In my world, there is no such thing as 'too frugal'!
I grow a lot of tomatoes for freezing/bottling, and if a tomato is about to go off due to...whatever...
I just cut out the 'whatever' and add the tomato to the bucket in the freezer.
Every year I try to focus on a plant I can't grow.
This is the year of the aubergine/eggplant.
They either need a much longer and warmer summer than I can give them, or extra help.
I use 'retired' perspex slot machine screens as mini greenhouses.
I drill holes in the corners and wire them together.
I'm very fond of this plant: mignonette It doesn't look like much, but it smells fantastic and insects are mad for it
I don't know what sub species this one is, but it's in its second season after I brutally hacked it back...
I was about to say I've never seen a sloe, but wiki says it's naturalised here so I probably have without realising!
I will check around in sloe season.
As the alcohol is the the preservative and I'm never in a hurry (sugar speeds these processes right up), I'd reduce the sugar to suit my tastes.
Also, no need to prick the fruit if your freezing them-
freezing expands the water in cells, bursting the cell walls and doing the work for you
For the past 4 months I've been using an organic seaweed spray on them. I came across that when working out why the hedge plants look so ill (yellow and brown with curled up leaves with the occasional red spots!). I figured this must be lime induced chlorosis even though the plants are suited to alkaline soil (which is what it is around here), they are probably deficient in nutrients because of what they were planted in. The main ones being magnesium, calcium and iron which are in the seaweed. Ever since starting a strict regime of 15ml seaweed to 5 litres of water applied as a foliar spray every Tuesday just before it gets dark (yes that strict), the plants started producing healthy looking leaves and became less ill looking. By the time it gets to the next spray day they are looking ill again. I think this spray contains all the nutrients they get and it seems like they're dependant on it so as soon as I get some soil in there the better.
It freezes here in UK zone 7. My order of 18 trees and some other plants will arrive in December when it's likely to be frozen and I'm planting them all by myself *brrrrrr*. I think the poor hedge will have to be replanted at the end of December when dormant. I would wait a few months more but I'm not sure if that would be good for them.
The seaweed is supposed to be applied during the growing months and I'm not sure if this applies to this situation. At the same time as providing nutrients it is making them grow extra fast and be healthy but the down side is that they are becoming bigger and less manageable for replanting. Do you think I should stop spraying them this month or continue?
Elaeagnus is supposed to be invasive in some parts of the US so hopefully they will be vigorous enough to make a full recovery!
Does anyone know if you can nixtamalize cornmeal after it has already been ground and stored? I make a lot of polenta for my family, and would like to incorporate the benefits of this process - via wood ash, since we have that in abundance. I would assume the process would be similar to what is done with whole corn kernels, but I don't want to, I don't know, kill us all (I often have these irrational fears, but when dealing with lye, maybe not so irrational). I'm not quite ready to grow our own corn, though that's in the long-term plan, so I'd be buying already-ground coarse cornmeal from the health food store.
And if it is possible, what kind of ratio of wood ash to water to cornmeal would be appropriate? Would I soak the cornmeal overnight in the lye solution and then rinse? Any help is appreciated!
Send me a PM with your address. I would love to share this amazing corn.
As an aside, there is an unusual way of eating this corn for breakfast that he taught me.
Toast the dried corn kernels in a cast iron skillet on low heat until the smell becomes intoxicating. Cool, grind and cook into a porridge with fruit and pine nuts.
I've been looking into slug species (as you do),
and it appears that the vast majority are either compost munchers, or carnivores.
Apparently the seething hordes of skinny dark-and-light-grey numbers are the only ones into live plants.
The big fat carnivores appear to be totally disinterested in my slug pubs-
I've only caught vegetarians so far
Still interested to know what the gummosis might be the result of...but I did speak with someone who assured me I'd be receiving a full refund for the peaches. It's quite comedic...the email reply that I posted was from the owner of the nursery...the gentleman I spoke with over the phone was someone else who works there but who basically said 'this is unacceptable' and offered the refund or credit towards a future order. Considering the quality of plants I received from them, I went for the refund.
Thank you all for your time...and maybe someone will know what this disease is?
Check out gokhalemethod.com - I do the shoulder rolls regularly and they are very helpful. I also have her book and am working my way through it, I think it is helping my back pain and posture issues.
I second the suggestion to work towards doing pull-ups - I have woeful upper body strength but have started exercises such as knee push-ups and dead hangs to get stronger. I definitely feel more stability in my upper body and core since starting this.
Most restaurants I've worked all had 3 ring binder recipe books.
When I worked with lots of volunteers at a place called three stone hearth, the KIM was indispensable, with large scale recipes and tons of cooking, cleaning and procedures all laid out for volunteers to follow.
For our purposes there is some material (canning charts) that are standardized and we could all use yet other parts that must be Taylored to specific situations (family recipe book) but still could be shared.
Additionally, let's include lots of links to online resources and youtube videos, etc. so this suggests the KIM be on a tablet or smartphone. Did anyone just realize a pkitchen app that was open sourced could be a revolutionary possibility? What about a pkitchen wiki?
The KIm also, reminds me a bit of the Victorian housewives' manual which covered both kitchen and house issues. Now we have added in farm or homestead topics. A bit of a how to hack your life meets reference book that would be personalized to each situation.
Leila Rich wrote:The third photo looks like some kind of convolvulus.
Maybe a field bindweed?
In my experience, basically anything from this family are a menace...
I take that sweeping generalisation back!
We have an endemic convolvulus that just sunbathes quietly above the high tide line
and there's bound to be other nice, polite convolvulus out there
i dont like them personally. they make my very short enemy plant list, i hate to use the invasive word, but they really are. i think like bindweed they have roots that go down really deep, like 30 feet deep once it digs in. thats why they are so impossible to get rid of....i know of no god uses for them at all.
Anni Kelsey wrote:Off the top of my head:
1. Fennel because it looks great and attracts so many insects and birds eat the seeds
2. Daubenton’s kale / ‘other kales left to perennialise’, easy greens and in particular the variegated Daubenton’s is very pretty.
3. Three cornered leek because it is really early and very beautiful. In the US you may not have this, but your ramps would be something like it.
4. Welsh onion or if you don’t have that in the US, tree onions.
5. Blackcurrants – so easy and tasty!
6. Jostaberries – even easier and more productive!
7. Earth nut pea – a small tuber which I am allowing to have more than one year in the ground before harvesting to give it a chance to bulk up a little. But the flowers are amazing and it fixes nitrogen and feeds the insects.
8. Yacon – very reliable harvests.
9. Field beans – sold as green manure but I grow them to eat. Indistinguishable to me from broad beans, very hardy and easy. Bees like the flowers and fixes nitrogen.
10. Lamb’s lettuce – self seeding and early
^^^good ones =) ^^^
i like you added the three cornered leek, allium triquetrum, i am quite fond of it as well, but i discovered its a much hated "weed" to many people, though i cant imagine why since its so nice, IMO.
agreed the earliness of it makes it even more appreciated, in nor cal its at its peak time in december-february, when most everything else is fading away. i've also discovered this makes it a animal/hummingbird favorite, because its abundant when nothing much is around. i was kinda amazed to see how many hummingbirds were all over it.
and oo i so what to play but too many plants come to mind to do a top ten right now. i will think on it maybe post later =)
Here in central eu zone5/6 by the end of october bare rooted trees are dug up and sold.
No marketing here, natures cycles only.
And yes, here it's the best to plant before winter, better growth compared to spring planted trees and shrubs for sure.
"Eat what you store & store what you eat" and "Rotate, rotate, rotate" these are the 2 fundamentals of food storage. don't buy anything you wouldn't normally eat, it'll get left at the back of your storage. look for reduced prices, 3 for 2s, and don't be too proud to clip coupons. don't buy everything in the same store if possible in case there is a batch recall-that way you don't loose everything.
If you are really concerned with contamination you could leach it in some sort of container and draw off the effluent. If you then use the effluent in a mycelia growing environment, you can reduce the contamination as well as get some wonderful additive for your soil that will be of long term benefit.
Thank you both for sharing your experiences. I was concerned that a runner might overrun the poor young trees, so that is useful to know. The strings, however, do sound like a viable option. I'm thinking of sourcing some Painted Lady seeds to give it all a decorative edge, too.
I do basically all my pruning in late summer, which reduces the tree's vigour.
Winter pruning tends to promote growth and I want my trees to be as small as possible!
Your tree isn't likely to need any pruning this season unless it puts on a real growth spurt.
My general rule is to prune any shoots that grow from the trunk or main branches off just below the next espalier wire.
Re the pot: I suggest when the weather starts getting hot, maybe wrap something white around the pot to reflect heat off it?
I often paint plastic pots white for this reason, but your pot's a bit pretty for that
I lived in Melbourne, it was boiling in summer.
I looked briefly, and most of the literature seems to deal with industrial-scale incineration and smelting - I didn't find any good resources for what the health hazard would be on a small scale like that. Compared to emissions from everywhere else, it's probably pretty insignificant, as long as you don't stand in the smoke.
If you could burn at a high enough temperature, that would solve the problem as well.
First, make sure that you have legal access to the water. I'm assuming that the dry land is salty and that it is at a higher elevation than the more productive land. Salt can be washed out. Irrigation alone can add to the salt load. You must provide drainage back to the river. The route to the water must not dump salty water onto your good soil.
Find someone local who irrigates and see how they return water to the river. But first, ensure that the land is salty and that using river water to flush it is legal. Downstream users of the river, will be getting more salt than before. If they are irrigating, this could be a problem. If there is a flood season, when an excess of water rushes to the ocean and is not needed by others, this is the best time to do it.