Jeanine Gurley wrote:I have now gone back to planting my the moonsigns.
When I originally shifted from ornamentals to edibles I planted by moonsigns on the advice of my aunt. She did not garden, she raised pigs. I don't know anything about raising pigs but, according to her there were lots of things that she only did by the moon signs - and that also extended to her own life, such as when to schedule surgeries, etc.
My aunt was influenced by her parents and her grandparents who always planted by the signs.
I abandoned the moon signs planting over the last year.
I did harvest food - but it was not impressive. Whereas the previous year I was over run with food.
So this fall planting I am back to the moon signs. I am also dry planting. No watering - all hoses are rolled up and put away. I also intend to severly limit the number of seedlings started in containers. I want to start all (except peppers) plants in the ground out doors. Since we are so temperate here this should work for most plants.
The first planting was NOT according to the moon sign. Some stuff came up.
The next plantings HAVE been planted according to the signs. Lots of seedlings have come up - some seem to just jump up in a couple of days.
Garlic is my main squeeze around here - love my garlic. I probably did plant it according to the signs last year since I am so particular about it. This year I will narrow the planting dates down even further to find the best possible moon to plant it in. It too will recieve no supplemental watering until harvest in May/June.
I have never made compost tea using biodynamic methods but I am going to try to find a 'recipe' and try it.
I'm in a tropical wet/dry area. I'm also interested in planting by the moon phases. Thank you for starting the topic.
Do you know of any free resources that are a bit more detailed than the general planting calendars one finds on the net? Biodynamic farming is relatively popular in India, but I've never found a calendar created by an experienced BD farmer for my region.
Micky Ewing wrote:Making a living or partial living by diverting resources from the waste stream of society is one of the noblest things you can do. I think Dale's posts on deconstruction and salvage of old buildings is some of the most inspiring writing I have found on Permies.com.
Thank you Mickey. I fully acknowledge that I am a vulture living on the carcass of a failed society. The buildings that I dismember usually cost the developer about $10,000 to have them removed. My price is usually about $1000 less than it costs if they smash it all and it goes to the dump. If the building in question is a single family house, it is generally replaced by something costing more than $500,000 and in several cases the replacement has cost several million. The one thousand savings does not drive the activity of replacing perfectly acceptable homes with palaces.
Hundreds of reasonably sized, useful buildings have been constructed from this bounty.
I won't be as heavily involved in this in the future. Almost a year ago, I filmed some very questionable dumping activity. Recyclable drywall was being loaded into 60 yard demo trailers, then covered with wood waste and hauled to an Indian reserve for open pit burning. My video was used in investigations conducted by the Ministry of the Environment. I was assured that my involvement would not be revealed. A couple months ago, I was outed by the loose lips of someone fairly low on the totem pole. They blabbed to a relative of one of our worst polluters. Jobs have become more difficult for me to secure as a result. I'm not sure what my next move will be. Any system that I am shut out of, rises to the top of the list of things I'd prefer to destroy.
Joslyn Bloodworth wrote:So adding fresh dirt out of my compost pile as well as things like the poo from my neighbors horses and compost tea along with regular tilling between crops should do me?
That should work quite well. Horse manure is an excellent amendment for desert soils, since not being ruminants, their poo still has fibrous vegetation that isn't as broken down. More to break down means more to feed to soil food web.
You could consider adding nut trees, especially in edges and clearings as the young trees will appreciate a bit of sunlight. There are several natives and exotics adapted to your climate to consider....walnuts, hickories, oaks, chestnuts, etc.
Leila Rich wrote:I have no idea why, but Australasia has really high infection rates. Check this out!
The bacteria are also common in bagged compost/potting mix, and there's always warnings to avoid inhaling when opening bags.
Cooling towers in air conditioning systems are the most common culprit. This snippet from Wikipedia shows critical temperature range. Locations that contain many antiquated AC systems give many opportunities for infection. The bacteria are endemic almost everywhere. Population levels are related to temperature. The natural environment in many places can spend long periods in the critical temperature range. Everything from rain barrels to bags of compost to water left in the bathtub would be at the right temperature for a population explosion.
* Above 70 °C (158 °F) - Legionella dies almost instantly
* At 60 °C (140 °F) - 90% die in 2 minutes (Decimal reduction time (D) = 2)
* At 50 °C (122 °F) - 90% die in 80–124 minutes, depending on strain (Decimal reduction time (D) = 80-124)
* 48 to 50 °C (118 to 122 °F) - Can survive but do not multiply
* 32 to 42 °C (90 to 108 °F) - Ideal growth range * 25 to 45 °C (77 to 113 °F) - Growth range
* Below 20 °C (68 °F) - Can survive but are dormant, even below freezing
HAHAHAHAHAAHAHAAHAH particle accelerators at there best.
USE A HUGE AMOUNT OF RESOURCES AND GET VERY LITTLE IN RETURN.
We will definatly run out of helium due to particle physics. Thanks cern and the L.H.C.
Have you seen the amount of energy that is required to make that thing run. LOL. Tera volts A thousand million volts x 7 per run HA Whats next?
Higgs boson. What could be so important that we squander huge amounts of our resourcwes wehile people starve.
I truely am not laughing.
John Elliott wrote:Some bamboos are more palatable than others. They contain differing amounts of cyanogenic (meaning it produces cyanide) glycosides that can be a problem for species that do not have the gut chemistry to process the cyanides. We humans don't have that gut chemistry, but we have learned how to cook, and boiling bamboo shoots is how we take care of that.
If you want to locate a species of bamboo that (a) is a palatable fodder and (b) grows in the the cold climate of Ohio, the first place for you to start would be the Coastal Georgia Botanical Garden where they have a collection of over 150 species of bamboo. I would say "from all over the world", but bamboo is not from all over the world, it is a plant that is endemic to Eastern Asia. Bamboo that you find in other places has been brought there by man. But as far as a permaculture, it is an excellent plant to consider, since it will propagate from the roots and keep a continuous stand growing for years and years.
Although eastern Asia has the most bamboo species, South America has many native bamboo species, central America and Africa also have a number of native bamboos, and there are 3 bamboos (Arundinaria gigantea, A. tecta, A. appalachiana) native to the eastern United States. In addition to past overgrazing, the spread of invasive non-native plants such as Japanese honeysuckle, Chinese wisteria, and privet into its habitat has limited its comeback.
I'm growing several Phyllostachys species, Semiarundinaria, and Hibanobambusa here in upstate SC that I use as fodder to feed my sheep in late winter after they have grazed the grass down in their pastures.
This is a pretty old thread now, but I'll put my 2 cents in. I built one of these that is basically a garden cart up on one 24" bicycle wheel. It is not designed to do that. It was as one poster said, top heavy, difficult to steer, and impossible to push uphill with any weight at all. The biggest problem was the top heaviness. That does not mean it does not work though. The traditional design is to have a large wheel in the center and a shelf around the wheel at or a little above axle level. That makes it not top heavy at all and easy to steer. It is not designed to carry loose material like dirt. It is designed to carry baskets, boxes, etc that you can set on the shelf and tie it on so it doesn't fall off.
I will say too, that if you pack it such that you have to be pushing the handles down while walking, then you can't get traction pushing it up a hill. So put heavier things in back.
It is not a replacement for the common western wheelbarrow; they do different tasks. Where the western wheelbarrow is for carrying a lot of weight/material (especially loose material) a short distance, the Chinese wheelbarrow is for carrying containers, baskets, bricks, lumber?, even people of heavier weight a longer distance. Most people would obviously rather use a car or truck or bicycle for that purpose. So I think it is a great invention if you have a practical reason to use it over your car. An article I read about it was saying that it came about during a long recession when infrastructure was really falling apart especially roads. So it was a way to carry heavy loads long distances on foot paths. 2-wheeled carts were used before that, but they require wide level roads.
Possible modern uses:
You really really hate cars and want to be able to carry heavy material somewhere.
You have a long entrance to your house on a narrow or rough path where cars cannot go/are not allowed.
You have a large farm or such and need to push a lot of weight on side-hill paths.
You just like tinkering.
I think I fall into the 1st and last categories, mostly the last.
It's best to use lavandin hybrids or crosses meant for oil production, if you're gonna try the lavender.
Leila Rich wrote:I'm not familiar with fungal issues. So knocking back unwanted fungi, and supporting/replacing with beneficial ones...
How about I spray a mix of lavender and chamomile (knock back), then raw milk (support), then 'fungal' compost tea (replace)?
That's how it's been best described to me. Sanitize, repopulate, then cultivate your beneficial friends to fight any future needs. Trichoderma could obviously fit in there, as well.
I've had bad luck foliar spraying compost teas. BUT, good compost is hard to find and I was using mass produced, bagged and purchased compost. A mistake by me. Improperly made/finished compost can do the opposite of what you want. A couple of experiences with bad compost made me stick to EM and milk for foliars.
Fungal infections are hard once established. Rest of this season may be practice for the winter/next spring.
And your Lord inspired to thebee, "Take for yourself among the mountains, houses, and among the trees and [in] that which they construct
Then eat from all the fruits and follow the ways of your Lord laid down [for you]." There emerges from their bellies a drink, varying in colors, in which there is healing for people
We've always been teflon free. Stainless steel for everything - with the exception of pressure cookers. Currently my wife is using a mix of all-clad and revere. Cast iron is just too damn heavy for her and since we share the cooking - it makes more sense to buy pots and pans that she's able to lift.
I compost outdoors, and indoors with a traditional heap and worms. My outdoor heap I keep going all winter with hot composting methods and I turn it quite often. Id say every other day or so. In the winter, I dont have to worry about watering since the snow melts into it from the heat. In the summer I will water as needed. i just check it when I turn it.
There are generally two types of question I receive about my product. The first is would The IntensiFire work well in my stove? To which my response is usually a repeat of the laboratory report commented on earlier in this thread, an increase in the heat delivered into your house from every piece of wood you put in your fire from around 50% to about 75%. If they haven't sent me the make and model (which isn't necessarily determinative) I then ask for photographs or drawings, particularly of the inside around the flue exit area.
The second and very common query I get asks "I can't see any information on how it fits to my stove". With the three winters I have been selling these for in New Zealand my interpretation of this question is "I can't see how I can build one for myself". It also contains the presumption that the questioner has the ability to both understand my technology to successfully duplicate it and to know it is possible to convert their stove. I find this type of person usually wastes my time in email exchanges that have even gone to the extreme of some people asking me for plans or they won't buy it! It is actually very simple and thus easy to copy, but not easy to copy it right. I don't want lots of bad copies giving the technology a bad reputation, which has actually happened to me here in New Zealand in a small way.
The question to you Lenny is why wouldn't you want your stove to be 50% more efficient? Some further questions. How old is your stove, or how long has it been inefficient and polluting? How long will your stove last? And do you intend to continue to let it be polluting and inefficient for the rest of its life?
The difficulty I face as the inventor is actually making this affordable but at the same time making it fit the many different models of stove out there. I realised three years ago when I invented this technology its significance that other people would want it. I have continued, unpaid and in debt to date, to solve the problems associated with it while at the same time fighting people that would take of my time and effort for free.
The other question is do you want me to continue to develop this technology towards what at this points seems revolutionary in terms of emissions? Most electricity doesn't even come without an environmental cost so the only sustainable fuel better than zero emission wood is passive solar. Well that I can think of right now. I can't do this unpaid forever.
Yes the technology will fit your stove Lenny but it isn't an off the shelf solution. If you are interested then please PM me some drawings of the internal dimension of the internal structure of the stove. There will have to be custom made components and I have to work out the best way to have these made for you.
BTW I am only just back in New Zealand to finally find out that the challenge of making the Wood Stove Design Challenge pushed me beyond my ability to cope. I didn't realise it but I contracted pneumonia half way through the competition and still have it. Looking forward to some R&R to recover.
PS. There was also a later correction on the rankings. IntensiFire placed 2nd= for affordability and 3rd for innovation.
Thanks for the uplink. Good info. Be nice. I like it. Maybe it could be posted to new members to remind them before they begin. I would hate to get banned. I am kind of all over the place. Much of what I have is falling into the becarefull zone. I will be vigilent.
You know - I don't remember what the variety of blackberry was - it was thornless though. And I also remembered that I did, indeed, try horseradish once about 5 yrs ago. As I recall, it did put off some new growth in spring (planted in late fall) but then just disappeared in the summer and never reappeared. I'll be interested in if you are successful with these plants. Although you guys can typically grow more stuff than we do just because you are slightly cooler and you get more rain. Where I am in downtown Phoenix is also a somewhat superheated microclimate unto itself.
And I totally agree with you about artichoke flowers - they are divine!!
Steve Nicolini wrote:Isn't it edible in small quantities? I heard it is a significant source of vitamin B12 (for all you veggies).
From the British Medical Journal, 13 August 1977
Vitamin B12 for vegans
We read your expert's reply (11 June, p 1525) and Mr Alan Long's letter (16 July, p 192) on vegan sources of vitamin B12 with interest. Beliefs that the comfrey plant (Symphytum officinale) is a natural source of vitamin B12 persist and are repeated in the current catalogue of at least one firm of horticultural seedsmen and another specialist supplier of herbal products. We therefore extracted 12.5 g of freshly picked comfrey leaves by boiling in 500 ml acetate buffer (pH 5.0) containing 0.01% sodium cyanide in preparation for assay(1). No vitamin B12 was detected in the extract using the Euglena gracilis var bacillaris z-strain assay(2); this implies a vitamin B12 concentration of less than 10 ng/l of extract. Thus 1 kg (2.2 lb) of fresh comfrey leaves could at most have contained 400 ng (0.4 µg) of vitamin B12. We therefore conclude that comfrey leaves are not relevant as a source of vitamin BI2 in mixed, vegetarian, or vegan diets.
RICHARD W PAYNE
BRIAN F SAVAGE
Department of Pathology,
Worcester Royal Infirmary,
(1) Gray, L F, and Daniel, L J,Journal of Nutrition, 1959, 67, 623.
(2) Hutner, S H, Bach, M K, and Ross, G I M, Journal of Protozoology, 1956, 3, 101.
Go for it. The three sisters is a basic design element that worked for the indiginous people of northern America long before the europeans arrived. The practice and the results can very greatly depending on who taught you how to garden. One of the things people tend to forget is that the natives put the waste from thier fishing in the hole they were growing in. Thus nitrogen and fertilzer were taken care of. If you are not satisfied with the results, change the plants up but keep the basic types of plants together. Have a great day.