the seeds
2. Daubenton’s kale / ‘other kales left to perennialise’, easy greens and in particular the variegated Daubenton’s is very pretty.
3. Three cornered leek because it is really early and very beautiful. In the US you may not have this, but your ramps would be something like it.
4. Welsh onion or if you don’t have that in the US, tree onions.
5. Blackcurrants – so easy and tasty!
6. Jostaberries – even easier and more productive!
7. Earth nut pea – a small tuber which I am allowing to have more than one year in the ground before harvesting to give it a chance to bulk up a little. But the flowers are amazing and it fixes nitrogen and feeds the insects.
8. Yacon – very reliable harvests.
9. Field beans – sold as green manure but I grow them to eat. Indistinguishable to me from broad beans, very hardy and easy. Bees like the flowers and fixes nitrogen.
10. Lamb’s lettuce – self seeding and early
^^^good ones =) ^^^
i like you added the three cornered leek, allium triquetrum, i am quite fond of it as well, but i discovered its a much hated "weed" to many people, though i cant imagine why since its so nice, IMO.
agreed the earliness of it makes it even more appreciated, in nor cal its at its peak time in december-february, when most everything else is fading away. i've also discovered this makes it a animal/hummingbird favorite, because its abundant when nothing much is around. i was kinda amazed to see how many hummingbirds were all over it.
and oo i so what to play but too many plants come to mind to do a top ten right now. i will think on it maybe post later =)
Here in central eu zone5/6 by the end of october bare rooted trees are dug up and sold.
No marketing here, natures cycles only.
And yes, here it's the best to plant before winter, better growth compared to spring planted trees and shrubs for sure.
"Eat what you store & store what you eat" and "Rotate, rotate, rotate" these are the 2 fundamentals of food storage. don't buy anything you wouldn't normally eat, it'll get left at the back of your storage. look for reduced prices, 3 for 2s, and don't be too proud to clip coupons. don't buy everything in the same store if possible in case there is a batch recall-that way you don't loose everything.
If you are really concerned with contamination you could leach it in some sort of container and draw off the effluent. If you then use the effluent in a mycelia growing environment, you can reduce the contamination as well as get some wonderful additive for your soil that will be of long term benefit.
Thank you both for sharing your experiences. I was concerned that a runner might overrun the poor young trees, so that is useful to know. The strings, however, do sound like a viable option. I'm thinking of sourcing some Painted Lady seeds to give it all a decorative edge, too.
I do basically all my pruning in late summer, which reduces the tree's vigour.
Winter pruning tends to promote growth and I want my trees to be as small as possible!
Your tree isn't likely to need any pruning this season unless it puts on a real growth spurt.
My general rule is to prune any shoots that grow from the trunk or main branches off just below the next espalier wire.
Re the pot: I suggest when the weather starts getting hot, maybe wrap something white around the pot to reflect heat off it?
I often paint plastic pots white for this reason, but your pot's a bit pretty for that
I lived in Melbourne, it was boiling in summer.
I looked briefly, and most of the literature seems to deal with industrial-scale incineration and smelting - I didn't find any good resources for what the health hazard would be on a small scale like that. Compared to emissions from everywhere else, it's probably pretty insignificant, as long as you don't stand in the smoke.
If you could burn at a high enough temperature, that would solve the problem as well.
First, make sure that you have legal access to the water. I'm assuming that the dry land is salty and that it is at a higher elevation than the more productive land. Salt can be washed out. Irrigation alone can add to the salt load. You must provide drainage back to the river. The route to the water must not dump salty water onto your good soil.
Find someone local who irrigates and see how they return water to the river. But first, ensure that the land is salty and that using river water to flush it is legal. Downstream users of the river, will be getting more salt than before. If they are irrigating, this could be a problem. If there is a flood season, when an excess of water rushes to the ocean and is not needed by others, this is the best time to do it.
I've thought a lot about this. Livestock in a place where winters freeze for extended periods of time can be a time, energy and resource suck. The permaculture principle "obtain a yield" feels strained in February blizzards.
I liked having a rabbit tractor for a while but on the whole, one of the biggest yields was just that I liked the rabbits, and we have plenty of wild rabbits to provide rabbit enjoyment. I've designed rabbits out of my system.
This may well have nothing to do with your question David, but just in case...
Even a small amount of fruit acid is enough to prevent botulism,
so the acid levels in chutneys are purely up to personal taste.
For example, I like chutney to be quite high acid and not that sweet
I'd say commercial cider and malt vinegars have similar acidity, and I'd basically do a 1:1 swap.
I find homemade cider vinegar can be quite variable in strength,
but as you're cooking out most of the water, taste the chutney when it's the right thickness for you-
if it needs more acid, add vinegar and reduce the chutney for longer.
If you're concerned that longer cooking will wreck the chutney's texture,
just reduce some vinegar on it's own in a pan and add small amounts to the chutney until it tastes right.
Ronaldo, do you mean taking little bits from next door to inoculate your place?
If that's what you mean, I'd say go for it as it will add diverse communities,
and that's nearly always a good thing
I'm totally predictable, and everything I say is basically "mulch, mulch, mulch, mulch..."
but if you're talking about taking lots/mulching, I'd think about the impact removing stuff will have.
Not sure if the pre-existing mycelium is a problem. I used wood chips that were a few months old but they were pine chips which you're not supposed to use anyway. Then I threw a bit of hardwood thru a chipper and put that on top.
This is definitely an open pollinated variety, so hybrid stuff shouldn't be the problem, right?
Not necessarily so. Most tomato breeds are the work of either a breeder, or Mother Nature.
Breeders often try to find the best qualities of several breeds, and then try to merge them all into one super tomato.
Most of the heirloom tomatoes are the results of cross breeding for specific traits.
An F-1 hybrid will not breed true, but if the breeder selects from only those plants which have the traits he was seeking, and then grows out a second crop (F-2) the next season, he should have a higher percentage of tomatoes with the desired traits. I have heard some breeders claim a fairly stable variety in as little as F4/F5, but those were usually cases where the desired traits were already the dominant gene.
When you are aiming for the recessive trait, it will take more generations to get a stable variety. If you are trying to get 2 or 3 recessive traits bred into a variety, it could take quite a few years to find stability in any quantity.
Many of the breeders here in the States live in the southern states, which allows them to grow 2 crops in a single year. This allows them to reach F-8 within 4 years vs. 8 years.
Perhaps the tomatoes you grew are open pollinated, but are not yet stable. If it's cross pollination, it could have been from the source of your original seeds.
I heard a couple years ago there is a bd practitioner in Peru who developed a gluten free version of kamut or spelt, using bd practices and homeopathic preps. It is or was apparently a registered variety there, under the name 'Condor'.
There is another bd practioner in Italy, who has similarly developed a rye grain that has a head 12 inches long, with 300 grains of rye. Commercial rye usually has around 80 grains. This fellow carries his rye grain head around in a test tube, as his business card.
as far as i know there is no actual word for a vegan who eats honey, and if there was i probably still wouldn't worry about it.
I was calling myself vegan before all the finer points of not wearing leather or eating honey actually became such a big deal, so i consider myself grandfathered in to the vegan club, and occasionally i have gone for years without honey, but maple syrup and the like is just so damn expensive, and i'm not going back to table sugar and corn syrup, although i will probably look at sweet crops i can grow, sorghum or some such, but by the point where i'm truly self sufficient, i probably will only be eating fruit most of the time anyway
When I was living on the ocean I made some sea water extract (ormus) by filling a 50 gallon drum with sea water, then slowly raising the pH to 10.7 with a dilute lye solution (around 1/3 cup of lye in a litre of distilled water) while stirring. I would then let the whitish precipitate settle for a day and siphon the clear solution off the top. This would leave around 5 gallons in the bottom of the barrel. I would refill the barrel with clean water then let the precipitate settle again, siphon off the clear liquid on top, and repeat as many times necessary until the clear liquid when measured with a conductivity meter was about the same as the water I was adding, is until the salt was mostly washed out. I'd pour the precipitate into a 5 gallon bucket and let it settle out further for another couple of weeks. In the end there would be around 2 gallons of precipitate, which from what I understand is mostly calcium hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide, plus all the trace minerals and plankton. I use it mainly for the trace minerals, which are important for building enzymes. Minerals from the sea are of a small size and good availability to plants and microbes.
I think your idea of covering with plastic is a good one, as in changing your tactic. I started this year on a abandoned allotment and did a real thin version of sheetmulching. (http://www.permies.com/forums/posts/list/160/21211#250961) Result: less chaos, but still chaos. For me, it was just a test and my conclusion is that mulching works good on existing garden soil, but not to turn wild weeds into garden soil. The weeds are just too strong. Remember that Ruth Stout did conventional gardening for many years before she started mulching with hay. There was much less weed to supress with the hay...
When I've made 'weed soup', it's an entirely different beast to what people call compost teas.
It's literally plants and water, sometimes with manure and/or seaweed.
It sits and stews for a long time and is anaerobic and hideous smelling.
I don't make it here in town as I don't want to stink out my neighbours
I was taught that using anaerobic 'liquids on the garden is not a good idea as the anaerobic bacteria kill off the desirable aerobic bacteria.
These days I'd go right ahead and use it (diluted) straight on the garden, except...
I avoid contact with the stinky barrel, so regular waterings would be very unappealing!
I'd rather have a few big sessions a year.
Anyone add anaerobic weed soup to the mix when making aerobic compost tea, or turn the soup itself aerobic?
I'd be interested to hear stories of transformation-there are three barrels waiting for me
Peter Ellis wrote:Some thoughts - Permaculture is a design science - so apply the science of permaculture design to the challenge of producing a really optimized value suburban property - and I mean optimized for sale. Don't think of permaculture as forest gardens and perennial vegetables. Think of it as a problem solving toolkit.
You want to improve your permaculture knowledge and skills, which is great, laudable, all kinds of good. You are in a situation that places restrictions on exactly how you may go about exploring and practicing permaculture. That really is not a problem - it helps focus your application of permaculture!
But the details are for you to work out My point is to think about this project in a very permaculture way - what is your desired yield? How do you best achieve that, within the parameters of permaculture? In this case, yield is selling price on the house, so plan in that direction. It will give you tons of permaculture practice.
Peter - Thank you!
This was exactly the advice I needed. Wishing I could do what I want to do right NOW is just dragging me down and killing my enthusiasm for doing anything. Changing my view of the situation to one of "opportunity" rather than "problem" is exactly the thing that I needed to do.
Thanks to everyone else for the practical project advice as well. I have a long winter of planning ahead.
Until our nutrient cycle is fixed I really don't have a problem with importing nutrients to my garden. If you want to grow high quality food (nutrient dense) you are going to export a ton of minerals (phosphorus, calcium, zinc, copper etc.) so you have to return them to the soil somehow (be it rock dust, compost or other fertilizers)
I'm in a very similar situation Miranda, MN, zone 4, tons of oak wilt, beautiful sandy loam soil.
The DNR recommends burning oak wilt wood, OR burying a tarp around/over it for a year and basically baking in to death.
What a waste.
Hugels are a better option and oak wood is great for it, I've built several with oak/poplar/boxelder/whitepine and although they are only a year old, it's showing great promise. I cover cropped them with turnips and radishes this year and tried a few choice spots with rhubarb(great success), tomatoes(some sucess), and squash/melons(needs work)
I also have witnessed 2 edible fungus types "fruiting" from them already, and I didn't even do anything but bury them. Chicken of the woods and oyster.
I'm not sure if they are out competing the oak wilt fungus, but I think since oak wilt needs spores to spread keeping the wood completely buried is going to eventually smother them. Just make sure to use enough soil on top and add thick organic mulch the first year otherwise they'll dry out. This thread can help with alot of questions.
If you have oak wilt it's not going away. It's kind of a fact of life in my area of MN. Sad but true.
Hackberries, any maple, and birch grow fast if you are looking to replace them.
- Its the sneaky-high pitched voice saying " But you/he said - " That makes me see red and thump the computer table so hard my Hand-stitched sampler ,
The one that says ''Be nice-play fair'' falls off of the wall!
The over day one got to me Sooo-bad it cracked my little boys heart, or rather the glass jug I keep it in, bottom left drawer ! If there is just one thing that
pisses me of its the other guys (sneaky) intolerance ! FOR THE GOOD OF THE CRAFTS whether they realize it or not ! Big AL
Joseph Fields wrote:Last year I could not figure out why my sheep were refusing to touch the grass. I have two huge crab apple trees that were loaded down. The sheep sat under the apple trees and ate them as they fell.
kristi campbell wrote: What would be manually the easiest, quickest way to disperse this around my garden. Is there a method or gardening appliance anyone can reccomend-for a chick on her own with a mending fractured wrist?
Welcome to permies kristi
Yeah, is there a time frame due to er, 'societal pressures',
protecting the soil over a Northern hemisphere winter or a Southern hemisphere summer, etc?
Here's a useful thread if you'd like to add your location.
The only way I've moved chip is with a wheelbarrow, fork and shovel-
it is not the kind of thing I'd suggest for someone with a broken wrist.
I agree with others that it's a 'calling in the troops' scenario if the chip needs to move.
Do you have a local timebank? If you're involved with a community group, religious organisations etc...
I've been doing stuff with intellectually disabled adults for ages, and they often do this kind of stuff where I am.
If lacking wheelbarrows/tools but not helpers, you can just lay cheap tarpaulin(s) at the pile's base,
push chips onto it, carry it two corners each, dump and kick it around to spread
If you get helpers, the chip's been sitting around and the weather's been dry,
I suggest being prepared to either provide those basic dust masks, or water the pile as you go.
I don't do it for myself, but a pile can get some impressive fungal activity and the spores can apparently be a bit hard on some.