Send me a PM with your address. I would love to share this amazing corn.
As an aside, there is an unusual way of eating this corn for breakfast that he taught me.
Toast the dried corn kernels in a cast iron skillet on low heat until the smell becomes intoxicating. Cool, grind and cook into a porridge with fruit and pine nuts.
I've been looking into slug species (as you do),
and it appears that the vast majority are either compost munchers, or carnivores.
Apparently the seething hordes of skinny dark-and-light-grey numbers are the only ones into live plants.
The big fat carnivores appear to be totally disinterested in my slug pubs-
I've only caught vegetarians so far
Still interested to know what the gummosis might be the result of...but I did speak with someone who assured me I'd be receiving a full refund for the peaches. It's quite comedic...the email reply that I posted was from the owner of the nursery...the gentleman I spoke with over the phone was someone else who works there but who basically said 'this is unacceptable' and offered the refund or credit towards a future order. Considering the quality of plants I received from them, I went for the refund.
Thank you all for your time...and maybe someone will know what this disease is?
Check out gokhalemethod.com - I do the shoulder rolls regularly and they are very helpful. I also have her book and am working my way through it, I think it is helping my back pain and posture issues.
I second the suggestion to work towards doing pull-ups - I have woeful upper body strength but have started exercises such as knee push-ups and dead hangs to get stronger. I definitely feel more stability in my upper body and core since starting this.
Most restaurants I've worked all had 3 ring binder recipe books.
When I worked with lots of volunteers at a place called three stone hearth, the KIM was indispensable, with large scale recipes and tons of cooking, cleaning and procedures all laid out for volunteers to follow.
For our purposes there is some material (canning charts) that are standardized and we could all use yet other parts that must be Taylored to specific situations (family recipe book) but still could be shared.
Additionally, let's include lots of links to online resources and youtube videos, etc. so this suggests the KIM be on a tablet or smartphone. Did anyone just realize a pkitchen app that was open sourced could be a revolutionary possibility? What about a pkitchen wiki?
The KIm also, reminds me a bit of the Victorian housewives' manual which covered both kitchen and house issues. Now we have added in farm or homestead topics. A bit of a how to hack your life meets reference book that would be personalized to each situation.
Leila Rich wrote:The third photo looks like some kind of convolvulus.
Maybe a field bindweed?
In my experience, basically anything from this family are a menace...
I take that sweeping generalisation back!
We have an endemic convolvulus that just sunbathes quietly above the high tide line
and there's bound to be other nice, polite convolvulus out there
i dont like them personally. they make my very short enemy plant list, i hate to use the invasive word, but they really are. i think like bindweed they have roots that go down really deep, like 30 feet deep once it digs in. thats why they are so impossible to get rid of....i know of no god uses for them at all.
Anni Kelsey wrote:Off the top of my head:
1. Fennel because it looks great and attracts so many insects and birds eat the seeds
2. Daubenton’s kale / ‘other kales left to perennialise’, easy greens and in particular the variegated Daubenton’s is very pretty.
3. Three cornered leek because it is really early and very beautiful. In the US you may not have this, but your ramps would be something like it.
4. Welsh onion or if you don’t have that in the US, tree onions.
5. Blackcurrants – so easy and tasty!
6. Jostaberries – even easier and more productive!
7. Earth nut pea – a small tuber which I am allowing to have more than one year in the ground before harvesting to give it a chance to bulk up a little. But the flowers are amazing and it fixes nitrogen and feeds the insects.
8. Yacon – very reliable harvests.
9. Field beans – sold as green manure but I grow them to eat. Indistinguishable to me from broad beans, very hardy and easy. Bees like the flowers and fixes nitrogen.
10. Lamb’s lettuce – self seeding and early
^^^good ones =) ^^^
i like you added the three cornered leek, allium triquetrum, i am quite fond of it as well, but i discovered its a much hated "weed" to many people, though i cant imagine why since its so nice, IMO.
agreed the earliness of it makes it even more appreciated, in nor cal its at its peak time in december-february, when most everything else is fading away. i've also discovered this makes it a animal/hummingbird favorite, because its abundant when nothing much is around. i was kinda amazed to see how many hummingbirds were all over it.
and oo i so what to play but too many plants come to mind to do a top ten right now. i will think on it maybe post later =)
Here in central eu zone5/6 by the end of october bare rooted trees are dug up and sold.
No marketing here, natures cycles only.
And yes, here it's the best to plant before winter, better growth compared to spring planted trees and shrubs for sure.
"Eat what you store & store what you eat" and "Rotate, rotate, rotate" these are the 2 fundamentals of food storage. don't buy anything you wouldn't normally eat, it'll get left at the back of your storage. look for reduced prices, 3 for 2s, and don't be too proud to clip coupons. don't buy everything in the same store if possible in case there is a batch recall-that way you don't loose everything.
If you are really concerned with contamination you could leach it in some sort of container and draw off the effluent. If you then use the effluent in a mycelia growing environment, you can reduce the contamination as well as get some wonderful additive for your soil that will be of long term benefit.
Thank you both for sharing your experiences. I was concerned that a runner might overrun the poor young trees, so that is useful to know. The strings, however, do sound like a viable option. I'm thinking of sourcing some Painted Lady seeds to give it all a decorative edge, too.
I do basically all my pruning in late summer, which reduces the tree's vigour.
Winter pruning tends to promote growth and I want my trees to be as small as possible!
Your tree isn't likely to need any pruning this season unless it puts on a real growth spurt.
My general rule is to prune any shoots that grow from the trunk or main branches off just below the next espalier wire.
Re the pot: I suggest when the weather starts getting hot, maybe wrap something white around the pot to reflect heat off it?
I often paint plastic pots white for this reason, but your pot's a bit pretty for that
I lived in Melbourne, it was boiling in summer.
I looked briefly, and most of the literature seems to deal with industrial-scale incineration and smelting - I didn't find any good resources for what the health hazard would be on a small scale like that. Compared to emissions from everywhere else, it's probably pretty insignificant, as long as you don't stand in the smoke.
If you could burn at a high enough temperature, that would solve the problem as well.
First, make sure that you have legal access to the water. I'm assuming that the dry land is salty and that it is at a higher elevation than the more productive land. Salt can be washed out. Irrigation alone can add to the salt load. You must provide drainage back to the river. The route to the water must not dump salty water onto your good soil.
Find someone local who irrigates and see how they return water to the river. But first, ensure that the land is salty and that using river water to flush it is legal. Downstream users of the river, will be getting more salt than before. If they are irrigating, this could be a problem. If there is a flood season, when an excess of water rushes to the ocean and is not needed by others, this is the best time to do it.
I've thought a lot about this. Livestock in a place where winters freeze for extended periods of time can be a time, energy and resource suck. The permaculture principle "obtain a yield" feels strained in February blizzards.
I liked having a rabbit tractor for a while but on the whole, one of the biggest yields was just that I liked the rabbits, and we have plenty of wild rabbits to provide rabbit enjoyment. I've designed rabbits out of my system.
This may well have nothing to do with your question David, but just in case...
Even a small amount of fruit acid is enough to prevent botulism,
so the acid levels in chutneys are purely up to personal taste.
For example, I like chutney to be quite high acid and not that sweet
I'd say commercial cider and malt vinegars have similar acidity, and I'd basically do a 1:1 swap.
I find homemade cider vinegar can be quite variable in strength,
but as you're cooking out most of the water, taste the chutney when it's the right thickness for you-
if it needs more acid, add vinegar and reduce the chutney for longer.
If you're concerned that longer cooking will wreck the chutney's texture,
just reduce some vinegar on it's own in a pan and add small amounts to the chutney until it tastes right.
Ronaldo, do you mean taking little bits from next door to inoculate your place?
If that's what you mean, I'd say go for it as it will add diverse communities,
and that's nearly always a good thing
I'm totally predictable, and everything I say is basically "mulch, mulch, mulch, mulch..."
but if you're talking about taking lots/mulching, I'd think about the impact removing stuff will have.
Not sure if the pre-existing mycelium is a problem. I used wood chips that were a few months old but they were pine chips which you're not supposed to use anyway. Then I threw a bit of hardwood thru a chipper and put that on top.
This is definitely an open pollinated variety, so hybrid stuff shouldn't be the problem, right?
Not necessarily so. Most tomato breeds are the work of either a breeder, or Mother Nature.
Breeders often try to find the best qualities of several breeds, and then try to merge them all into one super tomato.
Most of the heirloom tomatoes are the results of cross breeding for specific traits.
An F-1 hybrid will not breed true, but if the breeder selects from only those plants which have the traits he was seeking, and then grows out a second crop (F-2) the next season, he should have a higher percentage of tomatoes with the desired traits. I have heard some breeders claim a fairly stable variety in as little as F4/F5, but those were usually cases where the desired traits were already the dominant gene.
When you are aiming for the recessive trait, it will take more generations to get a stable variety. If you are trying to get 2 or 3 recessive traits bred into a variety, it could take quite a few years to find stability in any quantity.
Many of the breeders here in the States live in the southern states, which allows them to grow 2 crops in a single year. This allows them to reach F-8 within 4 years vs. 8 years.
Perhaps the tomatoes you grew are open pollinated, but are not yet stable. If it's cross pollination, it could have been from the source of your original seeds.
I heard a couple years ago there is a bd practitioner in Peru who developed a gluten free version of kamut or spelt, using bd practices and homeopathic preps. It is or was apparently a registered variety there, under the name 'Condor'.
There is another bd practioner in Italy, who has similarly developed a rye grain that has a head 12 inches long, with 300 grains of rye. Commercial rye usually has around 80 grains. This fellow carries his rye grain head around in a test tube, as his business card.
as far as i know there is no actual word for a vegan who eats honey, and if there was i probably still wouldn't worry about it.
I was calling myself vegan before all the finer points of not wearing leather or eating honey actually became such a big deal, so i consider myself grandfathered in to the vegan club, and occasionally i have gone for years without honey, but maple syrup and the like is just so damn expensive, and i'm not going back to table sugar and corn syrup, although i will probably look at sweet crops i can grow, sorghum or some such, but by the point where i'm truly self sufficient, i probably will only be eating fruit most of the time anyway
When I was living on the ocean I made some sea water extract (ormus) by filling a 50 gallon drum with sea water, then slowly raising the pH to 10.7 with a dilute lye solution (around 1/3 cup of lye in a litre of distilled water) while stirring. I would then let the whitish precipitate settle for a day and siphon the clear solution off the top. This would leave around 5 gallons in the bottom of the barrel. I would refill the barrel with clean water then let the precipitate settle again, siphon off the clear liquid on top, and repeat as many times necessary until the clear liquid when measured with a conductivity meter was about the same as the water I was adding, is until the salt was mostly washed out. I'd pour the precipitate into a 5 gallon bucket and let it settle out further for another couple of weeks. In the end there would be around 2 gallons of precipitate, which from what I understand is mostly calcium hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide, plus all the trace minerals and plankton. I use it mainly for the trace minerals, which are important for building enzymes. Minerals from the sea are of a small size and good availability to plants and microbes.